Reloading 30-06

[Gunowner99]

Okay, in my continuing 30-06 saga, I want to make a list of what I will need to reload. I currently reload a few calibers so I have the basics. My guess is:

Dies (I have a Lee Classic Turret press) like the 4 dies set
go-no go Lyman type 30-06 Case Length/Headspace Gauge
Trim method? I would use something like Lee Precision 30/06 Springfield Gauge/Holder ?
Extra turret

I'm drawing a blank, I use the drum powder measure so will I need another riser or powder through die or that would be with the 4 die set, right?

Large rifle primers/powder/bullets


I'm forgetting.......?

Just want to keep an eye out for stuff on sale, not reloading yet.

[Delkal]

I don't see the need for a case length/headspace gauge. Waste of money. Just reload the case right the first time.

I do like the Lee trimming system. You do have to buy a new length gauge and holder for each cartridge but chucked in a drill press it is the fastest way you can trim. A few seconds a case and it is very reproducible. You need a decamfering tool too (I like the RCBS)

I used the lee powder measures but never really liked them. They work OK for moderate pistol loads but they are even worse with the stick powders that 30-06's like. For rifles you need a dedicated Lyman or RCBS powder measure.

And of course a good scale. I like the RCBS 505 but many people like the digital ones.

[SgtRecon]

What Delkal said
case gauges and bullet comparators are simply gadgets to separate you from more of your money, except if your uber anal. A quality set of digital vernier calipers is much better, +1 for the lee trimming system chucked in a cordless drill with a quick rub of a chamfer tool, I think the lee sucks, cant get it to work for me, the RCBS/Hornady inside/outside style works great

I load all my '06 for the Garand on turret press and weigh my charges with a Lyman gen 6 digital scale dispenser, I use the Lee pro disc and the micro adjust charge bar for pistol and 223 with good results on the pro 1000 progressive

For reference I load 47 grains of IMR 4895 over 150 gr FMJ or lead point, not terribly hot but shoots great and litters the brass in a neat pile at 2-3:00 o'clock about 8 feet in front of the bench. does well in the Winchester M70 super Grade also

[Twoboxer]

I'd second (or third) the posts above, and add just this: Your rifle's chamber is a good gauge. Make your first round a dummy - just case and bullet. If it chambers easily, you're setup is fine. Then use your (impact) Bullet Puller to remove the bullet . . . a little cotton or tissue paper in the bottom will stop the bullet's tip from being damaged after it flies out of the case. The case can be reused as is most times, but you can neck size it or FL size it if you wish.

You do have a bullet puller, right ?

If the cartridge doesn't chamber smoothly, pull it apart and make the necessary adjustments. Did I mention you need a bullet puller lol ?

[cephas]

Paper clip for brass inspection. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...spot-problems/
Why it's on my mind: http://forum.pafoa.org/showthread.php?t=308087

[Tmygun]

Paper clip for brass inspection. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...spot-problems/
Why it's on my mind: http://forum.pafoa.org/showthread.php?t=308087

Case separation is usually due to excessive headspace, which can be a rifle problem, or a reloader problem, caused by oversizing your brass. Twoboxer gave good advice on this. The only time I full length size brass is for auto-loaders, like an M1 Garand. It can also happen in rifles with very sloppy chambers, like some Lee Enfields. You won't get many reloads (compared to Mausers, 03 Springfields, etc.) out of a Lee Enfield, though some give more than others, depending on the chamber. I could usually see the shiny ring form on the 303 brass before using a paper clip and tossed them. The paper clip does come in handy if you suspect, but can't see any outward evidence of, an incipient case separation. But most of the time the brass was worn out in other ways. Most of my brass would split at the neck, or the primer pockets would get loose after many firings, and then I'd toss them out. Neck splits can happen from brittle brass or work hardened (reloaded and fired many times) brass. That can be remedied by annealing the case necks. But brass was plentiful back then and I never really bothered much, except for the harder to find calibers that I wanted to get maximum life out of.
Everyone is giving you good advice here.

[ianb1116]

Everyone else hit most of the good points. However, I will add that I think every reloader should have a powder trickler. The good .30-06 powders are often stick powders in shape and thus make metering an enormous bitch. With anything but ball powder (which will also work in .30-06) I normally throw under the charge weight and trickle up to the desired charge. It slows things down (which may be good considering the $/rnd) but certainly gives you a more accurate end result.

[762xIan]

I don't see the need for a case length/headspace gauge.

I use them mainly for .30-06 and .308....Then again I am reloading for many rifles (semi-autos) in both calibers (garands, Fals, 1919 etc...) so a case gauge is a must. Easier/ faster than using calipers on every case, considering I am usually processing hundreds at a time. I check them all after resizing to see if I need to do any trimming. It's also a fast way to initially set your dies and even determine a rifles actual headspace.

I have been using the Lee system for mass trimming, so far they have been accurate and consistent. I have a Lyman as well.

Chamfer and debur, I like the Lyman hand tool.

[Gunowner99]

Holy crow, maybe I should rethink. Getting way too complex, thought I could load like I would 223 except it's 30-06.

[wanneroo]

Case gauge all the way. It's $20, it's another data point, it's another way to check your work quickly.