Springfield 1873 Trapdoor Carbine

[Ecclectic Collector]

A decently cut down gun can still be a nice shooter and made to conform to Carbine appearance good enough to look really nice in your rack.

The secret is to do so in a way that won't make it into a fake that will be passed off as an original. The easiest way it to leave tell-tales that any collector will spot even if the gun looks overall correct.

I took a cut down and rebuilt it as a 1st issue carbine some years back.

I sold the Buffington rear sight and used the money to buy the older type sight. I added an original sling bar and ring proper for a carbine, and also replaced the front band with swivel with a carbine type band.

The front sight was not correct, but I left it as a tell-tale sign. I also left the fillet of wood visible where the cleaning rod used to be and the solid butt plate instead of the carbine's with the hinged cleaning rod in its butt.

The gun now looks good enough to pass in the rack for my living history stuff, but will not pass a close look. A knowledgeable person can spot in an instant.

I bought my gun nearly twenty years ago when cut down rifles like it could be had for about $300. I put another hundred dollars or so into the parts, less outright since I was able to sell/trade the front band and rear sight to fund other parts. A cut own rifle stock would be the biggest expense on your gun, but well worth the money if you want to keep it.

These days a real Trapdoor carbine is north of $1500, so yeah it was worth it for a neat piece I can still shoot. (Which I do from time to time)

[Bang]

I have an 1890 (per cartouche and other markers) with 1888 round bayonet, just about the last of the trapdoor productions. From 1884 on the receiver door will be stamped 1884.

I am able to shoot handloads using smokeless powder, but I wouldn't go smokeless in that '73. Black powder shooting is fine and not the problems many think.

If you do come to a point where you believe it safe to fire, an absolute must is to slug the bore. Bores vary considerably. My bore is .463". If I had not known that and fired .458" lead bullets in it, it would become a leaded mess. As it is, I paper-wrap .458s to achieve .464". The Wolfe book describes it.

[Ecclectic Collector]

Second what Bang has said.

Mine also has an oversize bore at around .463 with late enough serial number to be a low arch breechblock.

I don't personally think any of the .45-70 guns are limited to only blackpowder loads but having said that I load conservatively anyway. There are some nice low end loads with Unique powder and also Trail Boss that should work fine, but it will be your choice if you hand load. One bit of added advice. Use pure lead bullets if possible. These guns use a shallow rifling designed for soft lead, not the cast stuff alloyed with tin. While it won't hurt the gun to use commercial cast alloy lead bullets, you'll likely get excessive fouling & poor accuracy with an oversize bore gun.

Honestly until you get the bug, I can't tell you how much fun it is the shoot trapdoors and these other guns from the era! I have both .45-70 and .50-70 guns and they are just so much fun to use.

[bamboomaster]

Second what Bang has said.

Mine also has an oversize bore at around .463 with late enough serial number to be a low arch breechblock.

I don't personally think any of the .45-70 guns are limited to only blackpowder loads but having said that I load conservatively anyway. There are some nice low end loads with Unique powder and also Trail Boss that should work fine, but it will be your choice if you hand load. One bit of added advice. Use pure lead bullets if possible. These guns use a shallow rifling designed for soft lead, not the cast stuff alloyed with tin. While it won't hurt the gun to use commercial cast alloy lead bullets, you'll likely get excessive fouling & poor accuracy with an oversize bore gun.

Honestly until you get the bug, I can't tell you how much fun it is the shoot trapdoors and these other guns from the era! I have both .45-70 and .50-70 guns and they are just so much fun to use.

Although I wouldn't consider shooting this in the OP's carbine (especially with the splintered stock), you can shoot all day long with 11-13 grains of Unique, depending on the bullet weight in a rife/carbine that is properly stocked, has a great barrel, solid action, etc.

Consult your reloading manuals!!!!!

BP loads too of 1.5F Swiss powder. Ummm, when you get beyond 64 grains, it can be a real thumper.

Just sayin....

And when you find yourself shooting 8" high at 100 yds, just remember the RIFLE has a battlefield zero of approx. 270 yards...

[PennStateCarry]

Honestly until you get the bug, I can't tell you how much fun it is the shoot trapdoors and these other guns from the era! I have both .45-70 and .50-70 guns and they are just so much fun to use.

I'm excited to load for it. I enjoy shooting my H&R Buffalo Classic and will probably create some low charge loads that I can enjoy in both of them!

[PennStateCarry]

A decently cut down gun can still be a nice shooter and made to conform to Carbine appearance good enough to look really nice in your rack.

The secret is to do so in a way that won't make it into a fake that will be passed off as an original. The easiest way it to leave tell-tales that any collector will spot even if the gun looks overall correct.

I took a cut down and rebuilt it as a 1st issue carbine some years back.

I sold the Buffington rear sight and used the money to buy the older type sight. I added an original sling bar and ring proper for a carbine, and also replaced the front band with swivel with a carbine type band.

The front sight was not correct, but I left it as a tell-tale sign. I also left the fillet of wood visible where the cleaning rod used to be and the solid butt plate instead of the carbine's with the hinged cleaning rod in its butt.

The gun now looks good enough to pass in the rack for my living history stuff, but will not pass a close look. A knowledgeable person can spot in an instant.

I bought my gun nearly twenty years ago when cut down rifles like it could be had for about $300. I put another hundred dollars or so into the parts, less outright since I was able to sell/trade the front band and rear sight to fund other parts. A cut own rifle stock would be the biggest expense on your gun, but well worth the money if you want to keep it.

These days a real Trapdoor carbine is north of $1500, so yeah it was worth it for a neat piece I can still shoot. (Which I do from time to time)

Mine was just going to be a wall hanger, but seems like it could now be a fun project. I appreciate everyone's insight. I wasn't even going to shoot it, but I already reload 45/70 so what the heck. Might as well play around with it. Maybe I'll take a deer with it in a few years

[Bang]

I was going to mention the 265-270 yard zero, but thought maybe not, since the barrel is cut down. Try to chronograph the loads. I think original fps was around 1250 to make that sight work, using whatever weight bullet prescribed.

[Cville]

If nobody mentioned, I'm pretty sure hanging over a wood stove would be detrimental to the old wood on that rifle.

[MEK1911]

PSC welcome to the Trap Door world By far they are the must enjoyable rifles that I shoot. If you want something fun to do with them shoot black powder loads (the smoke is impressive) and find a range with steel plates the 405 heads rock the shit out of them!
So here is some of my thoughts and experience on Trap Doors.
Trail Boss is the safest and simplest smoke less powder to reload with, I load with 4198 with a over powder card.
Only use lead heads!
405grn is the most common heads to use. I use .459 in all of my trapdoors if you don't feel like fooling around figuring out if .458 or .459 is right for your rifle try .458 hollow base they will fill into the rifling like Minnie balls.
Black Hills and Ultramax sell cowboy action 45/70 loads with 405grn .458 heads that are safe to use in Trapp Doors.
Goex sells black powder 45/70 loads with .458heads.
My understanding why Trap Doors shoot so high is the front blades are filed down to except bayonets. The rear sights have 100yd markings. I replaced the blades in my shooters and filed down the blade to get my 100yd zero they all shot+11" for me with GI blade.


For the OPs rifle as stated before the stock is a cut down rifle and your front sight dovetail is not GI. One option for you is measure your dove tail and order a muzzle loader font blade from Track of the Wolf (start with a tall one) or take it to some gun shops and check there box of old front sights. Dixions in Kempton could certainly be of help to you.

PSC I think I was meant to see your post
A few years ago I bought a Trap Door rifle with the front three/four inches of the stock's fore arm cracked.I used the metal on a different project.The stock has been sitting around waiting for a project like yours. If you have any interest in it PM me and I'll send you pics,it will be priced very fair. It could be cut down to match your current stock. It has NO metal hardware on it but is fully functional and safe to shot.

[eddyb74]

My father has one that was given to him by a neighbor when he was a young boy. He was cleaning out the neighbors basement with a friend and found the carbine leaning in a corner. He asked the man what he wanted to do with it and was told to take it home with him. The hammer is broken, but he had both pieces. He tried braising it back together(back in the 60's, I would guess) which did not work. He ordered a new hammer from Dixie Gun Works in the 90's and it came with a spur on the side against the action. He had to remove this to fit it on.

The carbine is a model of 1873 but the production date is much later, I just don't remember it. While doing some SN research I found numbers below and above that were issued to the 7th Cav., years after that Battle of Little Big Horn though.

I'll get some pics next time I'm over there. Glad I saw this thread, kind of got me re interested in it again.