$375 Garands, to CMP, to PSLs, to Yugo AKs. ADD Hijack Warning

[crlovel]

South Korean imports, they're used, dirty, non-matching numbers, stocks need finishing, a good cleaning, maybe re-blueing, but, they're Springfield M1 Garands! I'm picking mine up tomorrow from Surplus City in Southampton. Get them while you can!

[knight0334]

crap!! where can I find one in central PA??

[crlovel]

crap!! where can I find one in central PA??

You can't. They don't allow $375 Garands into central PA. They're reserved for US, over here in the east side!

Seriously, no idea. I'm sure someone, somewhere, will have them? Likely Dunhams, they seem to get a lot of Century stuff.

Oh yeah, these Garands were imported by Century. Thank Gods their trained monkeys didn't have to build them, though.

[knight0334]

You can't. They don't allow $375 Garands into central PA. They're reserved for US, over here in the east side!

Seriously, no idea. I'm sure someone, somewhere, will have them? Likely Dunhams, they seem to get a lot of Century stuff.

Oh yeah, these Garands were imported by Century. Thank Gods their trained monkeys didn't have to build them, though.

Thats OK then... You guys are stuck with Philly. lol


I'll be sure to check Dunhams more often in the near future. Thanks!

[clarion44]

WHAT!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

I just crapped myself. I'm stuck in Williamsport (middle of nowhere!). I'm off at 7am and have the next two days off. I might have to go for a drive/make some phone calls. Even if they are alil beat up, thats sounds great. Hope they are somewhat decent.

Thanks for the headup!

Let us know how they are. I'd be willing to drive down thatt way.

[Noah_Zark]

If considering one of these <$400 ex-Korean, ex-USGI Garands, do yourself a favor and take along a loaded 30-06 cartridge and insert the bullet end of the cartridge into the muzzle of the rifle(s). If there's less than 3/16" of bullet showing between the muzzle and the cartridge case mouth, or ESPECIALLY if the bullet completely disappears into the muzzle and the case mouth stops against the crown, I'd recommend moving on to the next rifle in the rack. Unless of course you want to spend another $200-$350 to purchase and install a new barrel.

Twist the sight adjusting knobs and if any rifle exhibits sight knobs that are easily adjusted without sharp, distinct clicks use a screwdriver to just slightly tighten the slotted screw in the one knob and try again. If the knobs still move without much of a detent, reject that particular weapon.

While on sights, if the rear sight leaf wobbles from side to side at all, the rifle may need a new rear sight cover at best, or the rear leaf guide ways are worn at worst.

Holding the weapon with the right hand on the stock wrist and at a 45 degree angle upward and to the left, reach under the weapon and hook the left thumb on the op rod handle and vigorously haul back on the op rod. You should hear a "latch" sound and the bolt and op rod should be latched to the rear. The lower edge of the bolt should NOT be contacting the rear end of the follower. If it is, haul back on the op rod handle until the bolt is latched rearward and NOT contacting the follower. If this latching action does not happen, and the bolt moves forward to contact the follower, BE CAREFUL because the bolt could slam into battery at any moment. The failure to latch indicates a major issue with the op rod, op rod catch, and possibly the clip release spring. You'll probably need some replacement parts.

To release the op rod and bolt, brace the butt against the front of your right thigh and haul back on the op rod with the right thumb. Holding the op rod handle back, press slightly down on the cartridge follower with the left thumb, and EASE the op rod handle forward over the follower. REMOVE YOUR LEFT THUMB and contunue to control the op rod handle to allow the bolt to travel forward into battery. Engage the safety lever by pressing the forward edge of it to the rear towards the trigger guard and into the TG. The safety should "snap" into the safe position with a distinct detent. Push the safety forward to the "fire" position and note if the hammer falls. If the hammer does not fall, point the weapon in a safe direction and pull the trigger to release the hammer and test the FCG.

Also, don't be surprised if some of the bores are dark or pitted. The Koreans used corrosively-primed ammunition for a time, and sold much of it as surplus which found its way here. The "KA" headstamped M2 Ball is the corrosive stuff. The "PS" headstamp is on the non-corrosive ammo.

Finally, expect to need some replacement parts of some description. These <$400 Garands may or may not end up being a $600 or $800 Garand by the time everything is said and done.

Good luck hunting!

Noah

[thebearpack]

Since we're talking a little over $400 after tax for these imports, keep in mind that for around $100 more you can get a Field Grade Springfield M1 delivered to your door from the CMP. At least with them if you should get a lemon (highly unlikely) they'll typically do whatever is necessary to make you happy.

[NikeBauer21]

Since we're talking a little over $400 after tax for these imports, keep in mind that for around $100 more you can get a Field Grade Springfield M1 delivered to your door from the CMP. At least with them if you should get a lemon (highly unlikely) they'll typically do whatever is necessary to make you happy.

I tend to agree. CMP is a more reliable company for quality management than imports such as this will be, most likely.

[Kramer]

If considering one of these <$400 ex-Korean, ex-USGI Garands, do yourself a favor and take along a loaded 30-06 cartridge and insert the bullet end of the cartridge into the muzzle of the rifle(s). If there's less than 3/16" of bullet showing between the muzzle and the cartridge case mouth, or ESPECIALLY if the bullet completely disappears into the muzzle and the case mouth stops against the crown, I'd recommend moving on to the next rifle in the rack. Unless of course you want to spend another $200-$350 to purchase and install a new barrel.

Twist the sight adjusting knobs and if any rifle exhibits sight knobs that are easily adjusted without sharp, distinct clicks use a screwdriver to just slightly tighten the slotted screw in the one knob and try again. If the knobs still move without much of a detent, reject that particular weapon.

While on sights, if the rear sight leaf wobbles from side to side at all, the rifle may need a new rear sight cover at best, or the rear leaf guide ways are worn at worst.

Holding the weapon with the right hand on the stock wrist and at a 45 degree angle upward and to the left, reach under the weapon and hook the left thumb on the op rod handle and vigorously haul back on the op rod. You should hear a "latch" sound and the bolt and op rod should be latched to the rear. The lower edge of the bolt should NOT be contacting the rear end of the follower. If it is, haul back on the op rod handle until the bolt is latched rearward and NOT contacting the follower. If this latching action does not happen, and the bolt moves forward to contact the follower, BE CAREFUL because the bolt could slam into battery at any moment. The failure to latch indicates a major issue with the op rod, op rod catch, and possibly the clip release spring. You'll probably need some replacement parts.

To release the op rod and bolt, brace the butt against the front of your right thigh and haul back on the op rod with the right thumb. Holding the op rod handle back, press slightly down on the cartridge follower with the left thumb, and EASE the op rod handle forward over the follower. REMOVE YOUR LEFT THUMB and contunue to control the op rod handle to allow the bolt to travel forward into battery. Engage the safety lever by pressing the forward edge of it to the rear towards the trigger guard and into the TG. The safety should "snap" into the safe position with a distinct detent. Push the safety forward to the "fire" position and note if the hammer falls. If the hammer does not fall, point the weapon in a safe direction and pull the trigger to release the hammer and test the FCG.

Also, don't be surprised if some of the bores are dark or pitted. The Koreans used corrosively-primed ammunition for a time, and sold much of it as surplus which found its way here. The "KA" headstamped M2 Ball is the corrosive stuff. The "PS" headstamp is on the non-corrosive ammo.

Finally, expect to need some replacement parts of some description. These <$400 Garands may or may not end up being a $600 or $800 Garand by the time everything is said and done.

Good luck hunting!

Noah

Good post Noah, I would rep you but my rep button is broke. BTW these rifles bring back memories of the Blue Sky junk that came into the states from Korea back in the 1980s.

[NikeBauer21]

Good post Noah, I would rep you but my rep button is broke. BTW these rifles bring back memories of the Blue Sky junk that came into the states from Korea back in the 1980s.

I got him for you.

Very good points Noah...