Stuck 870 stock screw - Need help/advise

[LostinGermany]

I'm having a lot of trouble removing the stock on my 870 wingmaster, the screw is locked up. I broke two screw drivers (spinning in the handle, and then snapped a piece off another flat head).

I left some oil in the back of the stock to try and loosen it up but after a few days it hasn't moved at all. I also tried a small amount of solvant but it hasn't helped. I know its passing by the screw because it is collecting in a paper towel I shoved in the receiver. To make matters worse there is just enough wear on the screw head that I'm worried about stripping it if I try too many more "muscle it into submission" techniques.

I would like to keep the wood stock and not destroy it so I'm hoping for some magic from you guys. Is there a compound or tool that some one recommends? My one friend suggested liquid wrench but hes not a gun guy so I want to double check.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[bluetrane2028]

Sounds like the steel screw and the steel reciever rusted together. I'm not a gunsmith, but in my experience removing rusted bolts in cars and whatnot, you'll need a good solvent penetrating oil like P-Blaster and probably a torch to heat up the reciever itself. Sounds risky with the wood and all. Try P-Blaster alone first, let it soak for a solid day or two.

[firebird.77]

I have had good results with PB Blaster and CLP Breakfree. Another good penetrating oil is mineral spirits and ATF mixed 50/50, or ATF alone.


Spray it down there, let it soak and try again.

[Hawk]

Disassemble the barrel, trigger assembly, and action. You should be able to see the bolt/nut on the back of the receiver. You can then assess the issue better and apply a penetrating oil directly to the bolt/nut.
If needed, you can apply heat directly to it from there also.

[GunLawyer001]

Disassemble the barrel, trigger assembly, and action. You should be able to see the bolt/nut on the back of the receiver. You can then assess the issue better and apply a penetrating oil directly to the bolt/nut.
If needed, you can apply heat directly to it from there also.

The little trunnion that the stock bolt threads into, is a replaceable part. It's #24 in this diagram, about an inch long and threaded male at one end, female at the other.

Just in case the removal process gets really enthused, you can sacrifice that part and replace it for a few bucks.
http://lapetoire.free.fr/public/mod%...gton%20870.jpg

[LostinGermany]

Thanks guys. I'll pick up some PB Penetrating Catalyst and see how that works. I found a giant flat head screw driver at work and might pick up a strap wrench for extra torque.

Hawk - I've had this thing all apart across my dining room table for a week, the little lady is none too happy haha. I'll try and apply some more oil from the receiver side tonight.

Thanks GunLawyer001, hope it doesn't get to that point or how I'll end up cutting/breaking that part but it's still good info.

[Mil]

Thanks guys. I'll pick up some PB Penetrating Catalyst and see how that works. I found a giant flat head screw driver at work and might pick up a strap wrench for extra torque.

Hawk - I've had this thing all apart across my dining room table for a week, the little lady is none too happy haha. I'll try and apply some more oil from the receiver side tonight.

Thanks GunLawyer001, hope it doesn't get to that point or how I'll end up cutting/breaking that part but it's still good info.

Also, as stated earlier(the heat part), Ive never had mine stripped down that far but you could apply heat via the screw with a soldering iron.............if its possible to reach through the receiver.

[762xIan]

You have probably reached the point where you need to "remove the guts" from your shotgun to expose the inside of where the screw threads in.

If you can see it I would apply Kroil (the oil that creeps) to the area and let it sit for a day. This is exactly what Kroil is used for, getting into threads on bolts.

Then you get yourself a hollow ground screwdriver (or tip) that properly fits the slots on the head so it won't slip. Pointed screwdrivers don't work and should be kept away from guns screws.

Ive never had mine stripped down that far but you could apply heat via the screw with a soldering iron

I have used the soldering iron method before and it does work (on small screws anyway), hopefully there is enough room to get in there with it. Possibly also one of those little micro torches. Sometimes a little heat a little Kroil and some torque will do it.

[sinkrun]

I will try to explain this correctly. Use a screwdriver bit that fits on a 3/8 drive ratchet not sure who all has them mines snap on, sears may have them. Use a extension to get down in and instead of using a ratchet they make a tool about the size of 2 c batteries cant remember the name harbor freight has them maybe just called a impact driver. You smack it with a hammer and it will turn as you hit it. They are great for this just have some one hold the gun while you do it. One thing you may want to try is a good smack without all of the above with a steel rod this sometimes will loosen rusted bolts. Also keep soaking it with PB blaster or the like it does help.

[Lycanthrope]

Apply heat.

Lycanmechanicssonthrope