AR-15 flash suppressor removal

**pdelcasino** · April 2nd, 2010, 03:21 PM

I have an LMT piston SBR with the standard A2 flash suppressor. I'm swapping it out for a dedicated muzzle brake. How do I go about removing the A2?

I don't think it's pinned or welded in place, I don't see any solder. I've read some people saying it needs to be heated, then put in a vice and whatnot and other people saying they wrapped a piece of leather around it and used a wrench, and other people saying I need special tools so I don't twist the barrel out of alignment.

Any help would be appreciated.

**TommyG** · April 2nd, 2010, 05:23 PM

Originally Posted by pdelcasino

I have an LMT piston SBR with the standard A2 flash suppressor. I'm swapping it out for a dedicated muzzle brake. How do I go about removing the A2?

I don't think it's pinned or welded in place, I don't see any solder. I've read some people saying it needs to be heated, then put in a vice and whatnot and other people saying they wrapped a piece of leather around it and used a wrench, and other people saying I need special tools so I don't twist the barrel out of alignment.

Any help would be appreciated.

3/4" Craftsman Wrench will get the job done. The open end wrench will fit tightly on the flat portions of the flash hider back by the crush washer. If it is not permanently attached it should not be torqued so tight that it would foul up the barrel alignment. If it really fights you, you might need to resort to a little heat but I have not run across one that tight.

**pdelcasino** · April 2nd, 2010, 07:58 PM

Would a crescent wrench do? I'm having trouble bracing the gun to apply enough torque.

If the suppressor has some locktite or something similar on it, how much heat do I need to apply? Like would a cigarette lighter be enough, or would I need to heat it for a long time?

The only thing I've heated to release it up to this point was a stuck bike pedal.

**Xringshooter** · April 2nd, 2010, 08:18 PM

The barrel really needs to be put in a vise so that you can get enough torque on the flash supressor to unseat it. You can use two blocks of wood with a groove down the middle so that it will grip the barrel along a longer length of it. The put the barrel between the woods blocks in the vise and tighten it down. If all you have is a cresent wrench, that should suffice. If it's a fairly short handled one, you may need to put something on the handle (cheater bar) to give you more twisting power.

**he11zna** · April 2nd, 2010, 08:32 PM

With an AR armorer's wrench, I've always been able to take it off without a vise.
Rifle under left arm, FSB in left hand and and giving it hell with my right hand.
Not the easiest and requires a grip of steel, but without bench tools, it worked.

Now getting the hider/break timed properly is another story...

**pdelcasino** · April 3rd, 2010, 07:41 PM

Thanks for the ideas, I got it off without a problem.

**Ricochet** · April 4th, 2010, 12:10 AM

Originally Posted by Xringshooter

The barrel really needs to be put in a vise so that you can get enough torque on the flash supressor to unseat it..

I agree.
Also, make sure your front sight post isn't in the vice. You can actually cause it to slide over a but if you are really putting some muscle in getting the FH off.

Just be sire its nothing bu barrel in the vice.