Reloading Class/Thread

[rkrcpa]

Obviously your budget will come into play but I agree with Delkal about the case tumbler. Simply wiping the case is enough when you're starting out. Same goes for the Lee case trimmer, I used that system for years before I moved up to a Lyman trimmer. I'm a firm believer in single stage processing when you're just starting out. It's way too easy to get out of sync, stick to sizing all of the cases first, then prime them, then charge the case etc. There is a learning curve, don't try to speed things up.

Bullet selection is critical, especially with smaller cases like the 9mm. Just because a bullet weighs the same does not mean it is the same as listed in the loading data. Make sure the bullet style/shape matches your data. A mentor is definitely a good idea if you can find one, sometimes you just don't know what you don't know.

[Walleye Hunter]

Thanks for all the help so far. There is pretty much to it and I can be slow to get it through my skull sometimes so I'm just easing my way in. I have a decent supply of live rounds in stock so I'm in no hurry and I have some brass that I can start cleaning up. I scored a used Lyman trimmer for a good price but I do also have a drill press and, even better, a lathe with a mill on it that might be better to use but that's out in the garage, the Lyman can be used anywhere. Anyhow, that's for later with the rifle casings, it doesn't sound like the 9mm is going to be an issue. Since I do have the Dillon press and it's a manual turn, I would like to use it. I think it does everything for me except for cleaning and trimming. I also need to go find my ammo hammer...I haven't seen that since I moved.

[ExFlyinguy]

Damn - When you go, you go BIG referring to the Dillion That's top shelf stuff right there. I'm just a lowly Lee man.

Lots of great advice already- here's my 3 cents

I bought digital weight scale, and a digital caliper. The caliper has already stopped working, and the weight scale seems to vary +/- .2 especially when trying to trickle the powder.

I ultimately switched to "dial" caliper, and a RCBS 505 beam scale for the best accuracy.

Bought a powder trickler but never use it because it is faster for me just to tap the powder scoop and trickle that way.

Case gauges for damn near everything I reload. Most of mine are Lymans. I did get a Lyman .300BLK that was out of spec and sent it back. Ultimately bought a "Sheridan" cut away for that cartridge- mostly because I convert my .300blk brass from 5.56

My cleaning is done in a Frankford Arsenal tumbler with crushed walnut media I got off Amazon. If I want it really shiney I throw a cap full of Nu Finish car polish in.

You can get a lot of great deals of the basic stuff on Amazon.

I'm betting you will be tickled (but incredibly spoiled) with that Dillion

*ETA: You're killing my OCD putting this in gunsmithing forum and not the "Reloading" forum

[Walleye Hunter]

I have a good dial mic that I'll use and I did look for a 'reloading' forum, honest. If there is one and someone wants to slide this over into I wouldn't care.

[Delkal]

Your Dillon is perfect for pistol rounds. With pistol you would need to run each case thru a single stage at least 3 times (size, flair, seat bullet). I also use the lee taper crimp for most pistols so that would be 4 times. Try and load a few hundred rounds on a single stage and it can turn into work.

But. A progressive is a lot less useful for bottle neck rifle cartridges. Especially when you are working up loads or not reloading hundreds of rounds. With rifle the case goes thru only 2 times once to size (then you inspect the cases and trim). Then once to seat the bullet. I have a Dillon too but still load most of my rifle cartridges on my single stage. Especially my precision loads. The only time I use a progressive for rifle is for "bulk" ammo like .223, 30 carbine where it is good to have a few ammo cans of them full. For making 50 rounds of .308 go with a single stage.

[Walleye Hunter]

Can I use this thing like a single stage?

[aubie515]

Why are so many of these reloading threads in "gunsmithing"...there is a reloading forum and you have been on this forum for years.

I would learn reloading on a single stage vs a progressive, but that's just me. Reloading in volume is good, but when you are new to reloading, there is a learning curve. Making sure you know the fundamentals is very important.

Not sure if you are still looking for a tumbler, but I have one as I moved to the FART and prefer using SS.

[Delkal]

Can I use this thing like a single stage?

Yes you can. You can size rifle cases on the first stage. Then wipe off the lube and trim and prep the cases. Then run them thru again (with the sizer out) to prime, charge and seat. This is usually what I do for my "bulk" ammo where I already have a good load worked up. But I size everything on a single stage.

Where a single stage press and separate powder dispenser is better is when working up loads. It is much faster to change the powder weight and vary bullet seating. When working up charges I start low and will load 5 rounds of each increasing charge. This would be a PITA with a progressive and there is more room for error. It also takes a while to set up a progressive. Figure at least 1/2 an hour to change the shellplates and adjust everything (especially when you are starting out). Once you have a good load you will make up the setup time quickly when loading hundreds of rounds. But you don't want to set a progressive up to just make 20 rounds for testing.

[abner13]

A digital or dial caliper is probably more useful than a mic. I've had a Dillon FL2000 tumbler for over 25yrs. Fine walnut media gets the dirtiest cases clean in only an hour or two. Dillon themselves are the best resource for info and stuff. Very , very helpful.

[Walleye Hunter]

One advantage to buying used, and sort of essential for me is that it came with four quick change set-ups, I guess they're shellplates?

Here's a pic of my first batch of cleaned brass. I used hot water, Dawn dish soap and a couple glugs of ammonia in a deep bowl. I have always liked ammonia as a cleaner. Now if my cat just doesn't have a party with them...And now I guess I can inspect and measure, are there any tricks to inspection to be wary of? And of course I'll segregate those that I believe are crimped.

Cleaned brass.JPG