Bullet seating question on JHP or FMJ bullets

[watson524]

Hi all,

Until now, I've only loaded lead RNFP or SWC bullets which have the groove to help guide seating depth. Wondering how you do that on jacketed bullets? Do I just go little by little until the OAL matches what I need?

Also - do you crimp on jacketed? I don't have seperate crimp dies but let me Lee dies do a bit of a crimp on the lead bullets and wasn't sure what to do on jacketed. I only expand the case JUST enough to get the bullet to sit there without tipping over when the cases are lined up in the tray.

thanks!

[SSCUSTER]

This may be the blind leading the blind as I am new to reloading. I have been using the method you described of going "little by little" until I reach the desired OAL. That is the method recommended in the booklet that came with my Hornady dies.

As for your crimping question, I will leave answering that to someone more experienced than I.

[knight0334]

(assuming you are referring to rimless cases) You taper crimp since you do not want a roll crimp on a semiauto rimless case. It pretty much squeezes the shit out of the case on the bullet. With autoloaders, you dont need a hard crimp. The magazine pretty much keeps the bullet from walking out of the case during recoil(what recoil there is with a auto).

On rimmed cases that headspace off the rim, a roll crimp into the knurling works. If you're using pills without knurls then a slight roll into the jacketing at the proper seating depth will hold most slugs just fine.

Even with bullets with knurling or those without, you're supposed to seat them within given OAL length specs, or to the manufacturer's given parameter.

[shooter357]

Hi all,

Until now, I've only loaded lead RNFP or SWC bullets which have the groove to help guide seating depth. Wondering how you do that on jacketed bullets? Do I just go little by little until the OAL matches what I need?

Also - do you crimp on jacketed? I don't have seperate crimp dies but let me Lee dies do a bit of a crimp on the lead bullets and wasn't sure what to do on jacketed. I only expand the case JUST enough to get the bullet to sit there without tipping over when the cases are lined up in the tray.

thanks!

Are you reloading rifle or pistol? I will take for granted that since you are belling that you are talking pistol. In any means, Do Not go over the OAL. I use a slight crimp on all my rounds, rifle or pistol. I have been given some advice not to long ago and tried the Lee factory crimp die. I use it on my .223 and it works great.

[WVBob]

I started putting a taper crimp on everthing about ten years ago and will not use a roll crimp any longer. Yes it does add another step but they feed every time. I set the seater for the die very deep and seat the bullet a little at a time until it where it should be. Then I back the seater out and crimp. When the crimp is right, with the shell in the die I turn the seater down to the bullet. Take a new case and bullet, seat it and check OAL. Then taper crimp.

[Lycanthrope]

We need to know what caliber and gun or the information could be wrong.

Lycanmorepleasethrope

[watson524]

These would be on .38 spl, .357 magnum, .40 S&W and .45 colt

thanks!

[Lycanthrope]

With heavy recoil revolvers, many people use a roll crimp into the cannelure so bullets do not walk forward from the casings during recoil. Otherwise a taper crimp to the cannelure is fine.

Most semi auto calibers of moderate power use a taper crimp and do not need a cannelure on the bullet.

For semi auto's I prefer to let the gun tell me what OAL to use. I start long and bring the OAL of a dummy round down until I cannot stall the cartridge on the feed ramp by hand walking the slide through the feeding process. Be advised that longer OAL's will reduce pressure for a recommended load and shorter OAL's will increase pressure.

Lycannowwe'retalkingthrope