Quantity or quality?

[Ronin]

Now many can you fire at a time?

Three. One in each hand and my Codpiece Revolver...

codpiece revolver.JPG

[Noah_Zark]

. . . I am now at the age that I take a REALLY hard look to determine if I am going to buy anything that won't really fit into my collection . . .

I'm at the same age, and have a very short "short list." Since 2018 I've sold maybe 80-90 guns that no longer held interest, but have added maybe 10-12 others in which I either had an interest or developed an interest.

Fundamentally, I've tended to obtain examples of a given firearm in the best condition possible for the price. For example, the M1 Rifles (Garands) that I have are all post-WWII manufacture, either Springfield Armory or H&R, with muzzle wear gauge numbers of 0 to 1. Essentially as-manufactured condition. Accurate rifles mean much more to me than "correct" M1s with the drawing numbers of the parts having to agree with the time period of the manufacture of the receiver and barrel, but with positively crap MW and TE numbers.

I do own some inexpensive guns, such as certain models of Charter Arms 44 Specials, and a couple Charter "Patriot" models in 327 Federal. I don't shoot them every week because they aren't made for that, but they all have amazing single action triggers, almost S&W-like, and they are fairly accurate. But I bought the best-condition examples I could find, and I pass up any that were rode hand and put up wet. For a long time I looked to find an early Bridgeport-made 3" 44 Special, but everything I found was pretty beat. Patience paid off and I found one that is ANIB, and for under $400.

Then at the opposite end of the spectrum I have some higher-dollar guns like Dan Wesson 1911s in 45ACP, 38 Super, and 9mm. All were either factory "blems" or used, and they cost me between $900 and $1400, but they have consistent trigger pulls around 3.8 to 4.2 lbs, and are crazy accurate If I do my part. All of the other 1911s (save for two Colt Competition models in 45ACP and 38 Super and one SIG Ultra Carry in 45ACP) went down the road long ago. Don't miss them at all.

Other top end firearms include some single shots by Shiloh Sharps, C Sharps, Pedersoli, a few Browning/Miroku 1885s in 45-70, 38-55, and 30-30, a number of Ruger #1s in 405, 45-70, 6.5x55, 303 British, 30-30, 38-55, 357 Magnum, 44 Magnum, and a #3 in 30-40 that wears custom #1 furniture. Also a Ballard Rifle Co. (now defunct) in 30-40 which is probably the one firearm I've paid the most for; you've seen it in the Cruzans gun pic thread, but here's another gratuitous pic:



I still have a mess of leverguns even after selling off 15 or 16 Marlins. Again, they were purchased in the best condition possible given the price. I've passed up "cheaper" examples because they've been hammered, and I've walked by super-expensive NIB examples because the price was ridiculous even by Gunbroker asking price standards.

Noah

[free]

Three. One in each hand and my Codpiece Revolver...

Yeah? What kind of accuracy are you getting?

[Ronin]

Yeah? What kind of accuracy are you getting?

Pretty good with one in each hand. The codpiece has a mind of its own and just pisses everywhere...

[arjohnson]

Now many can you fire at a time?

On the other hand, someone on this forum is selling a Wilson for $1300 less than he paid for it....so seems like they're not great buys.

I had a Wilson CQB, nice gun but not worth 2500.00, lucky for me I got into for a good bit less and made out when I sold it.

[knight0334]

I'm at the same age, and have a very short "short list." Since 2018 I've sold maybe 80-90 guns that no longer held interest, but have added maybe 10-12 others in which I either had an interest or developed an interest.

Fundamentally, I've tended to obtain examples of a given firearm in the best condition possible for the price. For example, the M1 Rifles (Garands) that I have are all post-WWII manufacture, either Springfield Armory or H&R, with muzzle wear gauge numbers of 0 to 1. Essentially as-manufactured condition. Accurate rifles mean much more to me than "correct" M1s with the drawing numbers of the parts having to agree with the time period of the manufacture of the receiver and barrel, but with positively crap MW and TE numbers.

I do own some inexpensive guns, such as certain models of Charter Arms 44 Specials, and a couple Charter "Patriot" models in 327 Federal. I don't shoot them every week because they aren't made for that, but they all have amazing single action triggers, almost S&W-like, and they are fairly accurate. But I bought the best-condition examples I could find, and I pass up any that were rode hand and put up wet. For a long time I looked to find an early Bridgeport-made 3" 44 Special, but everything I found was pretty beat. Patience paid off and I found one that is ANIB, and for under $400.

Then at the opposite end of the spectrum I have some higher-dollar guns like Dan Wesson 1911s in 45ACP, 38 Super, and 9mm. All were either factory "blems" or used, and they cost me between $900 and $1400, but they have consistent trigger pulls around 3.8 to 4.2 lbs, and are crazy accurate If I do my part. All of the other 1911s (save for two Colt Competition models in 45ACP and 38 Super and one SIG Ultra Carry in 45ACP) went down the road long ago. Don't miss them at all.

Other top end firearms include some single shots by Shiloh Sharps, C Sharps, Pedersoli, a few Browning/Miroku 1885s in 45-70, 38-55, and 30-30, a number of Ruger #1s in 405, 45-70, 6.5x55, 303 British, 30-30, 38-55, 357 Magnum, 44 Magnum, and a #3 in 30-40 that wears custom #1 furniture. Also a Ballard Rifle Co. (now defunct) in 30-40 which is probably the one firearm I've paid the most for; you've seen it in the Cruzans gun pic thread, but here's another gratuitous pic:

PICTURE CROPPED TO SAVE SPACE.

I still have a mess of leverguns even after selling off 15 or 16 Marlins. Again, they were purchased in the best condition possible given the price. I've passed up "cheaper" examples because they've been hammered, and I've walked by super-expensive NIB examples because the price was ridiculous even by Gunbroker asking price standards.

Noah

I chuckled at that in bold.. Those What Did You Buy threads are really his.

[knight0334]

If I were to win the lotto, there would certainly be some expensive shit ending up in the new gun room of a new house.

Top of the list include.
1. the previously mentioned H&H or Merkel, or both.
2. something that Turnbull has rebuilt and refinished.
3. a custom built Pennsylvania Rifle w/42"+ barrel in .50cal or .54cal, silver inlays, and all the fix'ns.
4. a top of the line Weatherby Mark V, maybe a couple of them in different calibers.
5. some Ballards like Noah has, or some Win/Browning highwalls, or some Sharps or other older single shots.
6. Marlin 1893/93 and 1894 leverguns, Winny 1892 and 94 lever guns
7. I can make this list ridiculously long.

However, until then I have to buy within my budget. ..which is paycheck to paycheck, that at certain times of the year is a month or two behind paycheck to paycheck due to corporate budget cuts on projects. Cheapo guns can make me happy as well. Whether I have bonfire money or not, I still like mouse guns, .32cal rifles/handguns, single shot rifles/shotguns and what many others consider as lesser desired things - I'd still buy them and whatever accessories/gear is needed for them.

The smart thing to do is buy things that don't have a massive cut in value the moment you take it out of the gun store. Most of the cheap shit doesn't lose as much value as a $5K-$6K Nighthawk Custom 1911 or $3000 FN SCAR does as soon as you walk through that door, neither of which will really regain that value in the long run(not in your lifetime). A $400-$800 AR platform rifle will do basically the same stuff as a $1200-$1500 AR rifle, without the larger value cut. The Phoenix Arms Raven 25acp that I bought at a pawnshop in Tampa and gave to my dad, which I inherited a couple years ago, is worth more(now at $100'ish) than I paid for it(used at $40+/-) in 1994. It really couldn't go any lower in value than the original price I paid.

If you have to borrow money just to buy something "better" than what would suffice without borrowing, that isn't financially a good idea. Especially if that loan will accrue interest. The only time doing that helps is when you're trying to build/maintain a credit rating.

[free]

If I won the Megamillions.....I'm not sure that I would buy a single gun. Maybe I would....but I don't have a list. I'd probably buy a home defense shotgun I guess.

[Ronin]

If I won serious Fuck You money in the lotto, I'd give most of it away. But I'd keep enough to live off of for the rest of my life and to acquire a bunch of new toys. First on that list would probably be an Ohio Ordnance 1918A3 BAR converted to a Colt Monitor.

1918A3-SLR-2.jpg

[DonBiase]

I sell some but not often. When I do it*s usually one I can easily sell and get a good return on, can*t do that often with home builds and cheaper stuff without taking a big loss.

Most of mine are just tools.
My hammer has to work Every time I need it.
No if's ands or buts.