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Thread: My finished tack driver project
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August 25th, 2008, 06:16 PM #1Member
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My finished tack driver project
It arrived today. I finally got everything mounted and put together. Savage model 10FLP in .308
I tried to get a pic of the reticle, but this is the best I could do --
This seems to be a popular type pic...too bad that's not a 100 lol
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August 25th, 2008, 06:25 PM #2
Re: My finished tack driver project
Nice rifle! When are you going to sight it in?
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August 25th, 2008, 06:27 PM #3
Re: My finished tack driver project
Looks good buddy, let us know how it shoots. I've always thought through the scope pics are pretty hard to get with a digital. I can do it with my slr camera just fine. Do you have your scope mounted level? It looks like it might have a slight cant, but it could be from just the way it's sitting on the bipod for the picture. Make sure that if you want to really see what the rifle is capable of, don't get cheap on the ammo, or you won't know. Take care and enjoy your new rifle, and let us know if it's a "tack driver".
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August 25th, 2008, 06:54 PM #4
Re: My finished tack driver project
Lefty....kick ass! Looks sharp. Where'd you get it from and how much, if you don't mind me asking. I want my first bolt gun purchase to be a lefty.
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August 25th, 2008, 06:55 PM #5Member
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Re: My finished tack driver project
Will probably be in 2 weeks. I wont have a chance to get to the range until then. Gotta break in the barrel too.
WEEEELLLLLL... i dont know about the scope. I had low rings, mounted it, went to put the scope on, and the objective was touching the barrel. The scope wouldn't even sit all the way down in the front ring with the lens cap on. So i took the low rings off, drove out to gander mountain, and picked up some medium rings. It doesn't touch now. I did notice that the rear base is a little higher than the front, but when I was at Gander, i looked at a couple of other rifles and they were all the same it seemed.
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August 25th, 2008, 06:56 PM #6Member
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Re: My finished tack driver project
www.budsgunshop.com has a ton of left handed rifles to choose from. Just go to that page, and on the left side, click lefty. This one runs 535. They have a 110 for cheaper than that though, and some remmingtons for around 700 i think.
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August 25th, 2008, 07:22 PM #7
Re: My finished tack driver project
I hate to be the one to tell you this, but, they should be the same hieght. I looked closer at your first pic and it seems the rear sight ring is thicker under the ring than that of the front one. Maybe you could call GM and ask them to check if the rings in the other packages appear that way to, or just go back out and check for yourself. The tube of the scope should be parallel to the barrel and action. A quick check with say a phone book, take a hunk of pages until they just slip under the scope near the rear ring, and see if that same amount slips under near the front ring. An inside verneir caliper would be better, but I don't know if you have something like that. Good luck.
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August 25th, 2008, 07:41 PM #8Member
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Re: My finished tack driver project
The rings are the same height. It's the bases that are higher/lower. The rear is higher than the front, and all of the rifles i looked at when I was at Gander Mountain were the same. I still have the low rings. Maybe a low ring in the rear would even things out. I guess i'm just going to have to wait till I try to sight it in and shoot it to see.
Here's some pics of the bases, and you can see what I mean about the rear being higher. I bought the bases made for this gun, and put the right one on the rear. Maybe someone else with the same rifle can chime in?
Front base -
Rear base -
Both bases -
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August 25th, 2008, 07:52 PM #9
Re: My finished tack driver project
Bases aren't always level, you will sometimes see different. Either way, typically, you will not see the taller base in the rear. You will sometimes see bases that are offset, in order to get extra elevation for a particular scope. The tactical guys like to just use a 20moa base, but some hunters don't like to do this and prefer something like what you have on your rifle. Either way, the taller base being in the rear will REDUCE the amount of adjustment you can make. I wasn't actually talking about the scope bases being different heights, but the crosshairs being "canted" to one side. A kind of "do-it-yourself" way that does not require anything fancy or even bubble levels is to do this.
Set up a plumb line, something heavy hanging from a string. Then back up a ways, and shoulder your rifle properly and comfortably and look through the scope at the string. The verticle line of the reticle should be perfectly in line with the plumb line. If it is not, then the scope is mounted with a slight cant. Although this doesn't seem like a big deal, but the bullets will always hit low and right of where they "should". As distance increases, the amount that the bullets hit low and right will also increase, and with a significant cant, it can be quite alot. Sometimes you'll see the long range guys with levels mounted on their scope bases or rails, this is to make sure the rifle isn't canted. There are also some scopes that come with internal bubble levels, and systems that are currently being patent that have a light system that tells you if the scope is level or not. Anyway, just something to look at and ensure that your rifle is set up properly. It could be that that's the way Savage has their rifles set up, with the rear base taller, I'm not sure.Last edited by Tomcat088; August 25th, 2008 at 07:54 PM.
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August 25th, 2008, 07:54 PM #10
Re: My finished tack driver project
I would expect the rear base to be slightly higher than the front. If the scope was perfectly parallel to the rifle bore in the vertical plane the bullet trajectory would never intersect with the optical sight.
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