KIMBER-Grease and shockbuffs in 1911s

[randyreload]

I recently sent my SIS back to Kimber for a finish problem on the slide(which was superbly done).When I called them to see if it was done they told me that they had taken out the shockbuff and removed all signs of grease.They do not recomend using either.However Wilson Combat made the shockbuff and the Ultima Lube grease that I used.So did I waste my money on the buffs and Ultima lube or is this a trick Kimber uses to keep people from buying the Wilson products?I hve never had a malfuntion with either but I dissassemble and clean after every shooting session.I know that doesnt mean that a malfunction isnt going to happen but so far it hasnt for me.Maybe I shouldnt use these products on a gun I plan to carry?I havent used the stuff since but I sure miss my grease on the rails and locking lugs.

[BUCKMARK]

Some like shok buffs, some dont. I tried em, and have since quit.

Bottom line is, almost every gun company on the planet will remove aftermarket parts when you send a gun back. Question is IF you get those parts back in the end.

I sent a Glock back once and forgot to take out the Sherer #3.5 trigger connector. They put a factory one back in and sent the Sherer in a plastic bag. They also removed all of the parts I polished....made more work for me

If the gun wasnt designed to use something, they dont want you to...dosent mean you have to.

UNLESS...you run into one of a few companies that tell you that if you tighten one screw or look at your gun funny its no longer covered by the warrany. Kimber is not one of those companies.

[TonyF]

There are better lubricants than grease that "flow". Wilson's actually makes a very "syrup-ey" lubricant that is long lasting. It's what I use on my 1911's. Shock buffs are not recommended on a pistol to be used for self defense. They disintegrate toward the end of their life span and can fail unexpectedly and jam up your pistol.

If you feel compelled to protect your frame wear and tear, use one for practice but remove it before you use it for carry. However, using a shock buff can inhibit using the over hand technique to cycle your slide if the tolerances of your frame's dust cover are below nominal.

This is the reason they are not recommended even for practice because you won't be able to properly practice malfunction clearance drills.

My advice is don't use grease and don't use shock buffs.

[hzox221]

I use both.

I run grease from April until October and a heavy weight oil the rest of the time. I extreme cold, certain grease will get real heavy and slow down the cycling of the slide.

I run a buff in all of my 1911's and 2011's. I actually run two buffs and a shortened spring in both my USPSA Limited guns.

I have never had an issue with a buff causing any malfunction in over 150K rounds fired in these guns.

[Lycanthrope]

I never use grease. You never want friction.....just protection. You can achieve very high protection with today's lubes without the friction penalty of grease (although it makes the gun feel smooth to the hand).

Buffs are fine in some guns and not so good in others......although you can set a gun up to run them. If you bevel the inside of your slide and take off the sharp edge that hammers the buff, they will last for thousands of rounds. Wilson buffs are very soft and generally low quality in my opinion. CP buffs tend to take much more abuse in my guns.

Or you can use an aluminum buff.

LycansomanywaystoRomethrope

[randyreload]

Thanks for the inf.I think Ill just leave out the buffs and go with a thick oil.I also heard that shooters choice was a good oil.any suggestions?I dont see where it would back a difference if I just use Syntec 10W40 motor oil.If it protects an engine at 6000 rpm then why woudnt it protect a gun from wear?Oh the detergents in engine oil might be bad for the finish.Thinking outloud here

[synergy]

Thanks for the inf.I think Ill just leave out the buffs and go with a thick oil.I also heard that shooters choice was a good oil.any suggestions?I dont see where it would back a difference if I just use Syntec 10W40 motor oil.If it protects an engine at 6000 rpm then why woudnt it protect a gun from wear?Oh the detergents in engine oil might be bad for the finish.Thinking outloud here

Considering that thousands of people use CLP (which I would guess has some cleaners/ detergents in it)...I think we'll be ok.

I've used synthetic motor oils in everything from tight tight tight 1911's, a S&W 952, Glocks, AR's, Sigs, XD's, MP5's...everything. As a lube, it stays in place very well, and lasts longer than thinner oils. It seems to keep guns running longer than either Hoppe's or CLP, in my experience.

I use RemOil to clean, and Eezox to protect the finish. I like thick oils for lube, though.

[randyreload]

Ive spent so many thousand doollars on these 1911s i was just trying find some cheaper ways of maintenance.I can get a whole quart of motor oil for 5 buck vs 7 bucks for 2oz of leading brand gun lubricant

[TonyF]

Ive spent so many thousand doollars on these 1911s i was just trying find some cheaper ways of maintenance.I can get a whole quart of motor oil for 5 buck vs 7 bucks for 2oz of leading brand gun lubricant

Some say Automatic Transmission Fluid is even better than the best synthetic oils.

[randyreload]

i think everyone knows transmission fluid contains red dye.i dont think i would put that on a blued finish or parkerized either