Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association
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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    814, Pennsylvania
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    Default Re: Keeping Surplus Rifle Stocks Healthy

    Thew only trouble with the BLO as it applies to the O.P is , he said about not changing the wood much.
    How much is much , because after some time they will get that reddish color ...... most want that color but if O.P doesn't...............
    I had a beautiful blonde stock on a rifle and after some years that baby is now as red as a redheaded step child

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    814, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    918
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    9430368

    Default Re: Keeping Surplus Rifle Stocks Healthy

    I dug out a bottle of stuff I use to protect stock without change ........... it's Formby's Tung oil finish.
    I had to mail order it as no one had it in stock.
    I happen to use low gloss ........... has not yellowed or changed the wood..... I actually use this on my Laminated stocks.

    If you do choose BLO , I'd suggest raw linseed oil , I use flax oil from the health food hippie store ........ and mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits.
    It's more forgiving than BLO and if you botch up the BLO job ...... you'll know it.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Quakertown, Pennsylvania
    (Bucks County)
    Posts
    5,878
    Rep Power
    21474856

    Default Re: Keeping Surplus Rifle Stocks Healthy

    Quote Originally Posted by Delkal View Post
    Here is my stock refinishing procedure that I wrote up for a friend.....found it on my computer. This is for a very dry stock to get a glass smooth stock like on a quality old school rifle. A few light coats is usually fine if you just want to refresh an old stock.

    Use only pure Linseed (Boiled is preferable) or pure Tung oil mixed 1:1 with turpentine (read the ingredients label!) Most commercial "Tung oils" contain little, if any, Tung oil. They are rubbing varnishes. The trick with these oils is to put as much as the stock will absorb , let it sit about an hour, rub everything in by hand, let it sit again, then WIPE IT ALL OFF and let it sit overnight. Only the oil absorbed by the wood will harden and fill the pores. Repeat this every day until there are no places on the wood that keep absorbing the finish or open pores (Days, weeks, or until you get tired of doing it). Towards the end it will take only a few drops to 1/2 teaspoon, just keep rubbing it in by hand, let it sit, then wipe it ALL off. By then you should see no open pores or dry spots.

    Now here's the secret.......let the stock dry for a week or two, take some fine steel wool and rub all of the dried oil off!!!! Yes, I said rub off all of your hard work! This will only remove the surface oxidized “dead” excess oil. The wood underneath will be saturated with all of the pores filled. Follow up with a few drops fresh oil and start rubbing. The stock will glow!

    This is the classic oil finish and in my opinion cannot be duplicated. Few people will do this commercially any more because of the time involved. Its just a few minutes each day, but it can take weeks depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. This is also an original finish. The same thing happens over YEARS when GI's keep oiling the stocks for inspections.
    This will give your stock the look of a fine classic old Rifle or Shotgun. No open pores and a totally smooth surface where every detail of the grain shows through. Not too shiny either.

    PS…..Never keep the used oiled rags in a pile, they can generate heat and spontaneously ignite! If its just one small rag I just lay it on a concrete floor. Not enough heat is concentrated and it shouldn't (hopefully) catch fire. Or store them soaking in water in a metal container and make sure it NEVER dries. Or, best yet, just go out back and burn them in your grill.
    I personally like the tung oil finish. I used to get it from this guy in Qtown before he moved to NC.

    I cut it with his citrus solvent and had great results.

    https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/

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