Glock Trigger pull adjustment

[Lycanthrope]

Even seen a plastic one break?

I haven't.

Nope. I just cut the end off of mine and run it uncaptured........


Lycanbrokehisonpurposethrope

[Yoder]

Nope. I just cut the end off of mine and run it uncaptured........


Lycanbrokehisonpurposethrope

I still run mine captured, but I popped off the end cap to change springs and just snapped it back in. I probably should just leave it off, it would be a lot easier to change springs if I feel like messing with it. So far I got about 4k rds through mine with no problems.

[Tony Fly]

Even seen a plastic one break?

I haven't.

I don't have to see one break.

(re: the guide rod) I like metal when dealing with things that take this much punishment... the stock one is great and I would trust my life to it... but Metal is "usually" more durable.

As I stated above... I would trust my life to the stock guide rod... I'm not doubting its capabilities... It's just a part I prefer to be metal usually (I even replaced the plastic rod on my Kel-Tec P32 with a metal one... never had a problem with the plastic one... just like metal better)... no real purpose besides that... just a preference thing.

[adsstorm]

Polishing the disconnector, trigger bar and all that crap will not get what you are looking for in a smoother trigger pull and crisper "feel to the trigger" and the trigger spring works to reset the trigger bar back forward of the firing pin and pops the trigger with its trigger safety back out to its original position. The lighter trigger comes from the angle at which the connector cams the trigger bar into the drop safety. So a connector with a more shallow angle will give you a lighter trigger pull and a connector with a steeper angle will give you heavier trigger pull. And if you a are a NYPD cop it sucks to be you because they are required to carry glocks witha 12 lb trigger pull which requires a completely additional part that goes into the drop safety to make the trigger pull even heavier. The mushy feel of the glock comes from the plastic trigger and the plastic drop safety in which the connector is attached to ( to much flex in the plastic ) you can buy a complete replacement trigger, and trigger bar assembley and drop safety that is made of aluminum that will take away the mussy feel and a 3.5 connector with a shollow angle I think the ghost connector or wilson makes these after this it will feel like a whole new gun. And yes I am an armorer and certified through glock.

[Asmodeus6]

A certified armorer that responds to year old threads?



FWIW; I run mine with the XP striker spring so I can shoot any ammo on earth.
I run the XP trigger spring to slightly offset the XP striker spring.
And my stock connector looks like a mirror.
So does my safety plunger, and the portions of the trigger bar that interface with anything.

0 mush, great reset, predictable break.

I also like the TFO type night sights. They are fun to look at day or night. Not necessary, but I like them.

[Yoder]

I got my certification through watching videos on youtube and reading. I think my kid could fix a Glock.

[adsstorm]

Actually the trigger spring does not return the trigger to the forward position, it's helping to pull the trigger. Next time you take your gun apart check it out. An increased power trigger spring will reduce trigger pull not increase it.

Tony, I would highly recommend trying out the extended controls. I bought a set that had the mag release, slide release and mag well plug and It's like the gun was made for me. I also installed a Glock 3.5lb connector and did the .25c trigger job. All the parts I installed are Glock parts so reliability is not effected. I use my Glock for IDPA so ther's only so much you can change before it's illegal for SSP class.

The trigger spring keeps the trigger bar captured against the the connector it is involved in the proper engagement of the connector at the time you pull the trigger and at the time you release the trigger for the reset. A heaver spring will pull it against the connector harder. The connector slids the trigger bar down and the the very back of the trigger bar is what is pulling the firing pin back. The connector is on the outside of the radius of the spring when the trigger bar drops down at an angel the spring connected on the trigger bar swings around the radius of the loaded spring. The spring load stays for the most part constent. when the slid is out of battery the connector is being pushed inward away from the trigger bar bar groove cut into the upper receiver so when you pull the trigger and the trigger bar is being held into place properly by the trigger spring it will miss the connector and never drop down into the drop safety thus never relesing the firing pin. This is the only time the trigger spring is unloaded. So a weaker a spring can cause engagement issues with the connector. To lighten the trigger buy a connector with a diffrent angle at which the connector engages the trigger bar. Look at a picture of a stock connector and a heaver connector, and a lighter connector. This is what lightens your trigger pull ( lighter leverage or heavier leverage which is generated by the angle at which the trigger bar is slid across your connector. The trigger reset is done by the trigger bar being placed back infront of the firing pin and the spring tension of the firing pin (which is greater than the tension of the trigger spring) pushes the trigger back forward into it's original position.