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Thread: Accuracy issues

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    do you have iron sights on it?
    How about bore sighting it (pull out the bolt and look down range at your target through the barrell) when its winging them around?
    Years ago I did have a savage 110G in 7MM mag that would do the same thing. 1st round right in the red, 2nd would walk 3rd might not even be on the paper. Tiny pencil profile barrel. I traded it for an SKS
    Derrion Albert was my Hero.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    Four possibilities come to mind:

    1) Loose action screws. Google for the spec and tighten to that spec to keep the action from flopping around in the stock.

    2) Scope mount loose. You checked the ring screws, but no mention of the screws holding the rings to the base and/or receiver.

    3) Barrel loose and/or not floated (eg, barrel is pressed against a swivel stud).

    4) Very bad crown. When the barrel heats, the crown tightens and throws the exiting bullet around.

    You can check 1 & 2, likely need a smith for 3 & 4. Smith could also see other stuff that might warrant repair by Savage whether under warrantee or not.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Bang View Post
    I know this would be the last thing I would want to get into were it mine, but I think you have proven the rifle is not right. I'd call Savage customer service and make arrangements to send it to them for a correction.

    To check for loose scope, set it up on sand bags aimed at a target, and carefully squeeze the trigger and DRY FIRE it. If there is something loose in the scope you will see the reticle jump. If no jumping around occurs during several dry-fires, the scope is probably OK.

    What do the fired cases look like? Do they remain essentially SAAMI dimensions? What do the bullet holes in the target look like? Are they equal all around? If the bullets are yawing, the trace on the impact will show one heavier thicker wider black portion than the opposite side of the hole.

    One shot should not heat up anything sufficient to affect a second shot. Something else is going on. If the first shot is always a perfect zero or nearly so and the following shots always open up, and it happens to five people known to be good shots, you need Savage to replace that thing. It's occupied by a demon.
    I did check those various items you mentioned. I also emailed Savage to see if they'll do anything for me. I really wish I had realized there was a problem in the first year.

    Quote Originally Posted by gghbi View Post
    Is the action tight in the stock? Is there any pattern at all to the 'groups' ?
    Do you know anybody with a similar rifle (Savage short action) that you could swap stocks with? Might be interesting.
    If you separate the action from the stock are there any marks on either one that look odd?
    Let us know, thanks.
    Everything is tight. Nope, no pattern to the groups. I'll have to separate and take a closer look at the action and stock

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunsnwater View Post
    Is the barrel tight?
    Yes. barrel is tight

    Quote Originally Posted by dkf View Post
    Have you had anyone else shoot it? Are the bullets going into the target leaving a nice clean round hole or are the holes more oval or bullet shaped? I have a Rem700 in 30-06 with a thin lightweight barrel. At 100yds I have gotten it hotter than probably should several times and it doesn't shift much.(Like 10 shots in a few minutes) If you ruled the out the glass and mounts I'd say it is barrel related. Whether the barrel bore is just shit or it is a really bad loose to the receiver or issues with the lug. If the stock is rubbing the barrel during the shot a little it still shouldn't throw shots off 12"+ at 100.

    I looked on the Savage website and I hope I read it wrong, they are saying the warranty is 1 year. If that is true that is a pretty shitty warranty on a firearm.
    Yup, only a one year warranty, ugh. Bullets are leaving a nice round hole

    Quote Originally Posted by bigandy1966 View Post
    do you have iron sights on it?
    How about bore sighting it (pull out the bolt and look down range at your target through the barrell) when its winging them around?
    Years ago I did have a savage 110G in 7MM mag that would do the same thing. 1st round right in the red, 2nd would walk 3rd might not even be on the paper. Tiny pencil profile barrel. I traded it for an SKS
    No iron sights and it was bore sighted
    Jesus is Lord !

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    OP you mention that you checked the scope rings, but did you also check the scope base to ensure that you torqued them correctly?

    Some other things you may consider is checking the head spacing. You will need GO gauge...you don't need a NO GO gauge as you can add a piece of tape to GO gauge.

    It could also be a crowning issue as well.

    Savage CS sucks, so I wouldn't expect much support from them. Great news is that you do have a Savage and can do the work yourself.

    I have the GO/NO GO gauge for 308...I also have the barrel nut wrench and action vice as well.

    OP, you didn't mention the bullet weights you are shooting. Your model 11, should be a 1:10 twist, but I'd like to know what bullet weights you are shooting through your rifle.

    Not to sound like I'm all that, but I can tell you that I've probably done more with Savage rifles than anyone else on this forum, so if you want me to take a look...I'd be more than happy to help you.

    When it comes to rifles not shooting...I always look at this order

    1) scope base/scope rings to see if they are torqued properly. Also take a look at the action screws as well.

    2) Scope...to make sure you are using a quality optic.

    3) Headspacing/crown

    4) ammo

    5) shooters ability

    ETA: Have you taken a look down the barrel...is their fouling? Do you see any damage to the rifling or rust? How often do you clean your rifle as you mention you only take the rifle out once a year. You might have rust or fouling down that barrel.
    Last edited by aubie515; April 14th, 2017 at 07:11 PM.

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Twoboxer View Post
    Four possibilities come to mind:

    1) Loose action screws. Google for the spec and tighten to that spec to keep the action from flopping around in the stock.

    2) Scope mount loose. You checked the ring screws, but no mention of the screws holding the rings to the base and/or receiver.

    3) Barrel loose and/or not floated (eg, barrel is pressed against a swivel stud).

    4) Very bad crown. When the barrel heats, the crown tightens and throws the exiting bullet around.

    You can check 1 & 2, likely need a smith for 3 & 4. Smith could also see other stuff that might warrant repair by Savage whether under warrantee or not.
    All screws checked, action, scope mount and base, etc. For #3 and 4 I will need some one more skilled than I to check

    Quote Originally Posted by aubie515 View Post
    OP you mention that you checked the scope rings, but did you also check the scope base to ensure that you torqued them correctly?

    Some other things you may consider is checking the head spacing. You will need GO gauge...you don't need a NO GO gauge as you can add a piece of tape to GO gauge.

    It could also be a crowning issue as well.

    Savage CS sucks, so I wouldn't expect much support from them. Great news is that you do have a Savage and can do the work yourself.

    I have the GO/NO GO gauge for 308...I also have the barrel nut wrench and action vice as well.

    OP, you didn't mention the bullet weights you are shooting. Your model 11, should be a 1:10 twist, but I'd like to know what bullet weights you are shooting through your rifle.

    Not to sound like I'm all that, but I can tell you that I've probably done more with Savage rifles than anyone else on this forum, so if you want me to take a look...I'd be more than happy to help you.

    When it comes to rifles not shooting...I always look at this order

    1) scope base/scope rings to see if they are torqued properly. Also take a look at the action screws as well.

    2) Scope...to make sure you are using a quality optic.

    3) Headspacing/crown

    4) ammo



    5) shooters ability

    ETA: Have you taken a look down the barrel...is their fouling? Do you see any damage to the rifling or rust? How often do you clean your rifle as you mention you only take the rifle out once a year. You might have rust or fouling down that barrel.
    All screws were checked scopes used on it were a Simmons (came with it from the factory), a Nikon, & it now has a Leupold. As far as headspacing I am not familiar with nor have the tools to check it.
    Ammo, always factory ammo, Federal, Winchester, Remington, etc. & I don't reload.
    As far as shooter ability, I'm no expert but I can hold my own, this plus having friends better than me having the same issues.
    As far as I can tell the barrel looks good, I clean it after use, and note this was a problem from the start. I don't have a bore scope so I can't actually look in there to check the rifling
    Jesus is Lord !

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    What weight bullets you using? Sounds like you are using hunting ammo, so I'll guess 150gr/180gr bullets is the most common in 308.

    I replied to your PM.

    ETA: OP, can you measure your screw spacing on the stock...I'm guessing you have the 4.27 spacing if you bought your model 11 in 2009.
    Last edited by aubie515; April 14th, 2017 at 07:45 PM.

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    [QUOTE=aubie515;3539833]What weight bullets you using? Sounds like you are using hunting ammo, so I'll guess 150gr/180gr bullets is the most common in 308.

    I replied to your PM.

    ETA: OP, can you measure your screw spacing on the stock...I'm guessing you have the 4.27 spacing if you bought your model 11 in 2009.[/QUOTE

    Correct on bullet weights
    Jesus is Lord !

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    Checking the barrel for free float require nothing more than a crisp dollar bill. Place the rifle in a horizontal position with stock supported. See if the dollar bill can be slid unimpeded from front to near the receiver or whatever fastener stops it. If the bill sticks between barrel and stock barrel channel, take a look at the area with thinner paper (receipt tape is about .002"). If that binds, the barrel is touching the stock channel and the channel needs to be sanded out to relieve it.

    Here's a trick you could try. I had a Savage .22LR supposed to be a tack driver oob. Not so mine. In all my researching and trying stuff, I tried shooting it with my left hand on top of the barrel ahead of the receiver. It liked it. A lot. So I bedded the barrel in that area and it settled in. Free-floating isn't always the answer to barrel harmonics.

    I believe you rifle has the accu-stock and accu-trigger? What inch-pounds are you applying to the fastener bolts?
    Last edited by Bang; April 14th, 2017 at 08:20 PM.

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Bang View Post
    Checking the barrel for free float require nothing more than a crisp dollar bill. Place the rifle in a horizontal position with stock supported. See if the dollar bill can be slid unimpeded from front to near the receiver or whatever fastener stops it. If the bill sticks between barrel and stock barrel channel, take a look at the area with thinner paper (receipt tape is about .002"). If that binds, the barrel is touching the stock channel and the channel needs to be sanded out to relieve it.

    Here's a trick you could try. I had a Savage .22LR supposed to be a tack driver oob. Not so mine. In all my researching and trying stuff, I tried shooting it with my left hand on top of the barrel ahead of the receiver. It liked it. A lot. So I bedded the barrel in that area and it settled in. Free-floating isn't always the answer to barrel harmonics.

    I believe you rifle has the accu-stock and accu-trigger? What inch-pounds are you applying to the fastener bolts?
    Oh okay, I did the dollar thing and that checked out okay. A friend from the gun club did the tightening so I don't know what torque values he used
    Jesus is Lord !

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Accuracy issues

    There seems a general belief that if the action is secured to a pillar system integral with the stock, (Accu-Stock in Savage's case) hand tightening to bring the metal-to-metal into contact in a firm manner is all that's required. For example, if 35 inch-pounds is quite snug, it is claimed anything higher is just putting additional strain on the threads but doing nothing to enhance performance. Others say they can tune by varying torque applied to front and rear fasteners. Of course, anything light enough to allow the metal contacts to skate or slip around is not tight enough. There is also a school that claims the front screw should be torqued first and the back one second. Voodoo enters the picture at some point.

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