SBR question

[WWGunslinger]

I've been thinking about an SBR 9mm AR style rifle.
I've been leaning towards buying a complete lower and complete upper from palmetto state armory as they have been having sales on them lately so I could get something fairly inexpensive.

The lowers have all been rifle lowers, not pistol lowers. Does it matter which one I get?

For the upper I was thinking about maybe a 10.5" upper.

I believe that I can't have both without having the tax stamp, is that correct?

What do I need to do with the lower to make an SBR?

I already own an AR in 5.56 too (non-sbr), so not sure how that complicates things?

[AHelm3]

Wouldn't be wise to order both at the same time without having the lower engraved and stamped.

My suggestion, in order to take advantage of the sales, would be this:
Order the complete rifle lower, and have it sent to your FFL, and begin the SBR process.
Have a friend or family member order the upper for you, and have it sent and stored at their place until the paperwork for the lower is final.

[GunLawyer001]

Wouldn't be wise to order both at the same time without having the lower engraved and stamped.

My suggestion, in order to take advantage of the sales, would be this:
Order the complete rifle lower, and have it sent to your FFL, and begin the SBR process.
Have a friend or family member order the upper for you, and have it sent and stored at their place until the paperwork for the lower is final.

Not bad, but another option is to spend $50 on a stripped virgin lower, and park the short upper on that until the paperwork comes through for an SBR.

The Thompson Center case told ATF that they can't prosecute someone for constructive possession, if the parts in hand all have alternative lawful uses. You can have the parts to a pistol and the parts to a rifle at the same time, as long as there's a provable lawful use for everything; a pistol upper on a virgin lower that has no buttstock is a lawful use, even without all the parts to complete the lower. And the other lower, complete with the buttstock, can just sit there without any upper until you're stamped.

If you're ambitious, buy a 16" upper while you're at it. Park that upper on the rifle lower. When the stamp comes in, swap the pistol upper to the Title II SBR lower, and move the rifle upper to the stripped lower, add a stock and make a Title I rifle out of the thing.

You can never have too many AR's.

[GUNGUY45]

Buy a virgin lower, then buy your short upper, Get a Pistol buffer tube, & build a pistol, that way you can "work the kinks out" while waiting for your paperwork.
Get it engraved while you wait.
When your forms come back, pick up a rifle buffer tube, & you're good to go.

[WWGunslinger]

Buy a virgin lower, then buy your short upper, Get a Pistol buffer tube, & build a pistol, that way you can "work the kinks out" while waiting for your paperwork.
Get it engraved while you wait.
When your forms come back, pick up a rifle buffer tube, & you're good to go.

what do you mean by virgin lower? stripped lower?
I built a 5.56 stripped lower from a parts kit. are there 9mm lower parts kits or do i need to buy the parts separate? I've not seen a 9mm ar lower parts kits though, so not sure what exact parts I'd need for a 9mm lower.

Does the lower have to be designated as pistol or something?

So I can buy either a virgin lower or pistol lower and a short barrel upper and that is legal?

I also have a 5.56 complete AR, does that affect anything?

[Emptymag]

A 9mm doesn't use many different parts from a 5.56

9mm specific parts needed:

9mm Barrel
9mm Bolt (BCG)
9mm Buffer
9mm lower OR standard lower with 9mm mag adapter/mag block

All other parts are the standard AR parts.



Here's a thread I started when I had questions regarding a 9mm build.
My build was a carbine, but most everything should be applicable to a pistol.
Gonna build a 9mm pistol one of these days as well.

[WWGunslinger]

A 9mm doesn't use many different parts from a 5.56

9mm specific parts needed:

9mm Barrel
9mm Bolt (BCG)
9mm Buffer
9mm lower OR standard lower with 9mm mag adapter/mag block

All other parts are the standard AR parts.



Here's a thread I started when I had questions regarding a 9mm build.
My build was a carbine, but most everything should be applicable to a pistol.
Gonna build a 9mm pistol one of these days as well.

i read i might need a 9mm hammer?

[Emptymag]

i read i might need a 9mm hammer?

That's old school info.
There's almost no chance that a hammer supplied with any kit on the market won't work.

I forget the specific issue, but it has to do with the shape of the hammer AND (this may actually be the bigger thing) the shape of the bolt.
Older 9mm bolts often needed to be cut to create a "ramp" to work without breaking the hammer. I think that's right.
Anyway, 99.9% of 9mm bolts now sold are already ramped, so it's a non-issue.

[WWGunslinger]

That's old school info.
There's almost no chance that a hammer supplied with any kit on the market won't work.

I forget the specific issue, but it has to do with the shape of the hammer AND (this may actually be the bigger thing) the shape of the bolt.
Older 9mm bolts often needed to be cut to create a "ramp" to work without breaking the hammer. I think that's right.
Anyway, 99.9% of 9mm bolts now sold are already ramped, so it's a non-issue.

so pretty much any 5.56 lower parts kit will work for a 9mm ar?

[Emptymag]

so pretty much any 5.56 lower parts kit will work for a 9mm ar?

Yep.

Here's the pic thread for my 9mm carbine.
Parts list in in OP. I never updated it with prices, but the complete list is there.


The only real difference in your build would be the buffer tube - you'd use a pistol buffer tube.
The diameter is purposely different and stocks will not fit on one.

That said, I highly recommend using a Shockwave Blade. (if you plan on choosing between that or a Sig brace)
You can get the entire kit that includes a KAK buffer tube which is specifically designed for use with the Shockwave Blade because it has a row of "dimples" on the underside which allow you to position the Blade where you want it, then snug a set screw into a dimple, preventing it from moving.