300aac Cast or Plated

[Nate7667]

Well there is cast, and there is coated cast.
As Tim said earlier, cast is fine, unless you have a burr from the drilling of the gas port. Which you will remove all types of bullet no matter what you shoot through that bore; copper, lead, plated, powder coat.

DucatiRon makes good stuff. I use his and Leatherhead Bullets. Which ever i can get cheaper when i need them.
One local shop carries Ron's product. I need to drive to his place and just buy a few (5-8)thousand and be done.

One big mistake guys make with reloading coated cast, and plated, is too much crimp. If you crimp the case hard enough to break through the coating, you've defeated the purpose of it.
Shooters on other forums had this issue when low cost coated 220s became popular a few years ago. They had take-down cans though, and were finding a decent amount of lead build up on their baffles.
300Blk subs are a low enough pressure round, when you crimp it to close up the belled case mouth you made to seat it, do it just enough to get a smooth case mouth. No need to taper it like a standard round.

In my earlier post, I was answering brian's question about the aftermath of lead inside a sealed suppressor.
I should have added the info i just did above about crimping to that post as well. Just because.

The coated ones I've shot have zero issue with the gas system. If you do have an issue, that's easy to fix/clean/repair. Hammer, punch, and a few min and gas tube is out, block is off and can be cleaned.
You will probably loose more money in lost 300Blk brass out of an AR than it will be worth your time tearing down your gas system to clean it every who-knows how many rounds.

Plan your loading accordingly to what you want to shoot, and shoot it through later on.

On your earlier comment about your gas block. You really shouldn't need an adjustable gas block with a 300Blk set up, subs or supers.
What's you weapon spec's?
As for supers though a can, yeah they are "loud". But it's still better than no can at all

[rlms]

Well there is cast, and there is coated cast.
As Tim said earlier, cast is fine, unless you have a burr from the drilling of the gas port. Which you will remove all types of bullet no matter what you shoot through that bore; copper, lead, plated, powder coat.

DucatiRon makes good stuff. I use his and Leatherhead Bullets. Which ever i can get cheaper when i need them.
One local shop carries Ron's product. I need to drive to his place and just buy a few (5-8)thousand and be done.

One big mistake guys make with reloading coated cast, and plated, is too much crimp. If you crimp the case hard enough to break through the coating, you've defeated the purpose of it.
Shooters on other forums had this issue when low cost coated 220s became popular a few years ago. They had take-down cans though, and were finding a decent amount of lead build up on their baffles.
300Blk subs are a low enough pressure round, when you crimp it to close up the belled case mouth you made to seat it, do it just enough to get a smooth case mouth. No need to taper it like a standard round.

In my earlier post, I was answering brian's question about the aftermath of lead inside a sealed suppressor.
I should have added the info i just did above about crimping to that post as well. Just because.

The coated ones I've shot have zero issue with the gas system. If you do have an issue, that's easy to fix/clean/repair. Hammer, punch, and a few min and gas tube is out, block is off and can be cleaned.
You will probably loose more money in lost 300Blk brass out of an AR than it will be worth your time tearing down your gas system to clean it every who-knows how many rounds.

Plan your loading accordingly to what you want to shoot, and shoot it through later on.

On your earlier comment about your gas block. You really shouldn't need an adjustable gas block with a 300Blk set up, subs or supers.
What's you weapon spec's?
As for supers though a can, yeah they are "loud". But it's still better than no can at all

9 inch with a midwest flash can and a full mass bolt.

[Nate7667]

Pistol length gas system i would assume?
Definitely shouldn't need the adj gas block.
Gas port size?
What powder you planning on using?

Some barrel manufactures state that short of a "XX" size port in the barrel will not cycle subs without a can. Not enough back pressure. But the hole is large enough to get enough pressure to the bolt with a subsonic round with the aid of the can.
But they also would assume, as would i, that a barrel that short with that caliber would have a can hanging off the end of it.
The adj block could come in handy for that particular reason.

[Tim Ault]

If there isn't that much difference in price go with the plated or powder coated bullets . Honestly I love all things cast bullets but they are not that forgiving as plated or PC can they shoot just as well ? Sure but for someone that isn't that experienced shooting them in rifle calibers there's a learning curve same with anything reloading related . You do have some fouling from the lube that gets into the gas system with regular cast bullets but that's not really an issue and I've not had any stoppages from it even pushing 155 gr cast as fast as I could in the BO or in the 223 for that matter with lighter bullets of course .

[rlms]

If there isn't that much difference in price go with the plated or powder coated bullets . Honestly I love all things cast bullets but they are not that forgiving as plated or PC can they shoot just as well ? Sure but for someone that isn't that experienced shooting them in rifle calibers there's a learning curve same with anything reloading related . You do have some fouling from the lube that gets into the gas system with regular cast bullets but that's not really an issue and I've not had any stoppages from it even pushing 155 gr cast as fast as I could in the BO or in the 223 for that matter with lighter bullets of course .

Have some 300blk and h110. Probably stick with plated. Seems like they will be cleaner and less hassel to load .

[DucatiRon]

There is a large difference between coated cast and lubed cast. Unless its a full auto gun I cant justify the cost between coated and plated.

[NathanB]

Agreed. I shoot the shit out of coated. Especially for plinking ammo

[rlms]

There is a large difference between coated cast and lubed cast. Unless its a full auto gun I cant justify the cost between coated and plated.

Ron send me the price for 1m 220g. I neve saw it on your site.

[DucatiRon]

Ron send me the price for 1m 220g. I neve saw it on your site.

We do not post our prices on line yet. We have about 16 local dealers and try to keep them happy by not attracting sales to our manufacturing establishment. You can email us any time for a full price list.

The 220 grain 30 cal bullets are $150 for 1,000. I will cover the shipping and the tax for Pafoa members.

[DucatiRon]

Please do remember if this is the first time you are reloading coated cast bullets in a rifle you will need a separate expander die aside from the normal expander ball in the sizing die.

Some people just use a modified pistol die while others just buy the Lyman neck expander. It is important not to scrape the coating off while seating the bullet. Then fishing up with a factory crimp die to remove the bell from the mouth of the case.