Ruger Mark III Hunter disassembly and reassembly...

**actruck** · February 20th, 2009, 01:51 PM

I purchased new Ruger Mark III Hunter model KMKIII45H yesterday. I tried to field strip and clean it before its first trip to the range but messed up somewhere along the line. I was unable to remove the mainspring house using the Ruger manual and on-line videos. It would only move about 3/8". Now I can not even pull the bolt back. It only moves maybe 1/2". Things are still somewhat free but I just can’t get it any further with it. I also noticed in the manual it says to "Disengaged Internal Lock if necessary". I didn’t do this step. Could this be the problem? I know…I know…

If anyone knows how to dissemble and reassemble this gun and live somewhat close to me, I am willing to put up some cash to see this problem resolved. I'm in Waynesboro, Pa.

Email: 69_dartswinger@comcast.net

Thanks

**Jeep274** · February 20th, 2009, 06:10 PM

I don't know if these will help you, but they are a couple of good write ups on breaking down the Mark III pistols.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

**VariableFeedback** · February 20th, 2009, 07:11 PM

Originally Posted by actruck

I purchased new Ruger Mark III Hunter model KMKIII45H yesterday. I tried to field strip and clean it before its first trip to the range but messed up somewhere along the line. I was unable to remove the mainspring house using the Ruger manual and on-line videos. It would only move about 3/8". Now I can not even pull the bolt back. It only moves maybe 1/2". Things are still somewhat free but I just can’t get it any further with it. I also noticed in the manual it says to "Disengaged Internal Lock if necessary". I didn’t do this step. Could this be the problem? I know…I know…

If anyone knows how to dissemble and reassemble this gun and live somewhat close to me, I am willing to put up some cash to see this problem resolved. I'm in Waynesboro, Pa.

Email: 69_dartswinger@comcast.net

Thanks

actruck,

I've had the same problems with my Mk II and Mk III. The day after I bought my Mk II 22/45, I was back at the gun shop asking for help. I've always been able to remove the mainspring with enough force. Sometimes, I need to slide a rope behind the mainspring to get a better grip. Try this site for assembly instructions.

Hope this helps.

**ErSwnn** · February 20th, 2009, 09:58 PM

Great gun, fothermucker to strip. You'll get it after a few dozen attempts. I can imagine the flack I'm about to recieve for this but....I just spray mine down with electrical contact or brake cleaner and swab it out real good. Let it dry and a few drops of oil later all is well. BTW, mine was well used when I got it 29 years ago. I doubt I'd try the same thing on a new one.

**actruck** · February 20th, 2009, 11:48 PM

Thanks for everyone’s help. The problem was...I wasn’t putting enough umph into pulling the mainspring assembly up and out. I had to use the rope method but it worked. I never thought I would have to use this much abuse on a brand new gun. (Hammer and dow pin…unbelievable)

I was able to get the mainspring assembly out and once I reinstalled it then did another disassembly, all was well. I could remove the bolt properly.

The reassembly was another thing though. It took me almost an hour fiddling with it before I realized what was happening. I read and re-read step 8 of the link below. This step was a MUST in my situation.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

Again, thanks to all for the help and advice.

**AgirlAndAgun** · April 25th, 2009, 10:15 AM

How are things going for you with the dis/re assembly? I still have to use a rubber mallot and steel pin, but I'm to the point where it doesn't make me furious when I clean it.

Magazine in, Magazine out...Cleaning this gun is a huge PITA. But, I really enjoy shooting it.

**zachomega** · April 25th, 2009, 11:10 AM

I have a few tools I keep around for the disassembly and reassembly of my Ruger Mark III Hunter. I bought it brand new and the fitting is VERY tight on most of the parts. Especially the main spring assembly and the upper receiver to the rest of the frame.

The tool I use to unlock the main spring assembly is a safety pin. I put the hook park over the latch and pull down. I have bent the pointed part straight. It works like a charm! Additionally, during reassembly, the pointed part is useful for moving around that dangly thing hanging out on the end of the hammer which always loves to get caught under that bar.

I also have a small piece of a dowel rod (You can get these at home depot for like $1.50 in 3 feet sections. The piece I cut is all of maybe 4 inches. I use this and a hammer (raw hide or nylon) to tap out the main spring assembly from the upper receiver. When they are new, they do NOT come right out and go right back in like in the videos I have watched on Youtube.

I also keep a hammer around. I used to use the wooden part of a claw hammer, but I like the little brass hammer that came with my Lyman punch set. I use the nylon end. For disassembly, I will tap the back of the upper receiver until it pops right off. As I said, the fitting is VERY tight.

During reassembly, I tap the front of the barrel until it is very tight. This helps getting the main spring assembly back together which is VERY difficult when the pistol is new. This does loosen up over time.

The dowel rod also helps push the hammer forward right before reinstalling the main spring assembly.

The trick to the whole process is taking your time and using a little common sense.

For example, the bolt assembly can be removed with the magazine in but cannot be reinserted with the magazine in.

The hammer must be parallel to the barrel for the bolt assembly to be reinstalled. But the hammer must be upright for the main spring to go in. Otherwise it'll keep slipping out.

The hammer will not move unless the safety is disengaged and the magazine is in the gun. So anytime you have to move the hammer forward, you need a magazine in the gun.

Like anything else, it gets easier with repetition.

The only gripe I have is that my front sight seems to loosen up during shooting as the barrel gets hotter. I'm not sure what can be done to prevent this as the barrel will expand as it gets hotter. I've tried thread lock of various strength. That didn't even really help at all. The best thing I've come up with so far is teflon tape wrapped pretty generously around the screw that holds down the front sight. It still comes loose over time, but a lot longer.

Lastly, if you are like me and don't like the front fiber optic sight or rear blade with the v notch this is the response I got when I inquired with Ruger:

Hello, I have a Ruger Mark III Hunter and wanted to know if Ruger sells standard non fiber optic sights for it. I'd like to "downgrade" the stock sights with normal target sights.

-Zach

Response:
We do sell a front sight and a rear blade that will replace the fiber optic and V-notch sights. The front sight is A03612 and the rear blade is MR05901. They can be ordered by phoning our parts department (928/778-6555)

Congratulations on the new gun! I absolutely love my Ruger!

-Zach

**Shawn.L** · April 25th, 2009, 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by ErSwnn

Great gun, fothermucker to strip. You'll get it after a few dozen attempts. I can imagine the flack I'm about to recieve for this but....I just spray mine down with electrical contact or brake cleaner and swab it out real good. Let it dry and a few drops of oil later all is well. BTW, mine was well used when I got it 29 years ago. I doubt I'd try the same thing on a new one.

no flack here

thats why I love aerosol can's of CLP.
Spray the little bastard down, bore snake, rag, q-tip, and where DONE!
once in a blue moon I will stip and do a "real" cleaning, not sure it needs it, but when i feel like having some gun cleaning time.

**A/C guy** · April 25th, 2009, 07:47 PM

It gets a little easier after a few times. I only clean mine when the trigger starts to feel gritty. Take it apart and hose it down with brake cleaner (solvent), blow it out with compressed air, then spray with CLP and blow out excess.

I very seldom clean the barrel and only by pulling a patch through with a piece of weed eater string with a "button" melted on the end. If a round doesn't drop freely into the chamber when held muzzle down, then it's time to clean the wax, etc. out.