shotgun rust

[clickwir]

I got myself a Mossberg 88 Maverick. It's got some light rust on it, previous owner forgot about it in the basement. I haven't fired it, though everything seems to function smoothly on it.

I'd say it's not really bad, but I don't know how to care for it. I was in Dicks the other day and saw a reBLUEing kit. I don't know if that's all I'd need.

I sprayed some Rem Oil on some of the parts to help prevent any further rust, I have the gun in a soft case with some tossed in dry packets to keep it moisture free, but I don't know if I can just hit it with some steel wool and then reblue it or what. Suggestions? Also, what might it cost to take it somewhere to have someone give it a good cleaning and fix up the rust?

[Bib]

Light rust? I'd first try spraying some WD-40 on it and rubbing lightly with some extra fine steel wool. If there's ant pitting, that's another matter.

[1iarrowking]

Penetrating oil, tooth brush and elbow grease. Storing in a soft case, not good. Steel wool or scuff pad will remove bluing.

[clickwir]

Why's a softcase bad?

[MJT]

If the rust is light, you may be able to remove it without removing the finish.

As others have recommended, use oil and rub very lightly. I may take a while, but here, patience will go along way.

I've have very good luck doing such chores using Kroil.

If there is pitting, you must remove all the rust thoroughly. This will likely mean some finish will be removed.

I have a Maverick. The finish is rather dark. You may get away with using Birchwood Casey Perma Blue to touch up any bare spots.

If the rust encompasses a good portion of the gun and you end up with multiple bare spots, you may want to take a look at using Aluma Hyde II from Brownells. It is a spray on finish that is very tough.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tnumber=137203

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...A_HYDE_reg__II

Good Luck

[Noah_Zark]

Why's a softcase bad?

The cloth lining (and cloth outer layer, if not vinyl) are porous and hold moisture regardless of how many dessicant packs you put inside the case. Use soft cases only for transport, never for storage.

As for rust removal, I use Kroil (Kano Laboratories) and the edge of a plastic credit card as a scraper. Kroil is an excellent rust buster. The CC will not remove blueing the way steel wool will. The best thing to use is brass wool, such as a "Chore Boy" pot scrubber. Brass is softer then the blueing and will not remove it.

HTH, and good luck,

Noah

[762xIan]

Oil and 0000 steel wool....take it easy, not a lot of pressure and it will not damage or remove existing bluing. 0000 (extra fine) steel wool & oil is used to remove bluing salts residue during the hot blue process on new finishes.

Again....It will not hurt the bluing.

Brass, Copper, and even Aluminum wools in fine grade are nice, but not necessary and won't give you the brass rub off you can get with those wools.

I had a fine rust pattern like starting on an old shotgun I picked up for real cheap at a flea market. Used 0000 steel wool and oil, started gently with a few swipes and stopped. Wiped down the barrel, and got a new piece of wool and more oil...and started again. The reason I did this is because the rust you are removing is ABRASIVE and will scratch the bluing.

After a few cycles all of the rust was gone, and no scratches to the remaining bluing. A few light pits and worn spots I touched up with some cold blue. The shotgun came out pretty decent looking.

Go nice and and easy...lots of oil, change pads (I take a steel wool pad and cut it into 3 pieces or so with scissors)....just remember you are NOT scrubbing a frying pan!

[eightshot627]

Oil and 0000 steel wool....take it easy, not a lot of pressure and it will not damage or remove existing bluing. 0000 (extra fine) steel wool & oil is used to remove bluing salts residue during the hot blue process on new finishes.

Again....It will not hurt the bluing.

Brass, Copper, and even Aluminum wools in fine grade are nice, but not necessary and won't give you the brass rub off you can get with those wools.

I had a fine rust pattern like starting on an old shotgun I picked up for real cheap at a flea market. Used 0000 steel wool and oil, started gently with a few swipes and stopped. Wiped down the barrel, and got a new piece of wool and more oil...and started again. The reason I did this is because the rust you are removing is ABRASIVE and will scratch the bluing.

After a few cycles all of the rust was gone, and no scratches to the remaining bluing. A few light pits and worn spots I touched up with some cold blue. The shotgun came out pretty decent looking.

Go nice and and easy...lots of oil, change pads (I take a steel wool pad and cut it into 3 pieces or so with scissors)....just remember you are NOT scrubbing a frying pan!

Above is the answer for light rust. A full reblue job will cost around $200. I have not had any luck with the home reblue kits. I have used Duracoat and it seems to be working but I have not tested it enough to recommend it. Duracoat gets great reviews.

Walt

[762xIan]

Above is the answer for light rust. A full reblue job will cost around $200. I have not had any luck with the home reblue kits. I have used Duracoat and it seems to be working but I have not tested it enough to recommend it. Duracoat gets great reviews.

Walt

I should have said that myself....LIGHT RUST...very fine and just starting. With the "cold blue" products I agree, I use them just for touch ups on worn spots. Doing a whole gun with cold blue can be done but not worth the work.

As far as spray on finishes go, duracoat is OK, but I prefer the bake on finishes, like KG Gunkote, they are very tough and make a very durable finish. I have done a few of my rifles with it and it is holding up quite well.

[RaisedByWolves]

Desiccant packs in a soft case = FAIL.



Birchwood casey makes a bluing pen that should work good for touch ups.

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