AR Builder, chime in!

[Mity2]

I've dicided on which reciever to use, and I have few questions regarding rest of process.

I'm going to do this in several steps.
Do:
Lower(and partskit)
Then stock(adjustable M4 Socom ->http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=149181
then upper barrel - Have not picked which yet, But I want 24" heavy BBL with target crown with flat top and no front sight).

My question is is it better to buy upper as an assembry, or buy separate, like barrel kits, then upper, and put it together?
If you buy complete upper assembly, its basicaly you add your choice of bolt, charging handle, and drop it in to lower, and your done. Right?
But if I buy barrel and upper separate, then I'll have to buy other little things, and ultimatly cost more?

Sorry for newb Q's as I want to figure all these out before i start ordering stuff...

I'd appriciate any input!

[Karys]

My question is is it better to buy upper as an assembry, or buy separate, like barrel kits, then upper, and put it together?!

I've built two AR lowers and mated them to uppers that I bought complete. It's not hard to put an upper together. For me it would come down to how much cost savings there would be in assembling both receivers.

If you buy complete upper assembly, its basicaly you add your choice of bolt, charging handle, and drop it in to lower, and your done. Right?

You have some choices here. You could buy a complete upper with bolt, carrier, charging handle, forward assist and ejection port door already installed and just slap it on your lower and you're done. You could buy a partially assembled upper with the forward assist and ejection port door installed and then add your own bolt and carrier. Finally, you could buy an upper that is 100% stripped and assemble everything yourself.

But if I buy barrel and upper separate, then I'll have to buy other little things, and ultimatly cost more?

Maybe, maybe not. It depends on what parts you're buying and from where. From everything I've heard and read, it's best not to mix and match parts, ie. if you're going to use an RRA upper, you should use RRA parts and an RRA bolt and carrier. Using upper parts from different manufacturers seems to cause relability problems. I'm not saying you can't do it and surely there are frankenguns out there that are 100% reliable, but generally it's better to keep all the parts from the same manufacturer.

Sorry for newb Q's as I want to figure all these out before i start ordering stuff...

Not a problem. Everybody who builds AR's at one time knew nothing about them. You've got to learn somehow. Hell, I'm still learning myself. I just hope I helped you some.

[NorwichGrad97]

There are a lot of complete uppers that will satisfy your needs. I would say get a complete upper.

[danws2]

What is your intended use?

[Mity2]

What is your intended use?

tac driver @100yds, 2~3"group @ 200yds I'm thinking.
And my budget is about $1000~$1100

[Lycanthrope]

tac driver @100yds, 2~3"group @ 200yds I'm thinking.
And my budget is about $1000~$1100

Tack driver/2-3" group at 200? Most any floated varmint barrel will do that with ease with handloads.

MOST of your accuracy from the AR is coming from your barrel quality and just free floating it.

A decent Krieger, Pac Nor, White Oak or Compass lake barrel will do sub moa easily all day long.

[Mity2]

thats what Ilike to hear. I know what i want, but I'm not at the point to worry about which barrel/manufacture I want to go with.

Get lower and parts(with 2stg match trigger) and stock. Then I'll take it from there

[Lycanthrope]

You can build a decent upper to do sub moa for about $550-$600.

If you want guns that shoot tighter.......

White Oak Precision will build you a world beater with top Krieger barrel for $940.



White Oak Armament will do the same with a Compass lake cut wilson barrel for $672. They still shoot sub moa.



The Clark Gator is guaranteed .5 moa for $945.



Lycanoptionsthrope