S&W Model 66

[WWGunslinger]

I've read that this used to be a pretty damn good revolver back when it was in production. Do they hold up well? Like if I were to find one used somewhere, would it be a good purchase? Anything in particular that isn't good about them and you need to watch out for? Anyone know what the going rate would be for used model 66?

Also, what S&W revolver has replaced it? Is it just as good, better, or worse?

[brian]

stainless steel Kframe 38/357.
as with all old smiths, how well it held up depends how it was treated.
fed only mild 38s? but thrown behind the seat of pick up truck?
finish will be beat up, but mech it will be like new.
kept in a foam box and wiped down after every outing, but fed a diet of only super hot 357's every weekend? finish be like new, but the guts will be torn up more than the village whore's.
the K frame 357s do not like extended diets of really hot 357's. mild 357 loads, no problems. but not the frame to explore the upper realm or outter limits of the caliber.

value anywhere from $250-400.

good pistol.
i'm looking for it's brother, an m65 samething just with fixed sights.
have it's uncle, an m13. a great shooting piece.

[TonyF]

The 66 is the stainless version of the 19. Both are built on the "K" frame. many people, including Bill Jordan (of Border Patrol fame) preferred it to the larger "N" frame because it was smaller and lighter. But it didn't hold up well to a steady diet of .357 magnum ammo which is why, IIRC, S&W developed the "L" frame.

The "L" frame is slightly larger than the "K" frame but still not as large as the "N".

However, I wouldn't worry about the issue of durability. We're talking about a significant volume of rounds and regardless, revolvers can be re-built and re-timed.

I'm looking for a pristine condition Model 13 which is the blue counterpart to Brian's Model 65.

[brian]

I'm looking for a pristine condition Model 13 which is the blue counterpart to Brian's Model 65.

the 13 is a wonderful gun.
they are known for cracked forcing cones due to extended use of overly hot loads.


[hijack off/]

[highrider]

Hello. Here is a no-dash in excellent condition. It shoots great and I think it is one sweet looking revolver. I looked quite a while for a no-dash and finally paid $600 for this one. I guess this gun's value is whatever you are willing to pay for what you want. I may have got a better deal if I had continued to look and wait, but this was the gun I was looking for so I grabbed it. For me it was a good deal.

[highrider]

P.S. I believe the 66 was replaced by the 686.

[WWGunslinger]

Whats considered a hot load? I would most likely just be using factory .38 and .357 magnum ammo if I did get one.

[TonyF]

Whats considered a hot load? I would most likely just be using factory .38 and .357 magnum ammo if I did get one.

Back in the day, handloaders used to push load development to near maximum safe pressure limits. If you're going to be shooting allot of factory .357 ammo, the "L" frame (686) might be a better choice.

[TonyF]

Hello. Here is a no-dash in excellent condition. It shoots great and I think it is one sweet looking revolver. I looked quite a while for a no-dash and finally paid $600 for this one. I guess this gun's value is whatever you are willing to pay for what you want. I may have got a better deal if I had continued to look and wait, but this was the gun I was looking for so I grabbed it. For me it was a good deal.

That is nice.

[brian]

in a nutshell.
i was told over at the smith board, that prolonged use of fast loads with bullet weights of less than 140g, would prematurily wear the gun.
i reload, so i use 158g cast lead bullets loaded to about middle of the road pressures....which are lower yet than jacketed bullet pressures.