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Thread: Accuracy issues
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April 14th, 2017, 04:08 PM #11
Re: Accuracy issues
do you have iron sights on it?
How about bore sighting it (pull out the bolt and look down range at your target through the barrell) when its winging them around?
Years ago I did have a savage 110G in 7MM mag that would do the same thing. 1st round right in the red, 2nd would walk 3rd might not even be on the paper. Tiny pencil profile barrel. I traded it for an SKSDerrion Albert was my Hero.
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April 14th, 2017, 06:23 PM #12
Re: Accuracy issues
Four possibilities come to mind:
1) Loose action screws. Google for the spec and tighten to that spec to keep the action from flopping around in the stock.
2) Scope mount loose. You checked the ring screws, but no mention of the screws holding the rings to the base and/or receiver.
3) Barrel loose and/or not floated (eg, barrel is pressed against a swivel stud).
4) Very bad crown. When the barrel heats, the crown tightens and throws the exiting bullet around.
You can check 1 & 2, likely need a smith for 3 & 4. Smith could also see other stuff that might warrant repair by Savage whether under warrantee or not.
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April 14th, 2017, 06:23 PM #13
Re: Accuracy issues
I did check those various items you mentioned. I also emailed Savage to see if they'll do anything for me. I really wish I had realized there was a problem in the first year.
Everything is tight. Nope, no pattern to the groups. I'll have to separate and take a closer look at the action and stock
Yes. barrel is tight
Yup, only a one year warranty, ugh. Bullets are leaving a nice round hole
No iron sights and it was bore sightedJesus is Lord !
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April 14th, 2017, 07:08 PM #14
Re: Accuracy issues
OP you mention that you checked the scope rings, but did you also check the scope base to ensure that you torqued them correctly?
Some other things you may consider is checking the head spacing. You will need GO gauge...you don't need a NO GO gauge as you can add a piece of tape to GO gauge.
It could also be a crowning issue as well.
Savage CS sucks, so I wouldn't expect much support from them. Great news is that you do have a Savage and can do the work yourself.
I have the GO/NO GO gauge for 308...I also have the barrel nut wrench and action vice as well.
OP, you didn't mention the bullet weights you are shooting. Your model 11, should be a 1:10 twist, but I'd like to know what bullet weights you are shooting through your rifle.
Not to sound like I'm all that, but I can tell you that I've probably done more with Savage rifles than anyone else on this forum, so if you want me to take a look...I'd be more than happy to help you.
When it comes to rifles not shooting...I always look at this order
1) scope base/scope rings to see if they are torqued properly. Also take a look at the action screws as well.
2) Scope...to make sure you are using a quality optic.
3) Headspacing/crown
4) ammo
5) shooters ability
ETA: Have you taken a look down the barrel...is their fouling? Do you see any damage to the rifling or rust? How often do you clean your rifle as you mention you only take the rifle out once a year. You might have rust or fouling down that barrel.Last edited by aubie515; April 14th, 2017 at 07:11 PM.
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April 14th, 2017, 07:29 PM #15
Re: Accuracy issues
All screws checked, action, scope mount and base, etc. For #3 and 4 I will need some one more skilled than I to check
All screws were checked scopes used on it were a Simmons (came with it from the factory), a Nikon, & it now has a Leupold. As far as headspacing I am not familiar with nor have the tools to check it.
Ammo, always factory ammo, Federal, Winchester, Remington, etc. & I don't reload.
As far as shooter ability, I'm no expert but I can hold my own, this plus having friends better than me having the same issues.
As far as I can tell the barrel looks good, I clean it after use, and note this was a problem from the start. I don't have a bore scope so I can't actually look in there to check the riflingJesus is Lord !
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April 14th, 2017, 07:42 PM #16
Re: Accuracy issues
What weight bullets you using? Sounds like you are using hunting ammo, so I'll guess 150gr/180gr bullets is the most common in 308.
I replied to your PM.
ETA: OP, can you measure your screw spacing on the stock...I'm guessing you have the 4.27 spacing if you bought your model 11 in 2009.Last edited by aubie515; April 14th, 2017 at 07:45 PM.
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April 14th, 2017, 08:15 PM #17
Re: Accuracy issues
[QUOTE=aubie515;3539833]What weight bullets you using? Sounds like you are using hunting ammo, so I'll guess 150gr/180gr bullets is the most common in 308.
I replied to your PM.
ETA: OP, can you measure your screw spacing on the stock...I'm guessing you have the 4.27 spacing if you bought your model 11 in 2009.[/QUOTE
Correct on bullet weightsJesus is Lord !
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April 14th, 2017, 08:16 PM #18
Re: Accuracy issues
Checking the barrel for free float require nothing more than a crisp dollar bill. Place the rifle in a horizontal position with stock supported. See if the dollar bill can be slid unimpeded from front to near the receiver or whatever fastener stops it. If the bill sticks between barrel and stock barrel channel, take a look at the area with thinner paper (receipt tape is about .002"). If that binds, the barrel is touching the stock channel and the channel needs to be sanded out to relieve it.
Here's a trick you could try. I had a Savage .22LR supposed to be a tack driver oob. Not so mine. In all my researching and trying stuff, I tried shooting it with my left hand on top of the barrel ahead of the receiver. It liked it. A lot. So I bedded the barrel in that area and it settled in. Free-floating isn't always the answer to barrel harmonics.
I believe you rifle has the accu-stock and accu-trigger? What inch-pounds are you applying to the fastener bolts?Last edited by Bang; April 14th, 2017 at 08:20 PM.
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April 14th, 2017, 08:39 PM #19
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April 14th, 2017, 11:28 PM #20
Re: Accuracy issues
There seems a general belief that if the action is secured to a pillar system integral with the stock, (Accu-Stock in Savage's case) hand tightening to bring the metal-to-metal into contact in a firm manner is all that's required. For example, if 35 inch-pounds is quite snug, it is claimed anything higher is just putting additional strain on the threads but doing nothing to enhance performance. Others say they can tune by varying torque applied to front and rear fasteners. Of course, anything light enough to allow the metal contacts to skate or slip around is not tight enough. There is also a school that claims the front screw should be torqued first and the back one second. Voodoo enters the picture at some point.
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