Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #1
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    Default how to set up old compound

    I mentioned before in another thread I will be setting up an old hoyt/easton gamegetter. I am looking for any tips on how to set this up for hunting. I have set of tru-glo sights I will be putting on, Thinking of a 2 prong quick tune rest or maybe a huntmaster 2000 or whiskerbiscuit. What is involed in a bows tune-up lubricating and string replacement? Anything I can do my self as I am on a budget? Should I stay with aluminum arrows since it is an old bow?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Well i would say take it to a local shop, maybe one where you know people or comes well recommended and explain the situation to them. Most shops will help you out for a pretty reasonable fee if you explain to them that you do not have much money and are sincere about it.
    Minimal list of what you will need I would say:
    a set of fiber optic sights - the tru glos should cover this
    a rest - prongs are cheaper than whisker biscuits
    arrows - aluminums may be cheaper but might be harder to find, there are carbons out there now that are ultra reasonable as well
    broadheads - everyone likes something different, but all are pricey. I use muzzys and have loved them.
    release - if you are shooting fingers, you can get a tab cheap, if you want to shoot a mechanical release, they can be had pretty cheap as well.

    As far as restringing a bow, someone with a press and knowledge should do it since they will have to put new servings on, put twists in the string, etc.
    Lubricating is something you could do if you like, but i doubt the bow needs it, the cams and wheels should be fine, but if you want - gun oil would work i am sure.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    What weight are you shooting? I would honestly say to go with the whisker biscuit rest, the arrows are your choice, if you can afford the carbons, and find some that will shoot well, go for it. Is the string frayed, or can you see any damage? If not I wouldn't replace the string, but I would buy some string wax, its like $5 and any archery shop should carry it.

    Also I would inspect the limbs, make sure that there are not any cracks, or splints in it.

    Broadheads are your choice, muzzy's may not be a bad choice, but I would stay with cut on impacts, I wouldn't not recommend that you shoot any mechanical broadheads.
    "Skin that'n pilgrim, and I'll git ya another"

  4. #4
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Jason,

    Not sure where you are taking it but I HIGHLY recommend Gary's Bow Shack. He's been in busy a long time and knows a lot more about older bows then just about anyone in our area. Great guy too and good prices.

    He also won't bullshit you like a lot of other dealers will. If you don't need new stuff he won't sell it to you. Also he normally has a great turn around time.

    Not sure how much you are looking at spending on your bow but you may want to look at the Mission line of bows that he sells there as well... think they start around 350.00 or so?
    The first vehicles normally on the scene of a crime are ambulances and police cruisers. If you are armed you have a chance to decide who gets transported in which vehicle, if you are not armed then that decision is made for you.

    Be prepared, because someone else already is and no one knows their intent except them.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Quote Originally Posted by Arch007er View Post
    What weight are you shooting? I would honestly say to go with the whisker biscuit rest, the arrows are your choice, if you can afford the carbons, and find some that will shoot well, go for it. Is the string frayed, or can you see any damage? If not I wouldn't replace the string, but I would buy some string wax, its like $5 and any archery shop should carry it.

    Also I would inspect the limbs, make sure that there are not any cracks, or splints in it.

    Broadheads are your choice, muzzy's may not be a bad choice, but I would stay with cut on impacts, I wouldn't not recommend that you shoot any mechanical broadheads.
    Muzzy is always a great choice :P The rest of what he said is spot on
    The first vehicles normally on the scene of a crime are ambulances and police cruisers. If you are armed you have a chance to decide who gets transported in which vehicle, if you are not armed then that decision is made for you.

    Be prepared, because someone else already is and no one knows their intent except them.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    Muzzy is always a great choice :P The rest of what he said is spot on
    You and your muzzy's and mathews!!LOL I honestly think that a cut on impact BH's are a good idea in this case (and not just because I'm a cut on impact kinda guy). My pops used to shoot his gamegetter @ 70-75 Lbs (using a 2216 I think) and he would get just over 200 fps, thats the reason why I'm suggesting those types of heads, I'm not trying to pull him over to my side LOL.
    "Skin that'n pilgrim, and I'll git ya another"

  7. #7
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Be warned on the whisker biscuit thought Jason, if you are already shooting a slow bow with heavy arrows, the whisker biscuit will slow the arrows down even more.
    Also some folks have problems with what the whiskers do to their vanes as they pass through the fibers - make them wavy after a number of shots. Some people experience it, other don't.

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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog02 View Post
    Be warned on the whisker biscuit thought Jason, if you are already shooting a slow bow with heavy arrows, the whisker biscuit will slow the arrows down even more.
    Also some folks have problems with what the whiskers do to their vanes as they pass through the fibers - make them wavy after a number of shots. Some people experience it, other don't.
    Thats a good call, I wouldn't go shooting the arrows that I fletched up for hunting through the rest a couple dozen times. Just get it spot on and leave it, other than a few practice shots through out the season, I have a practice only arrow that I'll use. As far as the rest slowing it down, I've only noticed a few fps drop, nothing to really worry about for me.

    If you do go with the whisker biscuit (I like mine BTW) just make sure to tip your fletchings well with the glue.
    "Skin that'n pilgrim, and I'll git ya another"

  9. #9
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog02 View Post
    Be warned on the whisker biscuit thought Jason, if you are already shooting a slow bow with heavy arrows, the whisker biscuit will slow the arrows down even more.
    Also some folks have problems with what the whiskers do to their vanes as they pass through the fibers - make them wavy after a number of shots. Some people experience it, other don't.
    Good point but the speed difference is minimal, 2 - 3 fps different between a drop away and a WB. That amount of speed can easily be made up by using a slightly lighter arrow or using Blazers instead of 4" vanes / feathers. I have experienced the "waving" on the vanes when shooting a 4" vein and shooting extensively (300+ shots) and it didn't impact flight at all.

    My dad has a prohunter and he shoot Cut on Impacts as well, but a good fixed blade will work just as well at 200 fps. No way in hell should you consider shooting a mech head, you don't have the KE.

    If you can get a 450 grain arrow going 200 FPS you'll have 40 pounds of KE, thats plenty to go through the a deer at 30 yards.
    The first vehicles normally on the scene of a crime are ambulances and police cruisers. If you are armed you have a chance to decide who gets transported in which vehicle, if you are not armed then that decision is made for you.

    Be prepared, because someone else already is and no one knows their intent except them.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: how to set up old compound

    Quote Originally Posted by Dredly View Post
    Good point but the speed difference is minimal, 2 - 3 fps different between a drop away and a WB. That amount of speed can easily be made up by using a slightly lighter arrow or using Blazers instead of 4" vanes / feathers. I have experienced the "waving" on the vanes when shooting a 4" vein and shooting extensively (300+ shots) and it didn't impact flight at all.

    My dad has a prohunter and he shoot Cut on Impacts as well, but a good fixed blade will work just as well at 200 fps. No way in hell should you consider shooting a mech head, you don't have the KE.

    If you can get a 450 grain arrow going 200 FPS you'll have 40 pounds of KE, thats plenty to go through the a deer at 30 yards.
    On my chrono it was a total of 15 fps between a newer whisker biscuit and a qad ultra, but to each his own. Just pointing out that it is slower, and if the bow is already slow and the arrows are oak trees - it may help a bit.
    Doesn't impact flight from my tests, but the sound alone of fap fap fap fap fap going downrange was enough to drive me insane, not to mention if the glue on the end of the fletching would pull up and it tears a fletching off.

    Either way, paired with a decent arrow aluminum or carbon, and the bow as it is, you will easily have the power to go through a deer, more is better, but it will surely get the job done.
    Last edited by bigdog02; December 19th, 2008 at 01:40 PM.

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