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Thread: Cold bluing

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Those are great results!

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Cold blue isn't bluing, it's a fast oxidizing copper wash. It's not very durable and offers little protection.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Quote Originally Posted by Urban_Redneck View Post
    Cold blue isn't bluing, it's a fast oxidizing copper wash. It's not very durable and offers little protection.
    Yup, only good for touchups. It stinks and isn't durable in the least bit. Rust blueing is the way to go for the home tinkerer. Easy to do but people think there's Voodoo involved.

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Quote Originally Posted by Urban_Redneck View Post
    Cold blue isn't bluing, it's a fast oxidizing copper wash. It's not very durable and offers little protection.
    It's a wall hanger for decoration so it really doesn't matter. The object of this build is cheap.

    The order from Brownells should be here tomorrow then I'll have to turn this into a build thread.
    Stock is all sanded and I massaged all the parts to fit and not have sharp edges.
    Went to the hardware store last night for stain. When I got there I was undecided on a color, then this jumped out at me.

    That made the decision process easier.

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Not done yet but getting there, a lot more work than I imagined for a kit.
    Here's a pic of fitting all the parts to ensure they fit because they didn't.


    Pencil mark shows how much more I had to take out for the trigger guard to fit.


    I took it outside to show how far off the stock was from being consistent all the way down.


    Still sanding...


    Wood stained but no poly yet.

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Let's get back to the point of all this...bluing.

    The oxpho-blue didn't do a bad job on a "white" barrel but I rubbed forever to achieve bluish results. Of course real bluing would yield much better results.
    However, when you use it on a gun that is already blued the results are fantastic!
    I have an ol Ted Williams shotgun that I've been abusing ever since I started hunting. I broke it down and used the oxpho on it.
    WOW! That's where this stuff is great!

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    Quote Originally Posted by P89 View Post
    Let's get back to the point of all this...bluing.

    The oxpho-blue didn't do a bad job on a "white" barrel but I rubbed forever to achieve bluish results. Of course real bluing would yield much better results.
    However, when you use it on a gun that is already blued the results are fantastic!
    I have an ol Ted Williams shotgun that I've been abusing ever since I started hunting. I broke it down and used the oxpho on it.
    WOW! That's where this stuff is great!
    Did you make sure to fully degrease the parts and it helps big time to warm them up with a heat gun or blow dryer before bluing.

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    I didn't use denatured alcohol because I didn't have any handy, I used Dupont reducer for automotive applications. Don't know if that was the cause.
    Everything was room temp and it hung in front of the heater in the garage for a while.
    I bought a big bottle of it so I can keep doing the process until I'm...um...blue in the face.

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    I’ve just washed everything with automotive or parts degreaser as well. It’s going to take multiple coats and after each I would coat in a basic oil like a three in one over night to cure, degrease and start again until
    It’s where you want it.

    If this is something you find yourself doing again look into a black oxide kit from Casewell.

    http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-...xide-kits.html
    Last edited by Hodgie; January 21st, 2018 at 09:57 PM.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Cold bluing

    For a muzzleloader you should consider browning it. Looks great on a period piece.

    I went thru bottles of oxopho blue for touch ups but I personally don't like how a full reblue looks. Browning is harder than a cold blue but doable for something like a muzzleloader barrel. You heat it up with a propane torch till it is very hot and start putting the solution. It will sizzle and start turning brown. It takes a few coats but when you are done you get a traditional finish you cant find many places

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