Reloading question

[Bang]

My post is a copy and paste of the Hodgdon reloading site. I didn't make it up.

[mrat]

Not trying to hurt anyone in the least bit, I can't afford the ER. I picked up 4895 so I could use 1 powder for 223 & 243 rather than having 2 separate rifle powders

CFE223, H335, and Varget can all be used in .223 AND .243. Or now, save the H4895 for the .243 and get one of the powders mentioned.

[DukeConnor]

Not trying to hurt anyone in the least bit, I can't afford the ER. I picked up 4895 so I could use 1 powder for 223 & 243 rather than having 2 separate rifle powders

I didn't mean to be a dick. I was being a bit dramatic. But bad stuff does happen. 4895 is a very versatile powder and many have used it in 5.56.

A friend claims it is the most acurate powder in his 223 bolt rifle.

Slow and careful load development is the key to using powder that is "outside the norm".

He developed his loads using a chrono and watching for pressure signs.

A load book showing only one grain between min and max charges tells me to run away.

If you don't own a chrono and quickloads I suggest getting a different powder.

[mikeybonez28]

My post is a copy and paste of the Hodgdon reloading site. I didn't make it up.

Wasn't implying you did. Hodgdon's site & book have 3 55gr loads calling for H4895:

55gr Barnes TSX FB 21-22.6gr 2.180 OAL
55gr Sfire (fragmenting) 22-24.6C (Yes I know C is compressed) 2.220 OAL
55gr SPR SP 25-26 2.200 OAL

Apparantly, the 55gr Hornady Soft Point BT AMP projectiles I have don't compare to the Speer 55gr Soft Points

Given the 3 loads, I'll start from the low end of 21gr and work it up to the 24.6 and find a sweet spot.

I plan on getting a chrony in the near future but it's out of my budget right now

[mikeybonez28]

I didn't mean to be a dick. I was being a bit dramatic. But bad stuff does happen. 4895 is a very versatile powder and many have used it in 5.56.

A friend claims it is the most acurate powder in his 223 bolt rifle.

Slow and careful load development is the key to using powder that is "outside the norm".

He developed his loads using a chrono and watching for pressure signs.

A load book showing only one grain between min and max charges tells me to run away.

If you don't own a chrono and quickloads I suggest getting a different powder.

Didn't take you as being a dick, you're looking out for me, bluntly. I wasn't trying to push boundaries, there are 3 different 55gr loads with h4895 & apparently I picked the wrong one.

I keep hearing about Quickloads but I haven't looked into it as of yet. As I said in my last reply, I'll load up from 21gr and watch for any tell tail signs. It was ejecting around 2.30 & throwing the brass about 6 feet but I figured it was because I was using a full powered load versus the steel cased crap & F&S brass cased I used before

[Bang]

Consider the Caldwell G2. Bluetooth connects and records in your phone. Built "upside-down", reduces the lighting problems found with canopy-above types. I love it.

[Delkal]

With a slower powder like 4895 it will be difficult to be overpressure with a 55 grain bullet. How did you even fit 25 grains in the case? Was it compressed or did you use a drop tube. A stick powder like 4895 does not compress well. Even at that load you are likely way under the published velocity with a shorter AR barrel. A smaller load of a faster powder will easily give you an extra 100 fps. Get a chrony.

You never answered my first question. Is this military brass and did you swadge the primer pocket crimp? I have a feeling that is the answer. If not my next guess is
over resizing or a headspace problem. You rarely run into pressure problems with a SLOWER powder (just reduced velocity and short stroking).

[mikeybonez28]

With a slower powder like 4895 it will be difficult to be overpressure with a 55 grain bullet. How did you even fit 25 grains in the case? Was it compressed or did you use a drop tube. A stick powder like 4895 does not compress well. Even at that load you are likely way under the published velocity with a shorter AR barrel. A smaller load of a faster powder will easily give you an extra 100 fps. Get a chrony.

You never answered my first question. Is this military brass and did you swadge the primer pocket crimp? I have a feeling that is the answer. If not my next guess is
over resizing or a headspace problem. You rarely run into pressure problems with a SLOWER powder (just reduced velocity and short stroking).

IDK how it fit, I FL sized the brass, die to ram, no gap, might have been slightly compressed but at the time I double checked the figures I used and verified my powder scale (Lee perfect powder scale) after throwing the charge to the scale via dipper. Did not use a drop tube but after I threw the charge I tapped the case a few times on the bench to settle the charge

I missed your question before, sorry. I am using a mixed bag of brass. I used a countersink to remove the crimp but I'll be ordering a proper tool.

I'm using all Lee equipment including dies. Dies are in individual breech lock bushings & it's a Lee Full length sized, Lee Dead Set Bullet seater & factory crimp.

[Delkal]

It sounds like you are doing everything correct. Can you post some pictures of the primer? With low pressure loads the primer indent can look deeper because there is not enough pressure to straighten it out compared to a factory load. Lee equipment is fine and I prefer their hand priming tool to RCBS. The primer should seat smoothly with just a slight finger pressure. If it doesn't start smoothly you didn't remove enough crimp. Then squeeze it a little harder to make sure the primer is flush with the case (but not caved in)


You might want to switch primers. For autoloading rifles with floating firing pins I use the CCI-41 primers. They have a thicker cup.

And I would just load the commercial cases without crimps for now.

[ExFlyinguy]

As already mentioned there is a difference between .223 Rem brass & 5.56 Nato brass

The .223 will say "223 Rem" on it, the 5.56 will have a little cross symbol (see pictures below). On the outside the brass is the same (all fits in the same chamber) the difference is in brass thickness and therefore capacity and pressures. You should sort your brass and the loads are different between 5.56/.223

.223 brass


5.56 brass



Here is the Hornady data from 9th edition for 55gn bullets