Sending out compleated 80% AR Lower to be Anodized

[QuackXP]

I'm in the early planning stages of doing an 80% AR lower build.

If I wanted to order raw un-coated 80% lowers and do the work to create a functional lower. Could I have it anodized at a local company?

The issue I am looking at is once its finished its now a firearm and there may be a chain of custody issue if the company that does the anodizing does not have a FFL.

Or do they even need a FFL in this case?

Also any recomendations of where I can get this work done in Pittsburgh would be great.

[ExFlyinguy]

Just my .02 worth (I too have a raw lower). Why not buy some duracote/cerekote and go all in? At least that's what I am planning

In any event, there are probably lots of professional services that have all of the proper credentials to get you fixed up

[DucatiRon]

I can cerakote or duracoat a stripped raw lower pretty cheap if you decide to go that route.

[Berncly]

I am no expert as is well known, but this is what was explained to me.
Once you complete the receiver all FFL rules apply (unless you butcher it and end up with a useless hunk of metal like I did).
If the outside surface is already hardened, the interior cavity will still be raw exposed aluminum that is soft.
People send their builds out to be hardened, but the cost of anodizing the exposed interior cavity is expensive when compared to a budget build.
You don't need to harden the interior, but the receiver will not be as durable and will eventually fail at the stress points below the pin.

[QuackXP]

I am no expert as is well known, but this is what was explained to me.
Once you complete the receiver all FFL rules apply (unless you butcher it and end up with a useless hunk of metal like I did).
If the outside surface is already hardened, the interior cavity will still be raw exposed aluminum that is soft.
People send their builds out to be hardened, but the cost of anodizing the exposed interior cavity is expensive when compared to a budget build.
You don't need to harden the interior, but the receiver will not be as durable and will eventually fail at the stress points below the pin.

When I do this I'm going to order a 3 pack of lowers. The best one will be reserved for higher end components and ill be willing to spend the money to get it anodized. Assuming its not not outrageous (like $1000). This is also assuming I don't fuck all three of them up.

The other two I might go with a lesser/cheaper/DYI solution.

[Berncly]

When I do this I'm going to order a 3 pack of lowers. The best one will be reserved for higher end components and ill be willing to spend the money to get it anodized. Assuming its not not outrageous (like $1000). This is also assuming I don't fuck all three of them up.

The other two I might go with a lesser/cheaper/DYI solution.

If I remember right, ballpark to professionally anodize a receiver was about $250, something like that, maybe a bit more.
I think there was a Poofa guy that posted some prices once, but I could be wrong.
I never got that far since I Berncly'd my project :0

[Gunsnwater]

I am no expert as is well known, but this is what was explained to me.
Once you complete the receiver all FFL rules apply (unless you butcher it and end up with a useless hunk of metal like I did).
If the outside surface is already hardened, the interior cavity will still be raw exposed aluminum that is soft.
People send their builds out to be hardened, but the cost of anodizing the exposed interior cavity is expensive when compared to a budget build.
You don't need to harden the interior, but the receiver will not be as durable and will eventually fail at the stress points below the pin.

I believe from the first cut it is nolonger an 80 and is considered a lower and that is regardless of it working or not.

Anodizing is not hard. Battery acid and a power supply. Dye is optional. Boiling water bath or steaming to close pours finishes it. Google it.

[Gunsnwater]

I am no expert as is well known, but this is what was explained to me.
Once you complete the receiver all FFL rules apply (unless you butcher it and end up with a useless hunk of metal like I did).
If the outside surface is already hardened, the interior cavity will still be raw exposed aluminum that is soft.
People send their builds out to be hardened, but the cost of anodizing the exposed interior cavity is expensive when compared to a budget build.
You don't need to harden the interior, but the receiver will not be as durable and will eventually fail at the stress points below the pin.

Any work done on an 80 makes it not an 80. From the first home cut it is now under ffl rules. Ianal. This is what has been explained to me by lawyers in law classes, subject to my lay understanding.

Lots of YouTube videos on anodizing. Not hard compared to turning an 80 into a built lower. Just all sciencey and unknown like building an upper until you do it.

Hard anodizing is just a thicker layer. Anodizing is self limiting as it doesn't conduct.

[USMC3531]

Any work done on an 80 makes it not an 80. From the first home cut it is now under ffl rules. Ianal. This is what has been explained to me by lawyers in law classes, subject to my lay understanding.

Lots of YouTube videos on anodizing. Not hard compared to turning an 80 into a built lower. Just all sciencey and unknown like building an upper until you do it.

Hard anodizing is just a thicker layer. Anodizing is self limiting as it doesn't conduct.

Type3 hardcoat is twice or more thick than type2 and requires different procedures. https://www.caswellplating.com/anodi...ng-system.html

[abner13]

Any work done on an 80 makes it not an 80. From the first home cut it is now under ffl rules. Ianal. This is what has been explained to me by lawyers in law classes, subject to my lay understanding.

Lots of YouTube videos on anodizing. Not hard compared to turning an 80 into a built lower. Just all sciencey and unknown like building an upper until you do it.

Hard anodizing is just a thicker layer. Anodizing is self limiting as it doesn't conduct.

Hard-coat anodizing has extremely fine aluminum oxide powder (pulverized grinding wheel material) in the solution. IIRC , The particles take a charge and 'arc' themselves to the base metal. Makes for a Rockwell 70c hard skin. A high-speed toolbit is 65c. I've done parts and they would spark when a toolbit or drill would