Bulged 9mm brass

[afrattner]

One of my mates gave me a 1kg bag once fired 9mm brass, so i put the lot thru the tumbler. So i start to resize+punch out and as its resizing its getting jammed just above the base of the round.

Im thinking this is all because of his (Glock 17A) chamber that the round has been fired in.

So is there anyway fix this, like putting the rounds in super hot boiling water to make the rounds more plyable????????


Got told by a "glock hatter" at the range, "thats what get for using glocks" lol.

[hornady]

I ran into this problem with 40 S&W Glock Brass. But have never heard of the 9MM causing anyone a problem. But then a lot of guys never had a problem with the 40. I don’t think you can get the brass hot enough in water. to Anneal it. I would try a cookie sheet and put them in the over. How ever if you know your sizer is Carbide. It may be a better idea to look into a Lee sizer. They are cheap, And seem to work better on Bulged brass. Redding and Lee both make a Die for the Bulged Brass. Redding is the G-RX Base Die. Lee calls theirs the Bulge Buster. But I think both are only made in 40 S&W.

[Philadelphia]

One of my mates gave me a 1kg bag once fired 9mm brass, so i put the lot thru the tumbler. So i start to resize+punch out and as its resizing its getting jammed just above the base of the round.

Im thinking this is all because of his (Glock 17A) chamber that the round has been fired in.

So is there anyway fix this, like putting the rounds in super hot boiling water to make the rounds more plyable????????


Got told by a "glock hatter" at the range, "thats what get for using glocks" lol.

You sure it was only once fired? My first thought was somebody tried to shoot major 9 out of a glock.

Definitely don't try to anneal the case head. Case head is supposed to be hard. I've seen tests of shots fired out of completely annealed brass and it looks very bad -- ripe for "super face" type event.

9mm brass is not hard to come by. If it's buldged I would be very strongly inclined to crush it and toss it to the recycler. 9mm is a relatively high pressure round and vaporized brass in the face would definitely hurt. Everybody seems to be totally OK with "glocked" .40 brass. I don't understand that either.

[max384]

One of my mates gave me a 1kg bag once fired 9mm brass, so i put the lot thru the tumbler. So i start to resize+punch out and as its resizing its getting jammed just above the base of the round.

Im thinking this is all because of his (Glock 17A) chamber that the round has been fired in.

So is there anyway fix this, like putting the rounds in super hot boiling water to make the rounds more plyable????????


Got told by a "glock hatter" at the range, "thats what get for using glocks" lol.

They are getting jammed going into the sizer, not out, correct? What type of dies are you using? Are they steel? If so, your cases need to be lubed. Even if they are carbide, some case lube wouldn't hurt. Are you definitely using the correct dies? If, for example, you used .380 dies for 9mm and had the die turned in enough to completely resize, your case would run out of room and get jammed (I'd assume, I've never tried this ). I've had no problem resizing loads fired from a glock in several calibers, including 9mm.

Don't put your cases in the oven. Bad idea.

[hornady]

Two things seem odd about your post. One Most reloading Manuals will Recommend Annealing work hardened Brass. As repeated Sizing Hardens the Brass to the point it becomes brittle. For years experienced reloaders have been Annealing Wild cat cases.. I will agree 9MM here in the US are abundant. How ever the poster is from Australia. The second contention as to the 40 S&W Brass. You may not have a problem with it. But some do. There are thousands of Web pages about just this. Also. How and why did Redding and Lee Develop and Sell a Die made specifically for this problem if it did not exist.

[Philadelphia]

Two things seem odd about your post. One Most reloading Manuals will Recommend Annealing work hardened Brass. As repeated Sizing Hardens the Brass to the point it becomes brittle. For years experienced reloaders have been Annealing Wild cat cases..

Yes, but only the case neck. Never the case head. Neck should be soft annealed brass. Case head should be hard, workhardened brass. Straight walled pistol cases should not need any annealing and with reasonable loads and careful procedures with belling can be reloaded hundreds of times without any problems. Rifle necks are more prone to split if worked several times but not annealed. To repeat: Do not anneal the case head.

I will agree 9MM here in the US are abundant. How ever the poster is from Australia. The second contention as to the 40 S&W Brass. You may not have a problem with it. But some do. There are thousands of Web pages about just this. Also. How and why did Redding and Lee Develop and Sell a Die made specifically for this problem if it did not exist.

The problem surely exists but I don't like a solution of accepting bulged brass and special dies to unbulge it and try to reuse it.

[Grumpa72]

I guess I am confused here. Isn't the resizing die supposed to take care of bulges? My Lee dies do. How about spraying a very tiny amount of case lube on the brass so that it will go into the sizing die easier? That is what I would try next. I figure if I can size a crushed 9mm case (just to see if it can be done) you should be able to size a bulged case.

[hornady]

Granted this is not true Annealing But many Believe Heating Brass in an oven extends the life of Brass. As pistol cases would be very difficult to Truly Anneal, And as the paragraph below I copied states. Temps up to 482 Degrees brass hardness is unaffected. At 495 Degrees there is a slight change in structure. But doesn’t change Base hardness. As an oven only reaches temps of 500 degrees Brass should not be effected. As to this being beneficial. That is to who you talk to.

The Art and Science of Annealing
Annealing Basics, Cartridge Metallurgy, and Automated Options


Optimal Case Temperatures for Successful Annealing

Brass is an excellent conductor of heat. A flame applied at any point on a case for a short time will cause the rest of the case to heat very quickly. There are several temperatures at which brass is affected. Also, the time the brass remains at a given temperature will have an effect. Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures (Fahrenheit) up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature. At about 495 degrees (F) some changes in grain structure begins to occur, although the brass remains about as hard as before--it would take a laboratory analysis to see the changes that take place at this temperature.

[Brick]

A bit more information might be in order to start answer these questions:

1. What dies are you using for resizing? Specifically brand and carbide yes or no.

2. Are your dies set for full length resizing or neck resizing? IIRC most carbide resizing dies do not full length resize even when set all the way down to the ram.

3. Have you considered using a Lee Factory Crimp Die? There is a type that has a carbide resizing ring built in specically to iron out the Glock bulge.

Last I can't think of a reason in the world to waste time & effort annealing pistol brass. I gave up reloading 9mm years ago, but I've reloaded many 10 of thousands rounds of .45 ACP, Some of my brass has been reloaded so many times you can't read the headstamp. I use until it cracks and then throw it away.

[afrattner]

A bit more information might be in order to start answer these questions:

1. What dies are you using for resizing? Specifically brand and carbide yes or no.

2. Are your dies set for full length resizing or neck resizing? IIRC most carbide resizing dies do not full length resize even when set all the way down to the ram.

3. Have you considered using a Lee Factory Crimp Die? There is a type that has a carbide resizing ring built in specically to iron out the Glock bulge.

Last I can't think of a reason in the world to waste time & effort annealing pistol brass. I gave up reloading 9mm years ago, but I've reloaded many 10 of thousands rounds of .45 ACP, Some of my brass has been reloaded so many times you can't read the headstamp. I use until it cracks and then throw it away.

1. Im using lee carbide dies, with lube

2. Im not sure, but when i resize brass that is shot from my glock 17A it resizes the full length.

3 Yes it has the r/ring


Ill post a picture soon.