Reloading Class/Thread

[Walleye Hunter]

And I looked again and still can't find the reloading department here, sometimes it's right in front of me and I still can't see stuff.

[gghbi]

And I looked again and still can't find the reloading department here, sometimes it's right in front of me and I still can't see stuff.

http://forum.pafoa.org/forumdisplay.php?f=25

[Delkal]

One advantage to buying used, and sort of essential for me is that it came with four quick change set-ups, I guess they're shellplates?

The shellplate is the part where the cases go. The "quick change" top part where the 4 dies screw in is the toolhead. It is handy having some dedicated ones.

I used hot water, Dawn dish soap and a couple glugs of ammonia in a deep bowl.

DO NOT use ammonia. It will weaken the brass. You are OK just once but don't do it anymore. If your cases have to be shiny use citric acid (Lemishine) The procedures I saw heated the water some and the cases were clean in a couple minutes. Search it.

[Walleye Hunter]

http://forum.pafoa.org/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Danka, I never would have thought of looking in there (obviously).

[Walleye Hunter]

Mic'd and inspected the batch and pulled out the Win casings, I am concerned that the ammonia cleaned out the red dye around the crimped primers. I have read that some guys say that they don't even measure 9mm as the mouths will fracture before they stretch out of spec. Any input on that part?

Oh, and what happens if a crimped primer casing gets missed and it gets into a progressive machine?

[Gunsnwater]

Smashed primer. Could go bang. Hasn’t gone bang for me yet.

[Delkal]

I never measure any straight walled pistol cases.

The problem with 9mm is that you will get an occasional .380 or 9x18 case mixed in your range pickup. You have to sort them carefully. The way I do it is put a bunch of cases in a shallow pan, shake them and it will turn most of the cases mouth side up, pick them out and. put them on a flat surface. Then use a straight edge like a ruler and push the cases from the side so they are all together and touching like a beehive cone (kind of hard to describe). Look at them from the side and you can see the ones that are a millimeter or two shorter. Pick them out.

Unfortunately you are still not done. Some newer cases have a thick wall stepped interior to prevent bullet setback. But these also have less case capacity (so higher pressure) and your bullet might not seat correctly. You need to pick them out too. Use a flashlight and shine it in each case when they are all together. You will occasionally see some with the step. Pick them out and trash them too.

Sounds like fun yet? To make matters even worse you get the least financial reward for loading 9mm. Factory loads are dirt cheap. But reload a 45 Colt where new cast loads cost $1-2 each then reloading is essential. I cast my own bullets so cowboy loads cost about 6 cents a shot. The magnum very hot loaded rounds might cost me 25 cents each.

Not saying you shouldn't reload. For me reloading and shooting is one and the same. I have not bought factory in decades.

[Walleye Hunter]

As I continue on my mission I am now at the point of choosing a powder to use and would like to hear what works and what doesn't work and why. Over the years I acquired a box of 115gr 9mm bullets of unknown mfg and a box of Winchester small pistol primers. They have been stored dry and I expect that they are all good. Is there anything I should be concerned with about these bullets? I also still need a scale and a loading manual. With the Oaks Gun Show coming up I expect to shop for these items there.

I also seem to have gathered 3 100 rd boxes of JHP's. One each from Speer, Hornady XTP and Remington. The first two are .355 in diameter and the latter is .354 for whatever their reason is. The Hornadies look the most effective. Those are for another day but I would like to hear if they would get the same powder as the plain FMJ's.

Thanks for the help and sorry 'bout cluttering up the gunsmithing forum with my reloading thread.

[rkrcpa]

Be aware that there are differences in bullets of the same weight and load data does not necessarily transfer between the various bullets. Try to find load data for the particular bullet rather than generic data when ever possible. Powder selection can drive you insane with all the choices. Best to pick an old favorite to get started, gain some experience and then start to experiment.

[gghbi]

Choosing a powder is mostly dependent on what caliber you are reloading, then on what bullet. Based on your discussion you are looking for options for 9 mm Luger loads with 115 grain bullets. As you become more learned on this you will find out about burn rates, powder shapes, and other interesting oddities that affect cartridge performance. Have fun and don't be intimidated by all that will come your way.

My experience is in the 45 ACP realm, so I cannot give you 9 mm suggestions specifically, but I always liked Bullseye which is one of the faster burning powders out there.
Always start out low and work your way up when starting a new load!

You can start with on line data such as:
https://www.alliantpowder.com/gettin...d/default.aspx
https://www.alliantpowder.com/resources/catalog.aspx
https://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...spx?powderid=1
Other powder makers have similar pages, and some bullet makers as well.

Looking at their data, Sport Pistol powder appears to be Alliant's offering aimed at your load.
https://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...2&cartridge=23