Sunday Night Rock Island Project

[bravo30]

I was thinking more about your pic of the top of the slide. There is pitting under there. You can easily file and sand it out but when you go to refinish it you will see where you sanded. Once you change the original surface the new parking or blueing won't be the same color as the parts you didn't sand. It will look worse when you are done. Your only choices (unless you Cerakote it) is to get all of the surface metal the same. Bead blasting is the best if you are parkerizing.

As for the other parts? To me they don't matter as much. Maybe it is from my milsurp days but I like seeing firearms with slightly mismatched parts. But each part has to have an even tone.

I’m not going to attempt the finish myself. I’ll send it out somewhere to have it done correctly. Like you said about the pitting showing through, I don’t want that to happen. It would drive me nuts.

[Xringshooter]

I actually like working on guns like that, no rush, take your time and bring them back to life. Maybe won't be perfect looking but will be a functional shooter.

As for the sights, you can find different stake on sights and upgrade from the old GI style. Or send it out to have a dovetail cut for a new front sight. Same with the rear sight, clean up the dovetail and no problems there.

Unless you take off a lot of metal, the pits will be evident. Cerakoting will fill in a lot, but not all the deeper ones. The abrasive blasting done prior to coating will help make them less evident but won't erase them.

This can turn out to be a pretty nice functional gun once your done.

[bravo30]

I actually like working on guns like that, no rush, take your time and bring them back to life. Maybe won't be perfect looking but will be a functional shooter.

As for the sights, you can find different stake on sights and upgrade from the old GI style. Or send it out to have a dovetail cut for a new front sight. Same with the rear sight, clean up the dovetail and no problems there.

Unless you take off a lot of metal, the pits will be evident. Cerakoting will fill in a lot, but not all the deeper ones. The abrasive blasting done prior to coating will help make them less evident but won't erase them.

This can turn out to be a pretty nice functional gun once your done.

these are the 2 worst spots. the top looks worse than it is in my opinion. im sure i can take it down with sand paper.

[Walleye Hunter]

these are the 2 worst spots. the top looks worse than it is in my opinion. im sure i can take it down with sand paper.

I think you're in for a surprise and even if you did sand it down that far you're going to have a gully there. If it means that much to you fill it in with something like JB weld or maybe someone else has a better filler in mind.

[bravo30]

I think you're in for a surprise and even if you did sand it down that far you're going to have a gully there. If it means that much to you fill it in with something like JB weld or maybe someone else has a better filler in mind.

i found this online...


''when in doubt Tig to the rescue - if those are impact marks / stampings a light pass with a Tig welder - no fill material - will most often resurface it and as you aren't adding any metal that isn't a different alloy it will still blue or parkerize without discolorations showing in the finish. Kinda like using an eraser''

[bravo30]

then this:


All-Metal


Repair metal with metal—instead of lead—using USC® All-Metal

-Can be drilled or tapped
-Aluminum-based filler
-Rustproof and waterproof
-Includes hardener
-Ideal for your restoration projects, USC's All-Metal offers excellent adhesion to metals (even stainless) and wood.

https://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-2-1-lb.html

[bravo30]

i'm already in the RED on this project just from research and i haven't even ordered parts yet.

[Hodgie]

I say blast the surface even and refinish it in your chosen method and what ever scaring us left will just give it character especially since it’s going to be a shooter.

I’ve done lots of heavy putted/rusted parts in the blast cabinet with aluminum oxide media and then a black oxide refinish bath.

[Xringshooter]

I say blast the surface even and refinish it in your chosen method and what ever scaring us left will just give it character especially since it’s going to be a shooter.

I’ve done lots of heavy putted/rusted parts in the blast cabinet with aluminum oxide media and then a black oxide refinish bath.

That's what I was thinking, the aluminum oxide will smooth out a lot of those pits and then if Cerakoted a lot will disappear when the Cerakote fills the shallower ones. It's going to be a shooter, you're not taking it back to NIB condition. I would bet most people wouldn't notice anything major once you get done.

[bravo30]

That's what I was thinking, the aluminum oxide will smooth out a lot of those pits and then if Cerakoted a lot will disappear when the Cerakote fills the shallower ones. It's going to be a shooter, you're not taking it back to NIB condition. I would bet most people wouldn't notice anything major once you get done.

i was leaning towards Parkerizing it myself.