Remington 700 SPS tactical bolt question

[PSUfan1]

It really just looks like the mag spring is a bit stiff / not broken in yet. I can't say that my rem 700 / .308 does this; however, I still have the stock ADL stock / mag box (still waiting for my new stock). In either case, you could simply open the floor plate, and compress the spring and hold it compressed with some rubber bands / zip ties (instead of keeping it loaded).

Bolt is also a bit dry. I generally apply a thin layer of one-shot before I shoot / after I clean my rifle. It seems to work nicely.

[AR-15 Outlaw]

you could simply open the floor plate, and compress the spring and hold it compressed with some rubber bands / zip ties (instead of keeping it loaded).

great idea. wish i would have thought of that.

[Guns & Glass]

Have seen too many Rem 700 Tacticals w/too many QC problems over the last 2 years. Have sent some back to the factory. Maybe since production is way up QC is just on the back burner.

Middle bolt line is more normal than not, and caused by a combination of a newer stiffer magazine follower spring, a new not worn in follower, plus, plus rougher coatings are easier to show wear marks than smoother coatings.

Additionally the magazine follower is also not flat & smooth as seen by the wear marks in the pictures. Simply remove it and polish it w/a Arkansas stone and light oil or use fine 400 grit sandpaper or cloth and oil. Just gently "buff" it.
However....I'm holding a another 700 Tactical in .308 from a Police department w/problems and the follower in the picture looks quite different.

The bolt outside lines run almost full length from the front towards the rear, but stopping a little before the bolt area. So we know it's not the narrow action raceway back by the trigger.

Note the RS line running over the gas hole which matches to the action rear race way as does the LS. Since the action magazine race way lips are wider it's not the magazine area but the rear action.

This is just sloppy factory work.
To clean it up: Plug chamber/barrel, remove the sheet metal magazine box, remove the bolt stop & trigger assembly so you don't get grit in them. Take a long 1/2 round/fully round fine Arkansas stone with some thin oil and gently rub the raceway edges. If not to rough, and your gentle the finish amy still remain. If not then blacken w/44/40 bluing which will make it a black oxide.You can find in different stone sizes & finishes at some gun shows. Often their colors indicate material & finish. Worth the $$$$!

[cyclesteel]

Note the RS line running over the gas hole which matches to the action rear race way as does the LS. Since the action magazine race way lips are wider it's not the magazine area but the rear action.

This is just sloppy factory work.
To clean it up: Plug chamber/barrel, remove the sheet metal magazine box, remove the bolt stop & trigger assembly so you don't get grit in them. Take a long 1/2 round/fully round fine Arkansas stone with some thin oil and gently rub the raceway edges. If not to rough, and your gentle the finish amy still remain. If not then blacken w/44/40 bluing which will make it a black oxide.You can find in different stone sizes & finishes at some gun shows. Often their colors indicate material & finish. Worth the $$$$!

Thanks for the info Guns & glass,

Is this something that will eventually work it’s way smooth after a few hundred rounds. I am not too confident in doing the work myself I would probably end up doing more damage then helping it. I am currently not reloading so damaging the brass is of no concern to me right now. Could I damage the gun itself by not addressing the issue.
If I can I will contact a smith or Remington.

I stopped by tanners this morning and showed them what was happening. We pulled the action out and they noticed the edges of the magazine box had some burrs they polished them but like you said it did not help. They do not have a gunsmith so that is as far as we went,

[Guns & Glass]

Sorry, forgot to address the cartridge issue.

As the bolt moves forward it 'push-frees' the cartridge from the magazine and it's literally is free to roam. Except, it is guided by the ramp on the bottom, and the bulet is now in & under (read next part slooowly) the back part of the front of the action heading towards the chamber so it can't escape!

Take a good light and look for marks at:
1. Where the magazine box meets the feed ramp.
2. Bottom of chamber.

Brass is soft and marks easily so the marks maybe light & small, but the particles will reflect some light making a mark/line.

You'll find that problem there.

[cyclesteel]

Do I have this right it sounds as though the brass is being scraped off somewhere near the magazine box chamber area. As the bolt travels it is picking up the brass and raceway edges are depositing and spreading it on the bolt. So I have a few problems going on at once ?

Do you think it will wear in or should I get it fixed.

I am going to check out the feed ramp when I get home from work tonight.

[ReconLdr]

Do I have this right it sounds as though the brass is being scraped off somewhere near the magazine box chamber area. As the bolt travels it is picking up the brass and raceway edges are depositing and spreading it on the bolt. So I have a few problems going on at once ?

Do you think it will wear in or should I get it fixed.

I am going to check out the feed ramp when I get home from work tonight.

Here is what is happening.... Upward pressure from the magazine spring to the follower is pushing the ammo up against the bottom of the bolt. When you cycle the bolt, as it pushes a new round into the chamber, the bottom of the bolt is scraping the top round in the magazine.

This issue really isn't an issue, especially since you don't reload. My SPS Tactical did the same thing the first 150-200 rounds or so. It steadily reduced after each trip to the range. I would not do anything to reduce the tension applied by the magazine spring since if it is reduced too much it may not feed at all. If you want to reduce the brass residue, lube the bottom of the bolt so it can not rub on the ammo in the magazine or have your bolt polished so the finish is smoother.

Long story short....IMHO there is nothing wrong with your rifle and requires no action on your part. Shoot it, clean it, and put it away.

[cyclesteel]

This issue really isn't an issue, especially since you don't reload. My SPS Tactical did the same thing the first 150-200 rounds or so. It steadily reduced after each trip to the range. I would not do anything to reduce the tension applied by the magazine spring since if it is reduced too much it may not feed at all. If you want to reduce the brass residue, lube the bottom of the bolt so it can not rub on the ammo in the magazine or have your bolt polished so the finish is smoother.

Long story short....IMHO there is nothing wrong with your rifle and requires no action on your part. Shoot it, clean it, and put it away.

You are probably right. Sometimes my OCD kicks in and I can not help it.

One more quick question. Do any of you guys know the correct torque values for the action screws? Also is there a cretin order they need to be tightened

[cyclesteel]

Sorry, forgot to address the cartridge issue.

Take a good light and look for marks at:
1. Where the magazine box meets the feed ramp.
2. Bottom of chamber.

You'll find that problem there.

Guns & Glass was right on the money I Pulled the bolt and loaded up the magazine and used my finger push the rounds out into the chamber so I could see what exactly was happing . If you look at the picture ( bad pic) I put arrows to the 2 sharp edges where the brass is catching on.

I agree with ReconLdr that this is pretty much a non issue and should work itself out after a few hundred rounds. I think I wasted enough time on this issue.

Thanks everyone

[ReconLdr]

You are probably right. Sometimes my OCD kicks in and I can not help it.

One more quick question. Do any of you guys know the correct torque values for the action screws? Also is there a cretin order they need to be tightened

IIRC the action screws should be torqued to 65in/lbs.