How can you tell when a barrel is "shot out"?

**Hokkmike** · June 22nd, 2019, 08:36 AM

I was looking some older Winchester Model 94's in .32 Special.

A 1958 model had rifling that was barely discernible to the eye. The bore was clean and shiny with no apparent rust or other corrosion but the lines of the rifling were thin and pencil like. The exterior of the gun and wood was very good for its age. The metal about 93% and the wood contained one or two small dings. Oddly, the fore stock and butt stock, while having the same grain, seemed ever so slightly off color which each other, the fore stock being a bit lighter than the butt stock. The owner assured me that they were both original wood.

An other M-94 date 1906 had much more distinct rifling that looked like a bold edition of what I saw in the first gun. The metal finish on this gun was about 65-70% (I am no expert). The wood was pretty good with no obvious dings or cracks.

A third model 94 that I looked at, Pre-64 but I don't know the year - I THINK 1927, had a bore so bright and shiny and clean that it was if I was looking in a mirror and could not see any rifling at all. I do not recall the exterior condition of this rifle.

I wish I could post pictures but just looking down the bores to inspect the rifling was hard enough. I used two methods. #1.- I placed a bore light directly in the open action and moved it around until I got the best view. #2.- I placed white tissue in the open action and reflected the light off the tissue into the bore. Each time I looked though the muzzle end to try to see the lines of rifling.

Here is my question. Would you conclude from my observations that the second gun, the 1906 mfg, has the best barrel and therefore would be the best of the three to purchase? This, assuming all actions and other parts moved easily and without being loose, etc.?

All advice and comments are welcomed. Thank you all.....

**MARINE DIVISION TWO** · June 22nd, 2019, 09:07 AM

Accuracy would be poor,Barrel would appear smoothbore,chamber is allowing brass and lead to spit out of chamber or forcing cone !

**USMC3531** · June 22nd, 2019, 12:03 PM

You could do the "bullet test" stick a live round into the muzzle if it goes in till it touches the case good chances are it is "shot out"

**Hokkmike** · June 22nd, 2019, 12:10 PM

Thanks to both Marines for your answers. And thank you for your service!

**Xringshooter** · June 22nd, 2019, 01:24 PM

I have my dads Model 94 and it was purchased new in 1948. This gun I happen to know the round count (I was taught by my dad and granddad that it was one shot-one kill, none of this spray and pray). It has less than 200 rounds through it. The most we put through it at one time was when he wanted to put a scope on it (when he turned 68) and that was maybe 7 or 8. The wood is in great shape and the only wear on the metal is around the loading gate where it is worn from loading and around where the s/n is from carrying it for years without a sling. This was the only gun he ever hunted deer with. When I got it from him about five years ago (he was 85 and stopped deer hunting when he was 82) I took the scope and mount off to put it back into the original configuration. This is one gun that won't go anywhere other than to heirs. The rifling is sharp, the bore is bright and you can see the contours of the lands and grooves distinctly.

From your description it looks that the 1927 model has had a lot of rounds through it and with no rifling to be seen, it's out of the hunt. The 1958 probably as well as the lack of discernible rifling would equate to a lot of rounds through it. Depending on what you're going to do with it, the 1906 model might be your best bet. The wood and metal can be refurbished but rifling cannot other than to make it into a different caliber.

**Hokkmike** · June 23rd, 2019, 07:05 AM

Thanks and salute to a fellow Airman!

(Sure would love to sweet talk you out of that '48 but I guess I know better. Enjoy!)

**abner13** · June 23rd, 2019, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by USMC3531

You could do the "bullet test" stick a live round into the muzzle if it goes in till it touches the case good chances are it is "shot out"

Hmmm , not necessarily. Most muzzle wear comes from improper cleaning from the muzzle. M1 Garands are notorious for this due to the USGI sectional cleaning rods. They're Parkerized which is very hard and abrasive , and the sections rarely line up perfectly.

.32 Win Specials have always been known for rather skimpy rifling. Read many articles on this thru the years. Many opinions on the reason.

Many bores may look 'shot out' , but are just fouled by bullet/jacket material. A trained eye and bore scope can tell. You will see the wear and heat cracks in the steel lands of the rifling. Mainly seen in rifles with much higher velocity. Some magazines have shown barrels cut in half to show the details and differences.

**USMC3531** · June 23rd, 2019, 04:04 PM

Originally Posted by abner13

Hmmm , not necessarily. Most muzzle wear comes from improper cleaning from the muzzle. M1 Garands are notorious for this due to the USGI sectional cleaning rods. They're Parkerized which is very hard and abrasive , and the sections rarely line up perfectly.

.32 Win Specials have always been known for rather skimpy rifling. Read many articles on this thru the years. Many opinions on the reason.

Many bores may look 'shot out' , but are just fouled by bullet/jacket material. A trained eye and bore scope can tell. You will see the wear and heat cracks in the steel lands of the rifling. Mainly seen in rifles with much higher velocity. Some magazines have shown barrels cut in half to show the details and differences.

Yes you can get muzzle wear from cleaning, my point is accuracy will suffer the same as if it was "shot out" also most guns will have throat and muzzle erosion before all the rifling disappears.