reblueing a gun

**Shawn.L** · April 2nd, 2009, 09:06 PM

whats the best way?
how?
materials?
what should you know?
experiances and ect

I am picking up a used surplus Sig P6 soon and I am thinking I want to make it into a spring project, not sure what condition its it yet.

**P-11 shooter** · April 2nd, 2009, 09:24 PM

PM sent. +10

**Chazman321** · April 3rd, 2009, 01:14 PM

I've had good luck so far with cold bluing... The hardest part about cold bluing is the preperation...

-Chaz

**Shawn.L** · April 3rd, 2009, 02:43 PM

Originally Posted by bigb00mer

if you are not going to hot salt blue it, I would go with ceracoat, glass bead it, spray on the ceracoat, bake it and you done

can you give me more info on what these terms mean?

**knight0334** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:33 PM

There are two ways to blue a gun, hot and cold. Cold offers little to no protection. Hot bluing goes deeper, provides more protection, and has more luster. The procedure for both are different.

Cold bluing is really only meant to fix a small worn or scratched spot.

Ceracoat is a spray on finish like Duracoat.

**gold cup abuser** · April 4th, 2009, 11:02 AM

From my memory.........

the firearm must be completely disassembled down to the bare frame and bare slide.

The current finish will need to be removed. This is best done with a sandblaster and cabinet. This will get the finish off.

Next the frame and slide will need to be polished GENTLY using a bench grinder. You replace the grinding wheel with a polishing wheel and use a compound called jewelers rouge. The compound goes on the polishing wheel.

You then GENTLY polish the slide and frame being careful NOT to round any edges of the pistol or removing any marking on the slide and frame.

Degrease and clean the parts, use gloves so as NOT to get any fingerprints on the newly polished parts.

You will now need a small pot to set up the bluing salts. Follow the instructions on the chemicals and wear EYE protection and a shop apron. When the bluing salts come to slight boil you insert the parts and after a few minutes the bluing is completed. Stainless steel pot and tools to take out and put in the parts is a good idea here...think small basket

Don't do this part without a LOT of fresh air/ventilation. Also a good idea is to do this when the wife/girlfriend/significant other is NOT around to smell this

Brownell's has all of the tools needed to get this done and they can help you out over the phone too.

Or you could send the pistol out to be re blued or hard chrome finished........

good luck on whatever process you take.

**Steven Dzupin** · April 9th, 2009, 07:54 AM

Contact Brownells and get their book Gunsmith Kinks Volume #1.

Covers Buling / Blackining thoroughly.

Regards,

Steve

**Warpt762x39** · April 9th, 2009, 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by gold cup abuser

From my memory.........

the firearm must be completely disassembled down to the bare frame and bare slide.

The current finish will need to be removed. This is best done with a sandblaster and cabinet. This will get the finish off.

Next the frame and slide will need to be polished GENTLY using a bench grinder. You replace the grinding wheel with a polishing wheel and use a compound called jewelers rouge. The compound goes on the polishing wheel.

You then GENTLY polish the slide and frame being careful NOT to round any edges of the pistol or removing any marking on the slide and frame.

Degrease and clean the parts, use gloves so as NOT to get any fingerprints on the newly polished parts.

You will now need a small pot to set up the bluing salts. Follow the instructions on the chemicals and wear EYE protection and a shop apron. When the bluing salts come to slight boil you insert the parts and after a few minutes the bluing is completed. Stainless steel pot and tools to take out and put in the parts is a good idea here...think small basket

Don't do this part without a LOT of fresh air/ventilation. Also a good idea is to do this when the wife/girlfriend/significant other is NOT around to smell this

Brownell's has all of the tools needed to get this done and they can help you out over the phone too.

Or you could send the pistol out to be re blued or hard chrome finished........

good luck on whatever process you take.

Isn't Naval Jelly also used to removed the old finish without beating up the surface like glass beading or sand blasting? It would make polishing a heckuva lot easier. I ask because I have spent many hours polishing metals. Mainly aluminum and titanium.

**Shawn.L** · April 9th, 2009, 10:09 PM

this thread has been very informative

thanks to all that posted

I picked up the pistol I thought I would need this info for today............ and its in great shape, so no re-blue for me

**Warpt762x39** · April 9th, 2009, 10:24 PM

Originally Posted by Shawn.L

this thread has been very informative

thanks to all that posted

I picked up the pistol I thought I would need this info for today............ and its in great shape, so no re-blue for me

You get everyones hopes up and then you crush them with your "no re-blue for me"