How to fix revolver trigger slap

[Brick]

I'm talking about when the trigger resets after firing a shot. I got peeved and tightened the strain screw in my old Model 25-2 so it fires CCI primers without a hitch. BUT the trigger return is now nearly painful! For years I had this and other revolvers set to fire Federal primers exclusively. But Federal has screwed that up by not being readily available. So now I'm considering replacing the trigger rebound spring with a slightly lighter spring. Thoughts?

[Pizza Bob]

Sounds like a plan. I'd go 13#, that should still give you positive reset and maybe not bite you as badly.

Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

[Brick]

I've a spring replacement kit coming in from Wolff. I'll let you know how successful the "operation" turns out.

[Pizza Bob]

I've a spring replacement kit coming in from Wolff. I'll let you know how successful the "operation" turns out.

If the kit you have coming includes a new mainspring with a "power rib" and you intend to install it, you should also install a longer strain screw since the end of the screw bears in the middle of the rib, effectively lessening the amount of "strain" and lightening the hammer blow. An 8-32x1/2 Allen head set screw and some loc-tire will do the job.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

[Gunsnwater]

Hammer spring effects pull weight. It's out of the picture once the hammer drops. Rebound resets the trigger. Is the trigger serrated? Is it a wide target? Wide and smooth trigger face is better. Possible that the recoil is shoving the gun back and away from your trigger finger and then the rebound spring is flicking the trigger out to your finger. Are you shooting single action? I don't see this happening with a heavy double action pull. I know arthritis and age do some nasty tricks on us. Try a shooting glove?

[Brick]

If the kit you have coming includes a new mainspring with a "power rib" and you intend to install it, you should also install a longer strain screw since the end of the screw bears in the middle of the rib, effectively lessening the amount of "strain" and lightening the hammer blow. An 8-32x1/2 Allen head set screw and some loc-tire will do the job.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Yes it is a "power rib". I didn't notice that as a problem with the power rib spring I just installed in my Model 10 - 8. I did that because it wouldn't light any primer except Federal's. I spent some time with it last week and backed off the strain screw to the point where it has reduced pull weight and is still reliable with CCI. I might use your Allen head suggestion above as a replacement after shortening it to the right length.

[Brick]

Hammer spring effects pull weight. It's out of the picture once the hammer drops. Rebound resets the trigger. Is the trigger serrated? Is it a wide target? Wide and smooth trigger face is better. Possible that the recoil is shoving the gun back and away from your trigger finger and then the rebound spring is flicking the trigger out to your finger. Are you shooting single action? I don't see this happening with a heavy double action pull. I know arthritis and age do some nasty tricks on us. Try a shooting glove?

Nearly all my revolver shooting is double action. And yes now that I'm 72 y.o. my hands have become more sensitive to recoil. Sometimes they get bad enough I have to use a hot paraffin wax bath to ease them. That is why I've been searching for lighter weight bullets and loads that just crack the IDPA PF. But what I notice seems strictly a function of the trigger's return. In fact it happens when dry firing also.

[Brick]

Just finished a little fenipulation (that's a combination of finagling and manipulation) with the M10. I wanted to see how much I'd backed out the strain screw and get its overall length. I didn't really want to remove the screw to measure it so I used my caliper and measured from the screw head to the back of the power rib and got 0.646" then measured the thickness of the spring including the rib for 0.071", then subtracting I'm left with the screw length as 0.575" as the screw oal. The screw head sticks above the frame 0.021" so the desired length would be 0.545". A few days ago I'd received a new strain screw which I intended to shorten and use to replace the old screw, which I'd keep in case a another replacement was needed. I'm glad I decided to check the new screw's length because it turned out to be only 0.495". I think I'll just leave the strain screw backed off as is though I might add a dab of nail polish on it to keep it from moving because of recoil.

[Brick]

If the kit you have coming includes a new mainspring with a "power rib" and you intend to install it, you should also install a longer strain screw since the end of the screw bears in the middle of the rib, effectively lessening the amount of "strain" and lightening the hammer blow. An 8-32x1/2 Allen head set screw and some loc-tire will do the job.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Oddly enough the strain screws are not 1/2". The one in my Model 25-2 measures 0.411" and I'm not sure the half inch set screw you mention would work especially if it needs to shortened. The strain screw's threads do not extend to theend of the screw there's a very noticeable section of bare unthreaded rod near the end that bears on the hammer spring. Shortening the set screw could cause the loss of the taper at the end where the thread starts.