Question about .45ACP

[YBNORMAL]

Hello gentleman, I had an issue the other week when I was reloading some .45. I started out reloading a few months ago with some Barry's plated bullets. Then moved on to some precision cast lead bullets. My problem is this, after I opened up the mouth of the case and seated a lead bullet, sometimes the case would shave the bullet a little and make a buildup of lead around the case rim. I didn't realize the gravity of this untill I found that my pistol would not go into battery on some of the rounds.

It was during my ladder test that I found that some wouldn't go into battery. I used a pocket knife to fix the offending lead shavings, and after I found the load I liked I reloaded another batch and also lowered my die to open up the case mouth more. After doing this, the frequency of lead being shaved was much better this time. I am hesitant to take the die down further because I am already opening up the mouth quite a bit. (had a case here and there that split).

I did notice that if I seated the bullet "smartly" that the lead would not shave......?

I am worried about over working the cases too much, is there some other trick anyone knows for keeping this from happening?

The cases were trimed and deburred, the only thing I can think is to maybe use a VLD debur tool to get a little nicer taper for the bullet to seat in.

[max384]

Hello gentleman, I had an issue the other week when I was reloading some .45. I started out reloading a few months ago with some Barry's plated bullets. Then moved on to some precision cast lead bullets. My problem is this, after I opened up the mouth of the case and seated a lead bullet, sometimes the case would shave the bullet a little and make a buildup of lead around the case rim. I didn't realize the gravity of this untill I found that my pistol would not go into battery on some of the rounds.

It was during my ladder test that I found that some wouldn't go into battery. I used a pocket knife to fix the offending lead shavings, and after I found the load I liked I reloaded another batch and also lowered my die to open up the case mouth more. After doing this, the frequency of lead being shaved was much better this time. I am hesitant to take the die down further because I am already opening up the mouth quite a bit. (had a case here and there that split).

I did notice that if I seated the bullet "smartly" that the lead would not shave......?

I am worried about over working the cases too much, is there some other trick anyone knows for keeping this from happening?

The cases were trimed and deburred, the only thing I can think is to maybe use a VLD debur tool to get a little nicer taper for the bullet to seat in.

The best solution I've found for this problem is to use plated/jacketed bullets!!! I got tired of reloading with lead and I just bit the bullet (no pun intended) and paid the extra bucks and only do lead or plated.

If you have the cases belled to the point of case failure, check your bullets. 45 ACP uses .452" diameter bullets. 45 Colt uses .456" bullets. Make sure you have the correct bullets.

If you indeed have the correct bullets, if you're shaving them during the seating process, you need more of a bell on the cases. As you've already found out, aside from the finished rounds looking ugly, they gunk up the gun and cause jams. You should have the case mouths belled enough to seat all bullets without shaving.

[YBNORMAL]

[QUOTE=max384;1097767]The best solution I've found for this problem is to use plated/jacketed bullets!!! I got tired of reloading with lead and I just bit the bullet (no pun intended) and paid the extra bucks and only do lead or plated.

QUOTE]

I was afraid you would say that. Lead is sooo cheap though!

[max384]

[QUOTE=YBNORMAL;1097772]

The best solution I've found for this problem is to use plated/jacketed bullets!!! I got tired of reloading with lead and I just bit the bullet (no pun intended) and paid the extra bucks and only do lead or plated.

QUOTE]

I was afraid you would say that. Lead is sooo cheap though!

That's just my opinion and solution. Many reloaders use and love lead. Myself, I reload as much for saving money as I do for the pure pleasure of it. With lead, I was frustrated much of the time. So, I found it to be worth it to fork out the extra cash for a bullet that didn't frustrate me to load. YMMV

Precision Delta has some good deals on Jacketed bullets.

[YBNORMAL]

Thanks for the link Max!

[brian]

you need to open the case mouth just enough to accept the projectile.
yeah it's a little more open than what is needed for a jacketed around. but it should'nt be so much as to ruin the case or cause the gun to not function correctly.
are you post sizing after seating? i also set the post sizer/crimping die for just the slightest crimp...almost unnoticable, but enough to get everything nice and neat.

most of my 45acp brass has headstamps from the mid 1980's. god only knows how many times they have been shot.
the straight walled pistol cases will last a long long time.

[YBNORMAL]

No I am not crimping. I measured my bullets just in case like Max said and they are spot on. Im wondering if I have my die too low and its starting to crimp as the bullet is still being seated.........I'll have to look into that. The rounds that come out right look just like the pic you posted. The bad ones have a ring of lead right where the rim of the case should be.

[Lycanthrope]

You're crimping before seating is done.

Buy another die. Seat and crimp at different stations.


Lycanbeentheredonethatthrope

[YBNORMAL]

Hmm, I hadn't planned on crimping at all. So I guess I'll look over my die depth again. Would you all say that I "should" be crimping .45? Everything I have read says you don't need to, and if you do, just a very slight amount (headspaces on the rim as we all know).

[psyprofpa]

I only reload with lead. I seat and crimp in separate stages. I use a taper crimp die and have had no problems with feeds.