I'm curious as well, hell if I remember the last time oaks let people in, what exactly did they say that was bullshit? I have talked to them myself several times and never had that experience not once.
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Yea.... what were they saying.... there are plenty of other vendors you are correct, but none that have done it as long as we have. Also, we haven't raised our pricing at all. Our cost has gone up but I don't want to gouge my customers, or even make it look like we are doing that. I would love to hear what JSD Supply (i own it, and am personally at every oaks show) was saying that wasn't true.
You can feel free to send me a DM or email me directly at dealer@jsdsupply.com and I'll be more than happy to discuss whatever it is you think I told a customer.
My build kit arrived today. Not sure if I'll fire up the mill (and hand drill, as stressed in the build directions) until this weekend, though.
I used a drill press for holes on mine and a cross vise for the rails. In my opinion the hardest spot is the piece where the barrel drops in. I used some wire cutters to cut a V pattern in it. After that I just used an exacto knife and mini torch to heat it. Pretty much peeled it away in no time then finish off with some find sandpaper to clean it up.
Guitar fret cutter (straight) helps on the side portion, from what I hear.
I just finished my poly 80%er, I used a pair of tile nipps to get the top sections off then used a small file to even it out to the frame. as for the front section, i just used a small round file...Attachment 141293Attachment 141294
I just finished the machining on the 1st gen full size frame. I had read that the rail cuts were not deep enough, even when you kiss the end mill right up to the jig.... and those reports are 100% correct. Even touching off on the top of the jig, I'm left with a rail "neck width" which is at least .030" too narrow for the slide rail throat. I could put it back in the jig, mill off .015" from each side of the jig, and then re-cut using the supplied tool, but instead I think I'll just go at it with a needle file (which I don't currently own). I'll head off to Ace tomorrow to see if they have anything that works.
Meh, I couldn't wait so I threw it back on the mill and cut the rail slots .015" deeper per side. Still very tight, but at least it slides on. Files should clean it up nicely.
I was working on making room for the slide spring and trying to set up that floor area nice and smooth. Well, I only could go so far with the Dremel. I cut a bit of length off a wooden pencil, wrapped 600 sandpaper tightly around the tip of the eraser end and taped in place. Then, I put the opposite end in a cordless drill. Gave me enough length to get where it needed to be and worked slow enough to avoid a problem.