Help! I sweat through my leather holster.

**Sgt.K** · June 5th, 2016, 08:21 PM

I’m gonna try to keep this short. I will fail. Sorry…

I carry a black (blued? non-stainless) Taurus PT1911 in a crossbreed/king tuk clone – of my own making – as my EDC. I have essentially used this same holster for 3 years now, replacing the shell once and the leather once. This holster – in its current form – has also been my exclusive holster for IDPA for over 2 years. Needless to say I am happy with it.

Enter the problem: sweat. I am a big fella, I’m always warm, and the leather against my skin has darkened over time from dampness, but just on the skin side – which is not dyed, to prevent staining. I do *not* find the leather uncomfortable against my skin, which is good because I tuck my shirt over the gun at work and everything above the Fruit-of-the-Looms is in contact. The leather has always been dry by morning, so no harm no foul. Occasionally after a particularly warm and/or humid match I would notice just a hint of condensation on the slide of the match gun, which just wiped off, and I didn’t notice any condensation on the carry gun (match gun’s twin) when I got home.

Last weekend brought a change. Saturday’s match was hot, long (6+ hours), and brutally humid. To say there was sweating would be a gross understatement. The leather was wet through. In my squad of ~15 I shot last on the last stage as I had shot first on the prior stage. This resulted in easily a 40-minute wait between draws. When I drew to load for the final stage I noticed increased resistance coming out of the holster, and a significant orange haze on the slide – the gun had actually rusted to the leather. I wiped it off before the drive home and – as expected – spent a good 15-20 minutes with CLP and brass brush before no more rust would come off. The carry gun, which was in the holster for less than 45 minutes before I got home, also wound up with a light haze, but it was due for a full cleaning anyway. The leather took until some time mid-day Monday to dry. It salt-stained through the black dye on the outside of the leather, and the area of the leather that contacts the slide is now dye-free and scuffed, suggesting it peeled off with the rusty gun. It still draws OK, though it doesn’t *quite* have that satisfying ‘snick’ that it used to when sliding home.

Yesterday’s match was shorter, and *slightly* less hot and humid, but I sweat through the leather again. The match gun went in the bag rusty and I holstered the carry gun for the 2-hour drive home. As soon as I got home I got the mower out and did the entire lawn – another hour plus – because I wasn’t going back out once I got inside. Carry gun now looks like match gun did last week. It’s also been 28 hours and the leather is not quite dry yet.

Here’s where I ask for suggestions, but first my conditions:

Don’t recommend some other leather, hybrid, or all-kydex holster. This design fits, works, and does everything I want. I just need to deal with sweating through the leather.
I still want leather, so N82 or similar is also out.
Coating/refinishing the gun(s) would stop the rusting (and may happen at some point), but would not solve the underlying problem. I want to solve the problem.

Now, I will probably need to replace the leather.

I have read that horsehide is more moisture resistant. I have also read that it’s not. Thoughts?
Resolene has been mentioned as a dressing/coating. Anyone have any experience?
Some retail/custom holster makers mention using some kind of membrane between other holster layers. Anyone have any suggestions for a membrane material (e.g. Gore-Tex)?
I read one account where someone rubber-cemented 2 layers of leather together and soaked one without the other showing anything. Thoughts?
Ideally, any dressing/coating will not soften the leather, so mink oil and its ilk are out. They should also not stain clothing, as I tuck my shirt behind the holster when not at work.
Neutral Kiwi shoe polish?
Other??

What do y’all think?

Thanks.

**danhr** · June 5th, 2016, 08:43 PM

I run horsehide on my crossbreed iwb holster. I am a fellow big man( 6' 280 lbs), and I got the horsehide for that reason. I carried it daily for two years before switching to another holster. I cleaned and conditioner it once wiyh saddle soap and neetsoil. Neither of my blocks, which were used in said holster, never got a spec of rust.

**philadelphia patriot** · June 5th, 2016, 08:56 PM

I love my Foxx Holsters IWB Hybrid Horsehide holster. I haven't worn it in the middle of July and August yet, but it is very comfortable, and I haven't sweated through the leather yet. $57 shipped doesn't break the bank either.

**comsubin61** · June 5th, 2016, 10:37 PM

I have a friend of mine that has the same problem. I am going to tell you what he did but I don't know if it is a good thing or not. He bought a can of that sealant that they use to sell on tv, I don't remember the name proper but they showed them spraying the side of a door and them use the door as a boat. I think it comes in black and white. Anyway he sprayed the back of the holster with it and never looked back. Apparently it really works although it is not recommended for leather he used it.

Here I found the link: http://www.target.com/p/as-seen-on-t...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

**JenniferG** · June 6th, 2016, 12:27 AM

Remember that anything you put on the leather to seal/protect it is going to end up on your skin. On leather bicycle saddles there is a protectant that is sold by the manufacturer Brooks of England. It's called Proofide and it protects the leather from riders' sweaty behinds and wet weather. You can also try the untinted Kiwi shoe wax which many in the higher end bike riding community swear by.