Problem zeroing my A2 w/ carry handle

[556slinger]

I was told there is a way to zero in your carry handle at 100 yards but can't find any information on how to. I followed the R.I.B.Z. method but now I have no idea where my POI is and kentucky windage isn't working due to the wet back stop. I had it supposedly zeroed at 300 but my range is only 100 and i hate guessing POA. I hate hearing "if it is zeroed at 300 aim x" high/low to hit the x" my range is only 100 yards and it would be nice to be zeroed at 100.

I need to be zeroed at 100, ammo is to expensive to be guessing all of the time and my eye sight isn't that good anymore so you guys may be able to aim at the X but i have to aim dead centerof the target so you see guessing will not work to well for me.

[Shawn.L]

take off your complete upper.

lay it on a flat table at the range (they have bench rests?)

look down your bore and line it up with the target so that without touching or moving the upper the target is dead center when you look down the barrel

adjust sights to target from same position

when you lay the upper on the table you should be able to look through the barrel and see the target then move your head up and look through the sites and see your site picture.

its now gonna be close enough to be on paper at 100 and you can fine tune it with a few shots

[Kaos]

take off your complete upper.

lay it on a flat table at the range (they have bench rests?)

look down your bore and line it up with the target so that without touching or moving the upper the target is dead center when you look down the barrel

adjust sights to target from same position

when you lay the upper on the table you should be able to look through the barrel and see the target then move your head up and look through the sites and see your site picture.

its now gonna be close enough to be on paper at 100 and you can fine tune it with a few shots

That's a good method if it's never been sighted before, has worked for me in the past.

There's another method called the "improved battle sight zero" that's done @ 50 yards and works pretty well @ 100 and 200 for COM shots. Googling it should turn up a link to a maryland shooters sight with decent instructions.

[ungawa]

You could also zero at 25 or 27 yards and then move out to 100. If you don't hit paper at 27 yards then something is seriously wrong. I would use 2 shot groups at 27 yards since you expect to do your real zeroing at 100.

[556slinger]

If you don't hit paper at 27 yards then something is seriously wrong. .

i'd say lol

[556slinger]

That's a good method if it's never been sighted before, has worked for me in the past.

There's another method called the "improved battle sight zero" that's done @ 50 yards and works pretty well @ 100 and 200 for COM shots. Googling it should turn up a link to a maryland shooters sight with decent instructions.

the RIBZ is the revised IBZ and allows your 6/3 setting to be your 100 yard zero setting and 4 clicks to the left gets you zeroed at 300. I must have did something wrong or something.

[TonyF]

Take Kaos' advice and zero for 50 yards. This is what we teach in our courses.

To get started, adjust your rear sight elevation wheel to 8/3 and adjust the front sight so that the base of the post sits "flush" in the FSB.

Use the large aperture and shoot a group at 25 yards using POA/POI. Adjust your front sight so that your POI is about 1.25 inches low and then correct for windage. This should get you on paper at 50 yards.

Do not adjust windage and elevation at the same time.

Bear in mind the large and small apertures are not on the same plane so you will see a shift in POI if you switch to the small aperture.

Recommend the XS "same plane" rear sight assembly.

[ReconLdr]

Not too difficult, try doing a standard BZO. You can download and print the targets or make your own.


1. Put a 1" paster on a paper target at 25yds... adjust your sights to be on the paster at that range. Your rear sight elevation should be set to 8/3. Make all of your elevation adjustments with your front sight post for zero.
2. Go to the 100 yd range your point of impact should be 1 - 1.5" high. Make the addjustment on your rear sight elevation to get spot on. The value of each click is (IIRC) .5" per 100yds.

This method should have you on target at 100 yds in 12 rounds and reduce the amount of walking up and down range.

[556slinger]

Not too difficult, try doing a standard BZO. You can download and print the targets or make your own.


1. Put a 1" paster on a paper target at 25yds... adjust your sights to be on the paster at that range. Your rear sight elevation should be set to 8/3. Make all of your elevation adjustments with your front sight post for zero.
2. Go to the 100 yd range your point of impact should be 1 - 1.5" high. Make the addjustment on your rear sight elevation to get spot on. The value of each click is (IIRC) .5" per 100yds.

This method should have you on target at 100 yds in 12 rounds and reduce the amount of walking up and down range.

is the 8/3 and 6/3 settings the same? from what i've read on arfcom the standard a2 upper is marked 8/3 but detachables are marked 6/3 are they the same?

[TonyF]

is the 8/3 and 6/3 settings the same? from what i've read on arfcom the standard a2 upper is marked 8/3 but detachables are marked 6/3 are they the same?

8/3 is the setting for rifles (20 inch bbl).

6/3 is the setting for carbines (16 inch bbl).