Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Qtrborecrazy
Walleye, go to Nosler website and they have info for the powders you mention and data for the 200, 225. How far you plan on shooting that 338?
That Nosler data should be in the one load, one book spiral bound manual he has but I'd get a few others to cross reference
I have Speer, Sierra, Nosler and Berger along with the one caliber, one book..
Also, once you start shooting, the brass will stretch so look into a neck sizer die and figure out what you might do to headspace your brass. Bumping the shoulder back a couple thousandths every few loadings can extent the life of the brass.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
I never loaded a .338 mag but here are some random thoughts.
You need Magnum primers for all loads.
IMR and H 4831 are close but have always been different powders. You will have to work up a max load separately.
4831 looks like cut up pencil lead and doesn't meter well. And its scary when you hear the powder crunch when you force it. For precision loads you will have to weigh each charge and top it off with a powder trickler. And for max charges you will need a drop tube to get all of the powder to fit in the case. With a ball powder like W760 you don't have to do anything. Just meter it out and load.
You want to use the same lots or you have to back off a little and work back up with a new lot.
There are 7000 grains in a pound of powder.
And you will need a chrony if you are going for max velocity.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
27hand
That Nosler data should be in the one load, one book spiral bound manual he has but I'd get a few others to cross reference
I have Speer, Sierra, Nosler and Berger along with the one caliber, one book..
Also, once you start shooting, the brass will stretch so look into a neck sizer die and figure out what you might do to headspace your brass. Bumping the shoulder back a couple thousandths every few loadings can extent the life of the brass.
Is neck sizing not part of the sizer/deprimer? Oh, and what about annealing? I've heard yeses and no's on doing that with this brass.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Walleye Hunter
Is neck sizing not part of the sizer/deprimer? Oh, and what about annealing? I've heard yeses and no's on doing that with this brass.
Neck sizing.
When you fire your new brass / powder / bullet combo, the case forms to the chamber ( fire formed).
A full length resizing die will decap and resize the case back to its original dimensions which work hardens the brass. You are stretching it when you fire it. The die is squeezing it back quite a bit more than necessary to fit your specific guns chamber.
A dedicated " neck sizing " die decaps but only resizes the neck thereby not sqeezing the brass body excessively.
The shoulder ( leade) moves forward with each firing until it reaches a point within the chamber it can travel no further.
If you don't bump the shoulder back a couple thousandths every few firings, the round will become more difficult to close the bolt.
Neck sizing only can give you a more accurate load since the case doesn't stretch as much each time you fire it.
Get a good manual and read thru the process.
We can all give you information ( sometimes a bit differently depending on how we do it).
Google neck sizing. Google bumping the shoulder back.
Google full length resizing vs neck sizing.
Your gun may not shoot your combination to your expectations.
Changing components until it does can take some time.
Annealing. I haven't done it yet and can also extend the life of your brass BUT you can ruin the brass if not done correctly ( over heating / softening).
Google annealing.
All that Google Foo. Get some manuals. Instead of watching porn, read and study the process.
The more you do it, the more comfortable it'll become.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
27hand
Neck sizing.
When you fire your new brass / powder / bullet combo, the case forms to the chamber ( fire formed).
A full length resizing die will decap and resize the case back to its original dimensions which work hardens the brass. You are stretching it when you fire it. The die is squeezing it back quite a bit more than necessary to fit your specific guns chamber.
A dedicated " neck sizing " die decaps but only resizes the neck thereby not sqeezing the brass body excessively.
The shoulder ( leade) moves forward with each firing until it reaches a point within the chamber it can travel no further.
If you don't bump the shoulder back a couple thousandths every few firings, the round will become more difficult to close the bolt.
Neck sizing only can give you a more accurate load since the case doesn't stretch as much each time you fire it.
Get a good manual and read thru the process.
We can all give you information ( sometimes a bit differently depending on how we do it).
Google neck sizing. Google bumping the shoulder back.
Google full length resizing vs neck sizing.
Your gun may not shoot your combination to your expectations.
Changing components until it does can take some time.
Annealing. I haven't done it yet and can also extend the life of your brass BUT you can ruin the brass if not done correctly ( over heating / softening).
Google annealing.
All that Google Foo. Get some manuals. Instead of watching porn, read and study the process.
The more you do it, the more comfortable it'll become.
X Hamster needs me. :cool: Can neck sizing only, be done with a full resizing die or does it take a completely different die? I do know what neck sizing only is. One guy recommended full sizing after 5 or so reloads. Oh, how do you keep track of how many times a shell has been reloaded?
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Walleye Hunter
X Hamster needs me. :cool: Can neck sizing only, be done with a full resizing die or does it take a completely different die? I do know what neck sizing only is. One guy recommended full sizing after 5 or so reloads. Oh, how do you keep track of how many times a shell has been reloaded?
Lee makes a collet die just for neck sizing without lube. I usually brush the inside of the neck to remove residue before running it thru the die.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Walleye Hunter
Is neck sizing not part of the sizer/deprimer? Oh, and what about annealing? I've heard yeses and no's on doing that with this brass.
FWIW in my experience. Neck sizers I have will deprime.
Over the years I've neck sized, full sized per instructions for the die, and partial sized backing off a full length die.
Others mileage may vary but I've settled on setting the full length sizer to bump the shoulders back .001 to a .002".
If you continually neck size somewhere down the line you'll need to fully size. An argument could be made this works the brass more.
You also have a belt on that case so check for any bulges above the belt if you loosely size.
I don't worry about annealing until I have to trim the case. If the shavings come off looking like a spring I consider them good. If they come off in chunks it's time to anneal. Topic for another thread how we all do it.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
I hate to be the one to say it but your asking some really basic questions for a high pressure rifle round reloading. You may be better off starting to reload some straight wall pistol stuff to get your bearings before going high pressure rifle rounds.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
Quote:
Originally Posted by
West Chester
I hate to be the one to say it but your asking some really basic questions for a high pressure rifle round reloading. You may be better off starting to reload some straight wall pistol stuff to get your bearings before going high pressure rifle rounds.
I'm already loading 9mm.
Re: Need Input for Building a Round
OK, I'm inching closer to trigger time. I've assembled three (3) specimens with a medium load and all are slightly less than max OAL. I loaded them on an RCBS single stage press and they are all within a couple of thousandths of each other. I would expect that the closer they are to each other in length, the better the accuracy. What it acceptable variation on this?