Help me fix my AR trigger pull.

[RaisedByWolves]

Ok, I just finished the trigger group mod from the link that imashooter provided with good results. I went from a 7.6/8.3lb trigger (yeah, it was gritchy) to about a 5lb pull. I say about cause I cant get a straight pull due to the stock being in the way. if I go at a slight angle downwards Im at 4 lb 12oz and if I go a lil to the side to get a straight pull to the rear Im about 5lb 2oz.

Its smooth as hell now, but this only accentuates the creep. Friggin thing has more creep than a B movie.


For 15min and $0 its a pretty good improvement! Ill have to report back after I test it out.


.

[hzox221]

Cheap
JP Reduced Spring Kit

Less Cheap
JP Hammer and Spring Kit

Good
JP Trigger, Hammer and Spring Kit

Unless you arer shooting at Camp Perry or on a long range critter hunt out west, you do not need a two stage trigger.

[Lycanthrope]

1911's are two stage triggers...........

And although most two stage triggers are set for 4+lbs to be legal for CMP......a 2lb Jewell in an AR is a work of art.


Lycanreallythrope

[Shawn.L]

I put RRA 2-stage's in both my AR's.
I love the one in my middy, but the one in my CMP rifle is a bit more rigid and I dont feel it breaks as clean.
part of it is prob that my middy has seen a lot, LOT more use and is broken in more.

but then at CMP practice-practice today I checked out Bear's trigger on his RRA NM AR. Much nicer and waaaaaay lighter than either of mine.

I would like to clean up and lighten the CMP one.

[RaisedByWolves]

Well I put 70rds downrange and the trigger is nice. Still too much creep, but it has so much that you can get some creep and it starts to get firmer right before the sear breaks. I was able to get 1" 100yrd groups, though not reliably as my technique needs work.

.

[imashooter2]

The set screw should help with the creep...

[adsstorm]

If you are wanting to have a lighter trigger pull dont jack with the parts that are in it. I have seen way to many people screw them and most of them do not work. If the parts are new just work them awhile and you will start to see 5-6 pound trigger pulls unlike 7-8 when new. Let the parts ware to each other. When you start polishing sear engagement surfaces such as the hammer trigger engagment you will start to have double shots when you release the trigger after a shot. or if you mess with the hammer disconnector surfaces you can have multiple shots when you pull the trigger. So my advice would be to by a two stage trigger that is made to be adjustable. Mess with it alot before you shot it though because it is no just the trigger pull you have to adjust, you also have to adjust the reset of the trigger. And to get the right balance can be tricky.

[gunslinger401]

If you have to much creap with the set screw you may have to fit the safety also this will enable you to take out all of the creap and still have a useable safety. Just don't get over zealous.

[puccini]

Rock River Arms has a patented 2 stage trigger thats really great.
It comes on all their AR's but you can purchase one

It fits into other lowers and it's not expensive.

Like their AR's, its a great item.

[Bob_W]

RaisedByWolves

I built the attached fixture for working on the AR trigger group. Being a toolmaker, you should be able to do something similar if you desire. I have evaluated sear and hammer hook angles, and reduced creep by using this fixture. It makes it very easy to modify, and retest your work. Since a good amount of the trigger pull comes from the springs and the angles, these can be checked and trigger pulled measured right on the fixture. Note that there is also a hammer stop block with a leather face.

The hammer spring that is shown on the fixture is one that I wound for testing. Two of the pictures show how I made the springs. The mill was not running! It was only used to hold the mandrel, while I turned the rectangular bar by hand. The wood pieces and the clamp on the left were used to add tension to the wire while I wound them. First the wire is bent in the middle to form the square portion that contacts the hammer. This takes a lot of trial and error to get one that you like

To reduce creep you can add shims between the trigger rear bar (part going under the safety) and the bottom of the receiver cavity. That gap is easily seen above the bottom plate of the fixture. I just lay them in, but they should be sized so that they are trapped and can't move anywhere.

Hopefully you will find something of use in this picture.

Please use caution in working with any of these parts if you are not sure of what you are doing. Bad things could happen.

Bob W