Advice on Preserving Original Winchester 1886

[LisaA]

I recently acquired an original Winchester 1886, s/n 1400xx. caliber .38-70 (only approx. 830 made in that caliber). The stock is in great shape. The barrel has most of its bluing, and there is very little rust on it. The rifling is still present. Although the receiver's bluing is gone, there is no rust. However, there is what looks like either dried oil or lacquer on the receiver.

I want to oil and clean up the rifle to preserve it. I was told "DO NOT TOUCH IT!!!" I understand that there is the concern that if you touch it too much, then the value decreases. However, I want to keep the metal, including the action, from rusting, and I want to protect the stock.

What suggestions/advice do you have? Your help is greatly appreciated.

I intend to contact the Cody Firearms Museum to get more information about this rifle.

[justashooter]

i just bought a marin '93 in 38-55, so know what you are talking about.

the thing is, collectors of these rifles die when they see one refinished. they would prefer the guns to remain as-is, with natural "patina" (inactive rust). if you clean and preserve, you will reduce the gun's appeal to them.

if you will be storing the gun in a room with humidity below 40%, you have no worries leaving it as-is. rust will not advance in less than 40% humidity. if you want to improve the appearance without reducing value, try boiled linseed oil (hardware store).

a few drops into your hands, smoothed onto the metal and wood, will give the gun a uniform sheen and not be objectionable. be sure to use it sparingly, and on hands that have been washed and dried. no eating potato chips during the process.

[LisaA]

i just bought a marin '93 in 38-55, so know what you are talking about.

the thing is, collectors of these rifles die when they see one refinished. they would prefer the guns to remain as-is, with natural "patina" (inactive rust). if you clean and preserve, you will reduce the gun's appeal to them.

if you will be storing the gun in a room with humidity below 40%, you have no worries leaving it as-is. rust will not advance in less than 40% humidity. if you want to improve the appearance without reducing value, try boiled linseed oil (hardware store).

a few drops into your hands, smoothed onto the metal and wood, will give the gun a uniform sheen and not be objectionable. be sure to use it sparingly, and on hands that have been washed and dried. no eating potato chips during the process.

Thanks for the advice. What about protecting the action, though?

At the shop where I bought the Winchester, they also have two Marlin '93s. Calibers are .30-30 and .32 Special. The bluing on both receivers is excellent.

[Story]

Boiled linseed oil, thinned with turpentine, is fine to rub into the stock.
On the metal parts, it'll just build up. Stick to using gun oil on the exterior metal.

Knowing how to disassemble the 1886 - with properly cut screwdrivers - would be a good thing to learn how to do. Until you learn to take it apart, you can hold it bottom side up and allow a few drops of gun oil to drip into the action. When you do learn to take it apart, bet you'll find some 100 year old goop up inside the receiver that can be cleaned out with Q-tips.

There's generally one or two hard-core Winchester collectors that show up at the Allentown show (http://forum.pafoa.org/gun-shows-111...-gun-show.html ) - you can call the registration folks and see if the Winchester display guys will be there. That might be worth going up to the show with your new rifle and showing them.

Opening the action and inspecting the bore, using a light or mirror from the breech end, would be worthwhile to see if there's any pitting. Ammunition manufactured from WWII and before had a corrosive compound in the primer and black powder (which I believe the .38-70 was originally loaded with) is hydroscopic - both can be hard on a barrel, particularly if you don't clean it with warm soapy water.

If the rifle is in good shape, no reason you can't keep a box of cartridges around for it.
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,3935.html

This would be a good book to ask Santa for - but the publisher is out now.
https://www.northcapepubs.com/#anchor282472

Call Ray Riling Arms Books - they're local but their website seems twitchy today.

6844 Gorsten St., Philadelphia, PA 19119, United States
(215)438-2456, (215)438-5395 fax, http://www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com

[LisaA]

Boiled linseed oil, thinned with turpentine, is fine to rub into the stock.
On the metal parts, it'll just build up. Stick to using gun oil on the exterior metal.

Knowing how to disassemble the 1886 - with properly cut screwdrivers - would be a good thing to learn how to do. Until you learn to take it apart, you can hold it bottom side up and allow a few drops of gun oil to drip into the action. When you do learn to take it apart, bet you'll find some 100 year old goop up inside the receiver that can be cleaned out with Q-tips.

There's generally one or two hard-core Winchester collectors that show up at the Allentown show (http://forum.pafoa.org/gun-shows-111...-gun-show.html ) - you can call the registration folks and see if the Winchester display guys will be there. That might be worth going up to the show with your new rifle and showing them.

Opening the action and inspecting the bore, using a light or mirror from the breech end, would be worthwhile to see if there's any pitting. Ammunition manufactured from WWII and before had a corrosive compound in the primer and black powder (which I believe the .38-70 was originally loaded with) is hydroscopic - both can be hard on a barrel, particularly if you don't clean it with warm soapy water.

If the rifle is in good shape, no reason you can't keep a box of cartridges around for it.
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,3935.html

This would be a good book to ask Santa for - but the publisher is out now.
https://www.northcapepubs.com/#anchor282472

Call Ray Riling Arms Books - they're local but their website seems twitchy today.

6844 Gorsten St., Philadelphia, PA 19119, United States
(215)438-2456, (215)438-5395 fax, http://www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com

Gun oil for the bore, too? There is very minor pitting in the bore, but I do want to clean that. What about the dried oil/lacquer on the receiver?

Thanks for your help.

[Story]

Gun oil for the bore, too? There is very minor pitting in the bore, but I do want to clean that. What about the dried oil/lacquer on the receiver?

Thanks for your help.

1. After the black powder corrosives are scrubbed out, yes - oil, which preserves the naked metal.

Techniques for cleaning vary, as well as recommendations for specialized products
http://www.blackpowderjournal.com/ar...es/BPJ21_5.htm
http://atvconnection.com/Departments...wder-Rifle.cfm
http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aa010801.htm


2. Might be best to post a photo of the dried goo on the receiver.

3. Remember when cleaning from the muzzle, to be mindful of the rod rubbing against the lands and groves. You can fashion a little donut from tape, or a small plumbing gasket, that keeps the rod centered in the bore (and away from the muzzle's edge) as you work it back and forth.

[LisaA]

1. After the black powder corrosives are scrubbed out, yes - oil, which preserves the naked metal.

Techniques for cleaning vary, as well as recommendations for specialized products
http://www.blackpowderjournal.com/ar...es/BPJ21_5.htm
http://atvconnection.com/Departments...wder-Rifle.cfm
http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aa010801.htm


2. Might be best to post a photo of the dried goo on the receiver.

3. Remember when cleaning from the muzzle, to be mindful of the rod rubbing against the lands and groves. You can fashion a little donut from tape, or a small plumbing gasket, that keeps the rod centered in the bore (and away from the muzzle's edge) as you work it back and forth.

Thanks for the links, Story.

[phill]

If you have no active rust there is a possibility that someone has wiped it with wax. This was very common in years past before all of the new preservatives.
Just wait until you can talk to the museum or a collector. In the mean time if you must, wipe it down with a gun cloth and admire it.

[LisaA]

Just found out that my Winchester was made in 1906.

[bob308]

you can oil the metal. just oil it don't clean it with anything. the bore can be cleaned and should be and oiled. as far as the receiver not having musch blue that is common with winchesters. i don't think i have more then 1 or 2 that has much blue on them. in the winchester book by midas it says the receivers were heaterted then blued and the blue did not take well and flaked off easy.