holdover for duplex reticle scopes

[WWGunslinger]

Got the Veracity today. Seems pretty nice. The base and rings should be here tomorrow.

I was looking at the Burris site and they have a tool that shows you what range your hash marks are for bullet drop. It also has a dope card tool to make a printable dope card. It has 2 columns that I am confused about. 1 is Drift (clicks) and the other is Zero Adj (Clicks). What are these?

Also, why does it say at 100 yards there's almost 2 inches of drop? At 200 yards its not going to be almost 8" of drop. If it's zeroed at 100 yards there should be no drop. Am I misunderstanding something here?


Here's a screenshot of it:

dope card.jpg

[CMP703006]

I'll break down each one of your questions,

Drift clicks: the number of click adjustments required to adjust for the given wind velocity at a particular range. Most likely right is positive and left is negative.

Zero Clicks: that is the number of clicks you would have to go up to have your scope zero adjusted for a particular range.

For the Drop that is accounting for the true physical drop of the bullet, the bullet begins falling as soon as it leaves the muzzle. You adjust your scope so that through the scope there is zero drop at 100 yards however the bullet has fallen 1.79" below the barrel. The path is the drop you see through the scope, zero at 100, 2.71" at 200 and so forth.

I'll admit that is the first ballistics calculator I've seen to do that.

[WWGunslinger]

Got the scope Wednesday and got it mounted on Thursday. Got it zeroed in on Friday. Took it out for groundhogs on Saturday.
I don't think the glass is as good as the Bushnell. The Bushnell seemed to be clearer to me.

Anyway, Got to shoot at one hog but missed with 5 shots. He was 250 yards away. First I tried to use the hashmarks. According to calculator for my ammo and scope setup, the 1st hash below crosshair is 201 yards, 2nd one s 292 yards. I was trying to aim a a bit between the 1st and 2nd hash. I couldn't see where my rounds were hitting, whether they were high, low, left, or right.

Then I pulled out the dope card and it said 9 clicks for 250 yards so I dialed 9 clicks and shot but still couldn't see where it was hitting.

One thing that might be throwing it off is that when I got everything zeroed, I didn't use loctite or anything on the screws. so after I was at the range, I removed the screws from the front of the rings and put loctite on them, screwed them down, and then did the rear ring screws, so i guess it's possible doing that could have altered my zero?

[bamboomaster]

Yeah, that could have altered your zero . You know the drill - start from a shorter distance - no more than 25 yds. If you're on paper and center-line, then move to 50. If you're on point of aim, then move to 100 to get things dialed in.

How precise is your range estimation? If you're using a range-finder, did you previously test it at shorter KNOWN distance to verify the accuracy of the reading? If the groundhog isn't flinching or jumping with your misses, you're not even close.

I know you probably don't like using a spotter, but they can be real helpful in calling your hits or helping you to dial in on your misses. And would take some of the aggravation/frustration out of the equation...

You should be knocking those furry bowling pins over with a Tikka...

Oh, are you using a Tikka with an 8", 12", other twist? Might make a difference with your bullet selection.

Might also be a good idea to take a bowling pin to the range and see if you can hit it at 100 yds. - then some other unknown distance that you lase...

[WWGunslinger]

Yeah, that could have altered your zero . You know the drill - start from a shorter distance - no more than 25 yds. If you're on paper and center-line, then move to 50. If you're on point of aim, then move to 100 to get things dialed in.

How precise is your range estimation? If you're using a range-finder, did you previously test it at shorter KNOWN distance to verify the accuracy of the reading? If the groundhog isn't flinching or jumping with your misses, you're not even close.

I know you probably don't like using a spotter, but they can be real helpful in calling your hits or helping you to dial in on your misses. And would take some of the aggravation/frustration out of the equation...

You should be knocking those furry bowling pins over with a Tikka...

Oh, are you using a Tikka with an 8", 12", other twist? Might make a difference with your bullet selection.

Might also be a good idea to take a bowling pin to the range and see if you can hit it at 100 yds. - then some other unknown distance that you lase...

I was with my dad but he couldn't see where the shots were hitting either for the most part. He did see one and said I was high. It had poured down some rain earlier in the day so maybe the ground was too wet to really kick up dirt/dust?
My dad used his range finder. His is much better than mine. I need a new one (the glass is very dim and i forget how far it's supposed to range, like 450 yadrs maybe but I rarely get it to range over 300 (only ranges higher on certain things).
Anyway, I think the Tikka is 1/8" twist but I'd have to double check. I am using 55 gr hornady vmax ammo.
I am also using a Primos Gen2 Trigger Stick tripod.

My range only goes to 100 yards, not sure of any nearby that has longer distance. I want to ask the farmer where we hunt if he'll let me practice long distance in his fields because that's pretty much the only place I know where I can shoot long distance.

[WWGunslinger]

went to the range to check my zero and it was like 2 inches high at 100 yards, so removing the screws and applying thread locker definitely adjusted the zero!

[bamboomaster]

went to the range to check my zero and it was like 2 inches high at 100 yards, so removing the screws and applying thread locker definitely adjusted the zero!

Kudos to you for figuring it out....