Interarms Walther PPK/S

[Fudmottin]

I just have a few questions on this pistol that I bought new about ten years or so ago. It's been siting in its box because it is no fun to shoot in present condition.

1) Does an Interarms PPK/S have any kind of collector value?

2) To change the barrel, which way do you knock the pin out?

3) What's the best place to get a PP barrel in stainless?

4) What is the preferred method of covering up or otherwise getting rid of the trigger groves and going with a smooth face?

I plan to do some smithing on this piece. I want to remove some sharp edges on the frame in the grip area and on the slide behind the serrations. I also want to swap the barrel for the PP barrel.

This is the 380 ACP caliber version.

[Tony Fly]

The barrel on most Walthers is part of the frame... if this is the case with yours (and I think it is) you most likely will not be able to change it.

I own a 1964 walther PP... Awfully painful to shoot after 50 (more like 20) rounds due to the blowback design of the gun.

On my Walther, you need to pull the trigger guard down and move/lock it to the side to dis-assemble it. then pull the slide back and up and it should come right off... watch where the spring flies to though. you will need it for re-assembly.




If you do not like yours, don't worry... I will buy it off of you for the outrageous price of $50.00... boy, I must be a sucker to pay that much!
j/k

[Fudmottin]

Did they use to weld the barrel in or something?

There is a barrel pin. When that is removed, you can press the barrel out. It goes out backwards. That is you push from the muzzle end.

I couldn't find a stainless barrel. The best I could do was blued.

You really do know how to offer ten cents on the dollar!

[Tony Fly]

Did they use to weld the barrel in or something?

There is a barrel pin. When that is removed, you can press the barrel out. It goes out backwards. That is you push from the muzzle end.

I couldn't find a stainless barrel. The best I could do was blued.

You really do know how to offer ten cents on the dollar!

My barrel does not remove... although it is 45 years old.

When did you give me a dollar?

[Fudmottin]

If my barrel can't come out, I'm going to be pissed. The diagram does show it as being removable. And they do have spare barrels. So it has to be possible.

[Grumpa72]

Are you sure the barrel isn't pinned in place? I can't imagine casting and machining that whole assembly.

[rich e]

Well here is my opinion..

If you have done nothing to your PPK/S and it looks new..You can check gun-broker and guns-america and see what good condition PPK/s are going for..That's what yours would be worth.

If you start trying to change barrels, and doing home gunsmithing on it..It will be worth less..If, it is in good condition, I'd say sell it..Use the money to buy what you want..You'd probably be better off...

Just my own humble opinion

BTW..I love my Interarms PPK/s..Its accurate and reliable and a blast to shoot..You should try my Ruger superblackhawk 44 mag..With a 4-5/8 barrel and factory wooden grips THAT pistol is way fun to shoot.."For the first 30 rounds that is"..

Rich

[Fudmottin]

I don't want to sell it. And I like the look of it. I just wanted to make some minor changes. A smooth faced trigger would make DA mode more comfortable. A little rounding on the back strap and lower portion of the slide behind the serrations should take the bite out.

And the PP barrel will give me a solid mount for an F1 can. I have looked at the idea of threading that would be inside the slide. I know it can be done. I just think it would be a tad fragile for comfort. Besides, the PP barrel is only 15mm longer.

I know how it goes with the 44. I have a S&W 629 with 3" barrel. You want kick? That's got kick!!! Nice rosewood grips too.

[Fudmottin]

I got the AGI video on the PPK/S & FEG PA63 clone (with minor variations).

While the guy didn't actually remove the barrel, it looks like a simple operation. Also, in spite of all the little parts in the gun, it turns out that break down for a complete cleaning and lubrication (as opposed to a simple field strip) is a fairly simple operation too.

So the way I plan to deal with the trigger is to make my own. I haven't seen any on the market that have a smooth face. I think a piece of 7075 aluminum will make a fine trigger replacement.