AK Experts in Chadds Ford, PA area?

[PhillyGlock23]

Hi there everyone!

I know there are a lot of sites talking about lubrication/cleaning of the AK, but I've yet to find an all-inclusive tutorial that specifically mentions (and shows) all the areas requiring/not requiring cleaning/lubrication. (I think back to the Glock user's guide that has an actual pistol and shows exactly where and what to lubricate).

So....here is my question:

If there is anybody in the Chadds Ford, PA general area that is knowledgable with cleaning/(and more importantly lubricating) the AK, I would like to request an opportunity to meet in person so that I may learn properly and with a hands-on approach.

As always, thank you in advance!

--Dan

[brian]

cleaning an ak? now that's just funny...oh you were being serious...

if it moves or touches another part lube it.
if it's in the receiver, clean it.

really, there is not much to them. take it apart and reassemble it a few times and you should be able to figure what needs attention.

really i do not clean mine. i wipe it down from time to time, but not what i would consider a cleaning.

[PhillyGlock23]

Brian:

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my post. I certainly understand what you're saying...one of the questions I had was the bolt assembly group: Should that have lube on the outside since back and forth where it attaches to the gas piston?

Also...I remember with my M-16 that we ALWAYS disassembled the bolt assembly group for cleaning. But for some reason, with the AK can't seem to get that darn pin out of the bolt (I was hoping somebody could help me with that). Also...even though it was required with the M-16, is it even necessary to take an AK bolt apart?

Thanks!

[ShotGunLoboTomy]

my ak i just spray it down inside the receibver and wipe off the extra, these guns will run thro almost anything, just try to keep the piston dry so ya dont get all gunked up, i might do a full takedown once a year or if i start haveing problems. as my grandfather once said "if it isnt rusting , its clean enough"

[brian]

the m16/ar15 dumps hot gas into the reciever in stead of using a piston. in other words it poops where it eats. so a proper and regular cleaning is a must.

with the piston setup in the ak the hot gas pretty much stays out of the receiver, plus there are much fewer moving parts, the tolerances are much looser which all means it does'nt require the attention that the m16 does.

there is nothing in the bolt other than the floating FP. remove the bolt from the carrier, wipe it off, apply lube, replace in carrier. maybe once in a while hose it down with wd40 or something to rinse it out but other wise don't worry about it.

don't get me wrong i enjoy caring for and cleaning my weapons, but the ak just simply does not need the attention. it really is the first fire and forget weapon.

[PA Rifleman]

... I've yet to find an all-inclusive tutorial that specifically mentions (and shows) all the areas requiring/not requiring cleaning/lubrication. ...
--Dan

Dan:

As others have pointed out, don't overcomplicate a simple task as it's mostly common sense. Note the appearance of the chamber, barrel, piston, cylinder and carrier prior to firing. Clean to restore this appearance.

Exception: the carbon plating on the piston head won't come off with solvent, but won't cause a problem either. It isn't necessary to clean carbon off the piston except for the loose stuff that comes off when wiping down with powder solvent.

The earliest AKs that came into the US included gas port reamers, but they are no longer included with the current batch of AKs entering the US. They still appear for sale on gun broker and elsewhere.

Lubricate sliding or moving surfaces, but don't overlubricate to the point of dripping lube or quantities of grease that interfere with basic operation. AKs aren't sensitive to specific lubricants either. Clean engine or transmission oil work just fine, as do high end gun lubricants, I use CLP only because I have CLP for other guns.

Generally most AK owners remove the major components only, many don't bother to remove the gas cylinder. It isn't necessary to detail strip the receiver unless substantial amounts of dirt or crud got in. If this is the case, it will be very obvious as you'll have enough dirt to plant & grow small flowers.

You don't need to remove the piston from the bolt carrier (nor should you) since the pin is driven in, peened over and ground flush with the carrier (details, parts). It isn't intended for end user removal. If you succeed in removing it, you'll probably need to replace the piston pin.

The only area that gets any real amount of crud is the piston rod and bolt carrier piston extention rod, as this is where the vented barrel gas cools and condenses during firing. It's mostly a dry, black ash-like deposit that easily wipes off, so it really doesn't interfere with operation even after extended operation. If you're really into cleaning, it's easiest to clean the gas cylinder parts out with a 12 gauge shotgun brush and swab.

The only detail I suggest that isn't often published is periodically check the gas cylinder and the muzzle device (if equipped) for signs of corrosion. In the early stages, it won't cause problems but advanced corrosion in the cylinder can cause a frozen bolt carrier. Severe corrosion on the muzzle device threads may make disassembly difficult or could result in thread damage. I've seen a few Norinco pre-ban AKs with damaged muzzle threads from this.

[chalmitch]

I've taken them down for lube / giggles. My rascal son has one. If you need help I am not that far away, just up the road from Brewster's.

Best regards,
chalmitch