Ulrtasonic Advice

[marstev]

I am looking to purchase an ultrasonic cleaner and interested in hearing a little of what others have experienced. Going to start with a smaller one, Lyman Turbo Sonic TS-2500 since it seems to have slightly more room than the Hornady equivalent.

I have read elsewhere that you are not supposed to clean aluminum parts in such a way because it will weaken them? So I guess this would slightly limit what I can use it for, but no issues with steel and brass as far as I have seen? One of my first uses will be trying to clean up a small cap and ball revolver that has a brass frame. What about AR uppers and lowers? While I have read that aluminum should be verboten, I have seen pictures and videos of people cleaning AR uppers?

Another common comment is how there are other non-branded alternatives available out there for much cheeper. Any worth looking into? I'll likely still go with the Lyman for my first one, but certainly will be looking to upgrade to a larger one at some point. Hornady has an impressive one with a 9 liter capacity that I have considered, but still would like to go bigger.

[Misery Loves Shotguns]

I have the harbour freight cleaner too and use it sometimes for my AR BCG, 930 piston, etc. If you're getting your first one, try something like this first. I don't use mine often enough to justify what I spent on it. Regarding your question about aluminum, I put a BCM charging handle in it once and whatever the solution was I was using at the time fucked up the anodized finish. If you put your lower or upper in it, be very careful that the solution will not harm aluminum.

[Remington788]

I used it to clean polished steel and it fucked up the finish.

[Noah_Zark]

When cleaning aluminum you need to absolutely avoid alkaline (high pH) cleaning solutions, and strong acid (low pH) solutions. Acids will remove oxides, and anodizing is aluminum oxide. Standard commercial aluminum cleaners are mildly acidic to intentionally remove dulling aluminum oxide and make the component bright again. Unfortunately they remove anodizing.

Stick to cleaners that have a pH between 5 and 8, diluted and ready for use. Invest in some pH test strips (litmus paper) in both acid and alkaline ranges to check your solutions. It's very inexpensive.

Noah

[JustinR]

Pick the biggest one you think you'll use and then go up 50%. I bought a 3qt with On, Timer, and heat - if I'd known everything I'd use it for, I would have bought a 5-6qt with emphasis on the longest dimension of the unit, preferably about 18".

[TooBigToFit]

I have the RCBS one. Having a drain valve makes it a lot less of a pain in the ass to clean.

[Hodgie]

Got one of these on sale. Used it for over three years now no problems.

I use it for my suppressors. The baffles come out perfectly clean but you have to put a few in at a time and keep them in the center.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lit...ner-63256.html

I've had this model and used it heavily for about 8 years now and it's been excellent. It's a must have if you collect and restore a lot of surplus firearms covered in cosmoline. I never got nuts about specific cleaning solutions having always used simple green concentrate and water. I have never ruined a part of a finish but can't remember if I have done anything aluminum.

[Hawk]

Takes way too long to do the job that you can do by other means.
Make sure you get one with a long enough timer to do the work you want it to do, otherwise it will shut off and you'll have to constantly (and remember to) go back and reset the timer.

[Bang]

Glad to learn of the purple Soylent Green, and the approximate amount to add to water. Onliest thing is, if crap is floating on the surface, how do you withdraw parts without recoating them?

[HKusp 45]

I have been doing some research on the same couple other things to touch on make sure your within the right frequency range 35-40 Hz (40 preferably.) I did come across this and I have been toying with the idea only because it would fit longer ar parts.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Bal...o-Parts/BE1232