My AR15 build - would like your opinion on parts

[pandemic]

I'm trying to build the best rifle at the cheapest cost. What do you think about this list? Any suggestions?



Updated Build:
Deleted
Lower Parts Kit from G&R Tactical - $82
BCM M4 stock kit - $74.95
H-Buffer - $22.95
=$179.9

Added:
MOE Lower build kit - $149
YHM Lightweight Tactical Free Float - Carbine - $99.95
Gas blocks (2)
"F" front sight


Changed:
Handguard cap [to] round



Build Components

Definite parts (but still open to other suggestions):
Stripped lower:
Spikes Tactical stripped lower - $100.50 (shipping included)

Barrel
Daniel Defense M4 Carbine 16" Cut Rifled Barrel (1:7) - $169.99
** Chrome lined, 4150, 1:7 twist

BCM handguard cap - Round - $3
** Delete if Free Float is chosen

MOE Lower build kit - $149
**Includes Mil-Spec MOE Stock, MOE grip, MOE Trigger Guard, CMMG Lowers Parts Kit and Mil-Spec buffer tube assembly.

BCM forward assist assembly - $13.95

BCM ejection port cover assembly - $5.95

BCM AR-15 charging handle - $22.95

BCM barrel nut - $8.95
**Delete if Free Float is chosen

BCM delta ring assembly - $10.50
** Delete if Free Float is chosen

BCM gas tube (Carbine length) - $13

BCM crush washer - $2.25 (currently out of stock)

Upper:
BCM stripped upper receiver w/ M4 feed ramp - $85.95

Flash hiders:
BCM flash hider - $8

Bolt Carrier Group:
LMT Bolt Carrier Groups - Auto - $130.00




Undecided:

Sights:
Magpul MBUS REAR Back Up Iron Sight - BLACK - $55.05

Magpul MBUS FRONT Back Up Iron Sight - BLACK - $37.95
Front Sight Base F - Milspec for Flat Top Uppers - $29.95
**Would I need a gas block for the base F front sight?
****If so, would the YHM low profile gas block work or would you opt for the PRI gas block with top rail?


Gas Block (w/rail):
PRI Gas Block With Top Picatinny Rail - $64.95
YHM Low Profile Gas Block - short version - $21.95


Rails/handguards:
BCM handguards - $22.95
**Magpul MOE Enhanced Handguard ($28.49)
Free-Floating options
YHM Lightweight Tactical Free Float - Carbine $99.95
**add YHM handguard cap if chosen
**** Do I need the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 15/16" or the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 1-1/16"?



Grand total = ???

Plus shipping...

Question:
**** Do I need the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 15/16" or the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 1-1/16"?


**Would I need a gas block for the base F front sight?
****If so, would the YHM low profile gas block work or would you opt for the PRI gas block with top rail?



Notes:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To make things cheaper, look at the Aero Precision lower/DPMS parts kit $119.99
+ Mil spec buffer tube assembly, MOE stock, grip, and trigger guard.

VS

Mil-Spec MOE Stock, MOE grip, MOE Trigger Guard, CMMG Lowers Parts Kit and Mil-Spec buffer tube assembly. - $149
Spikes Tactical - $89
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Getting rid of the delta ring ($10.50), barrel nut ($8.95), and the handguard cap ($3) would give me $22.45 + the MOE handguard ($28.49) = $50.94. For $49.01 more I could have the YHM Lightweight Tactical Free Float + $18.95 for the cap.

[T3h H4t]

Alright lemme try and give you a little feed back here.

First off, why are you buying a barrel nut/delta ring if you seem to be going with a free float hand guard?

For 6 bucks I would personally go with M4 feed ramps, not necessary but they are not a bad thing to have.

I have an MOE stock on one of my rifles, Its a very nice stock, but remember it does not have the second lock that the CTR has to stop wiggle.

The next thing I am seeing, I could be missing it I am quite tired. I dont see a Gas block for your barrel, get one that had a top pictinny rail so you can mount your BUIS up front for a longer sight radius.

The other thing is, and this is MY opinion, I think a 1:7 twist is a little bit off of what you might want. It depends on the ammunition you plan on using, 1:7 is more for your heavier ammo. Where as a 1:9 or maybe a 1:8 would be better for your 55 Grain ammo which is more prevalent (m193/XM193). That being said, Colt uses 1:7 on their rifles, and they are shooting 193 (55 grain) and ss109 (62 grain)...

I am personally a big fan of Yankee Hill, and their free float tubes. Just me personally I think they are a great deal, and they feel wonderful in the hand.

I personally like the Phantom flash hider, its a really good flash hider. That being said, the A2 Flash hider is a good bit cheaper, and not a bad option at all.

Hope this helps you out
Mike

[pandemic]

I should mention that this will be my first build and my first AR. I'm excited but man is this confusing

[mythaeus]

The delta ring, barrel nut, and the handguard cap are NOT needed for the YHM FF handguard. You may want to pick up a YHM handguard cap as it does look a little nicer to cover the front opening of the handguard.

You also don't need the gas block or the MBUS front if you are going with the standard FSB. I don't like going that route though. The BCM FSB is NOT drilled for tapper pin, which is pretty uncommon. I'd go with a railed gas block, as T3h H4t mentioned, instead and get a set of Magpul MBUS. This will give you better options for optics and sights later.

Al
PS: You'll need to buy some tools, have you figured out what you need yet?

[MTechnik]

Also, that barrel, being a 1:7 will be shot out quicker than a 1:8 barrel. And that 1:8 barrel will shoot the 79 grain rounds just fine. It just won't shoot the larger bullets (which are too long to feed in the mag anyhow.)

Also, I am fan of the Wylde chamber. Gives you 223 chamber's accuracy, but can shoot 223 and 5.56 ammo just fine.

[soberbyker]

I'm getting ready to build my first AR as well.

I went with a complete Del-Ton upper (lower parts kit included)
and a STAG ARMS stripped lower

The Upper:

16" Rifle Kit
[16 Rifle Kit -Barrel D TI 16" 1x9 Heavy Barrel]
[16 Rifle Kit / Rifle -Handguards:CAR Handguards with Heat Shields - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -BC:Standard Bolt & Carrier]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -Buttstock:M4 Buttstock - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -Grips:A2 Grip - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Carrying Handle:None]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Flash Hiders:A2 Flash Hider]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Gas Blocks:YHM Flip Up Front Gas Block]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Lower Parts:Standard Lower Parts]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-T Handle:Standard Charging Handle]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Uppers:Flat Top Upper with M4 Feed Ramps] Subtotal: $555.00 Tax: $0.00 Shipping Cost: $20.68 Grand Total: $575.68

I added the companion YHM flip-up rear site as well as a BSA red dot optic, another $120 (approx)

The stag lower $150 (including taxes and FFL charge)

Total for the gun about $846

HOWEVER

It didn't end there, tools, ammo & more ammo cans for storage, soft carry-case, mags, bore-snake, sling, laser bore sighter, etc .....

So going inexpensive for the first build is a good idea.

.

[pandemic]

[snip]
1. First off, why are you buying a barrel nut/delta ring if you seem to be going with a free float hand guard?

2. For 6 bucks I would personally go with M4 feed ramps, not necessary but they are not a bad thing to have.

3. I have an MOE stock on one of my rifles, Its a very nice stock, but remember it does not have the second lock that the CTR has to stop wiggle.

4. The next thing I am seeing, I could be missing it I am quite tired. I dont see a Gas block for your barrel, get one that had a top pictinny rail so you can mount your BUIS up front for a longer sight radius.

5. The other thing is, and this is MY opinion, I think a 1:7 twist is a little bit off of what you might want. It depends on the ammunition you plan on using, 1:7 is more for your heavier ammo. Where as a 1:9 or maybe a 1:8 would be better for your 55 Grain ammo which is more prevalent (m193/XM193). That being said, Colt uses 1:7 on their rifles, and they are shooting 193 (55 grain) and ss109 (62 grain)...

6. I am personally a big fan of Yankee Hill, and their free float tubes. Just me personally I think they are a great deal, and they feel wonderful in the hand.

7. I personally like the Phantom flash hider, its a really good flash hider. That being said, the A2 Flash hider is a good bit cheaper, and not a bad option at all.

Hope this helps you out
Mike

Thanks Mike. I'll go through and try to address your thread.
1. I'm on the fence about whether to go free float or with the MOE. The MOE is cheaper but if I can delete the barrel nut/delta ring then that's nearly $20 saved on top of the $30 for the MOE handguard.

2. I'll get the m4 feed ramp then. Is it physically part of the upper?

3. The MOE is an upgrade from the traditional M4 stock. I'll get the CTR later. I was wondering what that extra lock did - thanks.

4. Any suggestions to a cheap gas block with rail? Would it work on the MOE handguard?

5. I've been reading up on twist rates and bullet stability. I've been thinking about 1:9 or 1:8 but $170 seems like a pretty good price. I'm definitely open to suggestions (chrome lined).

6. Are they usually around $100?

7. I may go with the A2 hider. The Phantoms look cool but I can always upgrade later.

1. The delta ring, barrel nut, and the handguard cap are NOT needed for the YHM FF handguard. You may want to pick up a YHM handguard cap as it does look a little nicer to cover the front opening of the handguard.

2. You also don't need the gas block or the MBUS front if you are going with the standard FSB. I don't like going that route though. The BCM FSB is NOT drilled for tapper pin, which is pretty uncommon. I'd go with a railed gas block, as T3h H4t mentioned, instead and get a set of Magpul MBUS. This will give you better options for optics and sights later.

Al
PS: You'll need to buy some tools, have you figured out what you need yet?

Thanks for the help!
1. Getting rid of the delta ring ($10.50), barrel nut ($8.95), and the handguard cap ($3) would give me $22.45 + the MOE handguard ($28.49) = $50.94. For $49.01 more I could have the YHM Lightweight Tactical Free Float + about $20 for the cap.
**add YHM handguard cap if going
**** Do I need the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 15/16" or the YHM-9484-A End Cap for YHM Free Floats 1-1/16"?

2. Do you have a suggestion for the railed gas block?
** Add gas block and Magpul MBUS front and rear sights.

Also, that barrel, being a 1:7 will be shot out quicker than a 1:8 barrel. And that 1:8 barrel will shoot the 79 grain rounds just fine. It just won't shoot the larger bullets (which are too long to feed in the mag anyhow.)

Also, I am fan of the Wylde chamber. Gives you 223 chamber's accuracy, but can shoot 223 and 5.56 ammo just fine.

With the Wylde chamber you can fire both .223 and 5.56 but not with what I currently have? What do I currently have and how would I go about getting a Wylde chamber?

I'm getting ready to build my first AR as well.

I went with a complete Del-Ton upper (lower parts kit included)
and a STAG ARMS stripped lower

The Upper:

16" Rifle Kit
[16 Rifle Kit -Barrel D TI 16" 1x9 Heavy Barrel]
[16 Rifle Kit / Rifle -Handguards:CAR Handguards with Heat Shields - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -BC:Standard Bolt & Carrier]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -Buttstock:M4 Buttstock - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle -Grips:A2 Grip - Black]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Carrying Handle:None]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Flash Hiders:A2 Flash Hider]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Gas Blocks:YHM Flip Up Front Gas Block]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Lower Parts:Standard Lower Parts]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-T Handle:Standard Charging Handle]
[Rifle Kit / Rifle-Uppers:Flat Top Upper with M4 Feed Ramps] Subtotal: $555.00 Tax: $0.00 Shipping Cost: $20.68 Grand Total: $575.68

I added the companion YHM flip-up rear site as well as a BSA red dot optic, another $120 (approx)

The stag lower $150 (including taxes and FFL charge)

Total for the gun about $846

HOWEVER

It didn't end there, tools, ammo & more ammo cans for storage, soft carry-case, mags, bore-snake, sling, laser bore sighter, etc .....

So going inexpensive for the first build is a good idea.

.

I was thinking about going with the same package. I got mixed reports on Del-ton quality and, after someone got me started, started piecing this one together.

Thanks for all of the input. Keep it coming!

[ungawa]

If you really need ultimate flash hider then Phantom is good. If not, consider FSC 556. Slightly less flash reduction than the A2 hider but adds a modest comp. I have them on almost all my uppers. They are also compatible with some suppressors (such as Gemtech) that fit over the flash hider.

I have an upper with a YHM light weight and the rails are sharp. You might find you want rail covers. I guess you can wait and see.

[pandemic]

I'll look for the FSC 556. $8 for an A2 is pretty good and I may just stick with that for now. This build is getting pretty complicated.

I'm definitely going to get rail covers. I can install them myself I'd imagine so Im' not too worried. PaPatriot is going to help me with the build - thank god.

The parts list has been updated, btw.

... Maybe I should start a thread like TonyFly :P

[MTechnik]

With the Wylde chamber you can fire both .223 and 5.56 but not with what I currently have? What do I currently have and how would I go about getting a Wylde chamber?

I believe White Oak armament, Rock River Arms, and Noveske all make Wylde chambers (tho noveske calls it something of their own, there may be a tiny difference). The one you have will shoot both, this is just a minor accuracy upgrade when shooting 223 match ammo - if you want it.