Need help from the experts

[Brick]

Photos attached show damage to my Model 10 from today's range trip. This occurred on the last shot of that particular cylinder full. Note that the cartridge case bears the same "burn through" as the cylinder wall! When this occurred I heard a louder report than normal. Over-charge unless it was a full double charge seems unlikely. The cartridges in use were my own handloads of 125 gr plated lead bullet ahead of 7.2 grs. of A#5 powder. This is a maximum load for .38 Special, but a small over-charge would be in +P range and still "safe" in this gun.

Has anyone seen a failure like this?
Is it possible that the cylinder had worn through causing the cartridge case to fail or vice versa?

Repair options?

[bamboomaster]

Sorry to hear about this unfortunate incident and really glad you're OK.

I don't know if a Model 10 can be fixed - unless a smith has another damaged identical model to cannibalize.

While I seem to have trouble finding the pictures, an older shooting buddy showed me his once "mint condition" 10-5 where the barrel split. His first round was a squib low-pressure load and failed to exit the barrel. His next three low pressure rounds stacked up behind it - still no damage. The 5th round was the Hammer of Thor which split the barrel. We looked for replacement barrels everywhere, but couldn't find any at the time. And apparently there is an additional problem in attempting to remove the barrel on the 10-5's.

He was shooting at a raccoon trapped in a cage at the time and should have figured it out when the first round from 6" away didn't splatter the critter....

[jakebrake]

wasn't plus +p


maybe +p++ ....that looks like charge and 5/8.


not to sound like a dick, but, consider yourself damn lucky, and stop trying to reformulate 38special +p.

[gghbi]

Interesting failure! Repair is cylinder replacement. Have you submitted these photos to S&W? Apparently you are OK, and no serious injury?

Not sure if there was a defect in the case or wear of the cylinder. Would love to see the inside of the other chambers, and a good look at the indexing notches. My best guess is the notch was cut (or wore) a bit too deep and fatigue finally allowed the blowout. The case almost looks like it was machined, with such a clean cut.

Alternate is the case had a defect, but it only blew out because the case defect and the notch lined up, which would be a real long shot.

Let us know what you find.

[cdi]

The bolt stop notch is the thinnest part of the cylinder.
The fix is a replacement cylinder as mentioned above.
Cylinders do not "wear through".

I doubt Smith & Wesson will treat it as warrantee work as you were using your home-rolled ammunition.
The most likely cause of the failure is overpressure ammunition.
And as also noted above, you're lucky the whole cylinder didn't let go injuring you or someone next to you.

[Brick]

Well thanks for the answers so far. I used Smith's contact page to send them a message and the more detailed shot of the damage. I'm certain they won't fix it for free, but I want to know if repair services are available and if not are spare parts available (should be they're offering a "Classic line Model 10 HB" for sale). I'd prefer sending it to them for repair so they could install the new cylinder and set end shake etc. I might even get a "real" trigger job done!

[MARINE DIVISION TWO]

# 1 ,You are a very lucky guy,play lotto tonight ! #2 I needed a timing job done on my1948 S&W model 10 they said they would not do it because of the age of my gun Yours appears newer than mine guestimate around 1960s ? I would be on a positive note tat S&W would be able to accomodate you ! Good Luck !

[Noah_Zark]

Well thanks for the answers so far. I used Smith's contact page to send them a message and the more detailed shot of the damage. I'm certain they won't fix it for free, but I want to know if repair services are available and if not are spare parts available (should be they're offering a "Classic line Model 10 HB" for sale). I'd prefer sending it to them for repair so they could install the new cylinder and set end shake etc. I might even get a "real" trigger job done!

Forget S&W; they won't have parts for that vintage, and won't want to touch your Model 10. IMO, your best bet would be to try used parts vendors at gun shows, or Numrich or Jack First Gun Parts (google) for a replacement cylinder and fit it yourself. You might need to get some cylinder washers from Brownells to remove any endshake with the replacment cylinder.

Remember: The ejector rod unscrews backwards -- it's left hand threaded!

IIWM, I'd throttle back the handload, too.

Noah

[pennlineman]

You can find used cylinders for model 10's pretty easy.

This was the first listing on eBay when I did a quick search. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smith-Wesson...UAAOSwmoBZa6Si

Your incident looks much more like a parts failure than an ammo failure IMO. The S&W revolvers I've seen that let go come apart much differently and much more dramatically than yours did.

The biggest problem will be getting the new cylinder fitted along with the ratchet and hand for good timing. There is also a good chance the finish on the replacement won't match if that is a concern.

[Pizza Bob]

Is this a 10-7 or 10-8? About 1977 vintage. If you are not the original owner, I'm wondering if the cylinder notches or lead-ins were re-cut. A common practice on revolvers that have seen heavy use and tend to over-run the cylinder stop notch. Although, I'll go the Occam's Razor route and say it was probably an over charge.

Pennlineman is correct in that used cylinders for a model 10 are relatively available through venues like eBay.

Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob