Refurbishing a S&W 638-2 Airweight and Trigger Job

[Gunsnwater]

Gas ring was moved to cylinder. Not sure about your model, but most likely that's why it's "missing". Now you disassembled the ejector rod right and rolled every thing on a glass mirror to check for straight? Center pin could be bent or like in my other post just small groove where it enters the recoil shield hole or (I left this out) a bur or small dimple on the very end of the rod from the pin in the barrel lug. I used a dremel to polish ( buffing wheel and compound) . This removed all small marks that looked like nothing, but it solved the sticky action releasing the cylinder. To be clear, this was not swinging the cylinder out but rather pushing on the thumb piece to unlock the cylinder. In one position only no sticking, all the others were sticking to one degree or another. If its swinging out of cylinder that sticks you must be sure the center rod clears the hole and is flush with outside ejector rod so that lug pin isn't hitting and the cylinder pin is out.

[Fudmottin]

Hmm. Another part on the schematic that doesn't go on my gun? Wasted money ordering it then .

The parts that go into the cylinder are out and apart and can be put back together again. Hopefully this means I've done that bit of work correctly. I don't have a mirror to roll things on. I do have a granite counter though. It is flat (and polished to mirror finish). I tested for straightness rolling on that. I did not spot any problems. I'll take a closer look at the ejector rod.

The problem is indeed with the cylinder sticking when I'm trying to open it. One chamber allows me to swing the cylinder out with a light push from my index finger while at the same time using my thumb to push the button forward (holding in right hand, obviously). The other four snag so I can't do that. I need to use a bit more force. I've linked to a YouTube video where I show the problem earlier in this thread.

I've also just put up a YouTube video showing the cylinder disassembled. I'm shaking the camera (iPhone) quite a bit. Sometimes I was looking at the parts I was talking about rather than the screen on the iPhone to make sure I had them in frame! Oh well.

This is the video I just put up: https://youtu.be/PcvN1xHMOdI
This very short video shows me using the crane alignment tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH5P0drs3TU
This is the video I did on the cylinder hangup so you don't have to go hunting for it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGVxn62cYqo

[Fudmottin]

It looks like you called it, Gunsnwater.

The part I thought was missing appeared to have a place to go in the cylinder. It turns out there is a part on the crane that fits into that space. Brownells doesn't have a "cancel order" button on their order history. It does let you do returns. I tried that option. Hopefully I don't receive the parts only to have to send them back again.

I did slightly scratch up the screw on part of the ejector rod . I put a few scuff marks on the underside of the barrel too. Cowboy gun smithing at its finest.

The current status of my 638 now is that it is functioning flawlessly. I can use my right thumb to press the cylinder release forward and my right index finger to open the cylinder for all chambers. So the polishing work (and a tiny bit of grinding *cringe*) did the job. Safety check and functionality testing passed. I just need to get good with shooting it now.

This leaves me with three things I would like to do with the gun.

* Some of the MIM parts like the hammer have rust on them. That stuff needs to be cleaned (or the parts replaced with stainless steel ones if that is an option) and rust proofed. The latter presumably requires re-bluing the parts. I hope that doesn't effect any polishing I did when I installed the trigger spring kit.

* I would like to replace the factory grip with a wood or horn grip. Something nice looking that fits my hand. Recommendations for after market grips would be welcome.

* This is a tough one. I would like to have the gun repainted (or however it is treated). This could be just the frame to match it to the color of the steel parts or go with an entirely different color scheme. I haven't decided yet, so I have time to learn how Smith and Wesson finishes their aluminum frame Airweight revolvers. Lack of coloration on the inside of the frame leads me to believe it is not some sort of electroplating process. But I could be wrong. I was told that the finish is nickel. Not sure how it comes out looking like that.

[Gunsnwater]

638 is stainless and aluminum. The aluminum is like an automotive paint with a clear coat. Its tough but not invincible.

Use flitz polishing paste and an old rag on the mim rust. Revolver parts get fitted so not every part in the action is going to drop in. Not saying you don't sometimes get lucky, just don't count on it.

Factory can do refinishing.

Learning your gun and how it works is fun. Always buy the correct tools as it keeps the fun in and helps protect the finish.

Stainless steel rusts, it just takes longer. Well lets say gun grades of stainless steel will rust. They treat the surface with a mild acid to desolve the surface iron and leave the nickel that oxidizes a thin layer and protects from rust. Steel wool can wreck this protection and imbed iron. Just a word to the wise.

Look on ebay for grips. It shows you lots of options. For carry I like crimson trace laser grips but for looks wood and horn are nice.

[Fudmottin]

Learning how the gun works is fun! You got that right. Dealing with the cylinder hangup and also doing a trigger job has been both rewarding and frustrating. The frustration comes from the difficulty working out what was snagging the cylinder. I've got a video of it working on YouTube now. Yes, I'm in it.

https://youtu.be/AW9T_xHDi8U

I had the frame stripped bare with the one exception of the barrel lug. I don't have the punch to get the retaining pin out and I've not had occasion to. I'm getting to know my way around that gun. Each spring. Each moving part.

The crimson trace grips are cool and rather expensive. I've got them on my Amazon wish list. My N-Frame (629 .44 Magnum) came with rosewood grips. They are very nice to look at and comfortable to shoot with. It's got a 3" barrel, so I guess it almost qualifies as a snubbie. It can also double as a boat anchor, club, and a means of holding an elephant in place by tying it around its ankle.

I can apply automotive paint. I wouldn't mind doing the barrel and crane too. The cylinder I will leave in its natural state. My only concern with attempting the barrel is the heat from shot to shot. If it's not an issue, then I just need the right primer. I want my paint job to be as good as Smith & Wesson's. I'm settling on a theme. Have you seen the Vincent van Gogh painting, "The Starry Night"? Imagery from that painting was used in the Doctor Who episode "Vincent and The Doctor". The blue I would like to use is TARDIS blue. It has an actual Pantone color designation: 2955C. I like the blue and would like to swirl in titanium dioxide white (or some other shade of white) with the blue in the fashion of The Starry Night painting. Then a good clear coat to protect that. I have an air compressor, so air spraying a custom color is not an issue. I'm not entirely sure how to get the original paint off. I do know some harsh chemicals like xylene that will eat paint.

On the topic of gun finishes, I once laid eyes on a pair of Colt Pythons in the most beautiful milky blue color. I swear they were too beautiful to shoot. Unfortunately the owner wanted $1,200 a piece for them. One of those in a presentation case would have been very nice to own.

[Fudmottin]

Unsurprisingly, painting a gun turns out to be a big deal. At least it does if you want to do it right. And I do.

So to start, grips and color:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9BJQIE
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/f...ridgeway-blue/

I'm hoping that in pictures the color will look like the shade of blue I really wanted. This isn't quite like going to the paint section of Lowes to have your own color mixed for you. I'm keeping it simple for now. I'll just do a monotone. Actually, I expect the steel and aluminum will show slightly different colors though the coating.

Other sundries include needing to sand blast as preparation for new paint. The coating has to go on bare metal. Off to Harbor Freight. At least I already have an air compressor.

If this works out, I'll do my stainless steel finished Model 629 .44 Magnum as well. I'll keep the grips I have on that. No trigger job needed as it is out of the box with a vastly superior trigger to the J-Frame. It also contains MIM parts, so I probably have some light rust in there to take care of.

[Gunsnwater]

638-2 barrel is not painted. It's stainless steel as is cylinder. J frames in aluminum have a decent chance at cracking if you unscrew the barrel. Painting the frame and barrel, I don't know. I'd think the stainless steel might require a different primer. I'd be worried about adhesion. Cerakote would probibly be the best for durability. That or trip to smih and Wesson. Yes I understand your desire to do it yourself. Cerakote requires bead blast and oven. Honest wear isn't hideous. If you are going to carry it, I would leave it as is. Holster wear is unavoidable. Sweat pitting of the metal will happen in extreamly hot weather. Under grips and such. I like the 640 for carry as its all stainless steel, the extra weight and 357 capability is the cherry on top. The lightweights are more comfortable but you have to relax a bit on the finish as it will show wear quicker.

If your heart is set on the paint job, it is your gun after all. Go for it.

The Jerry kunhanson books on smith and wessons are great resources. https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&pag...y%20Kuhnhausen

[Fudmottin]

I'm never going to remove the barrel from the frame. I don't have the tools, so I would have to send it to Smith & Wesson. If I were to do that, I would want a slightly longer barrel which would render my holster useless. Priorities? Hah!

I've started looking into Cerakote. Looks like very interesting stuff. They even have a color that is close to what I want. So if I coat it, the barrel gets done too, sand blasting and all. I'm still undecided on the cylinder. I'm beginning to lean strongly on having it coated as well. The company that makes Cerakote claims that SS is a surface it will work on. The equipment required to apply the Cerakote in accordance with the instructions is not a cheap prospect for sure. Harbor Freight has a sand blasting box that is affordable if you won't be using it on a daily basis. Curing the H grade coatings can be done in a kitchen oven.

As far as weight and bulk go, they have begun to matter to me. I used to carry a Glock 30 all the time. But then I started to leave it at home. For a long while, my alternative carries were a Walther PPK/S (Interarms made in USA) in SS finish or the 638. Usually it was the PPK/S due to capacity. A month or so back, I bought a Ruger LC9s Pro. It is about the same size as the PPK/S, same capacity, and weighs a bit less. It also shoots 9x19mm +P vs the .380 ACP of the PPK/S.

None of what I've mentioned (except for the Glock 30) will match the .357 Magnum load. The Glock is reliable. But it is a brick. Leaving it at home does me no good. I would probably be better off with the 640 if I stuck to revolvers. I wonder if I can get that in a 3" barrel? As listed by S&W, it's not cheap. It's like a grown up 642. I would prefer the 649. I know that SA mode is not used in self defense. However, I like it for the longer shots and the option of being there. I know the trigger acts as a bit of a lint trap. Compressed air deals with that.

I should probably get a 649 from the Performance Center already configured to my desires. It's already expensive. Some day. I would not be surprised if I eventually decide that I don't trust semi-autos at all and want a J-Frame revolver as my every day carry.

There is another thing about Cerakote. It may provide good rust protection for MIM parts. That is also something to consider. It's not supposed to affect the dimensions. I imagine that is due to skill of application. Obviously the single action shelf on the hammer and trigger are rather tight tolerance parts. The DA sear just needs to be smooth. Add the rebound slide into the mix and they are the only parts I would bother with.

Anyway, just by you mentioning the 640, I have now got the 649 on my wish list.

[Xringshooter]

I sent you a PM about Cerakote that I hope will help you out. Just remember that prepping is the most important part of doing any coating on a firearm (just like painting a car, prep, prep prep makes for the best job).

[Fudmottin]

I sent you a PM about Cerakote that I hope will help you out. Just remember that prepping is the most important part of doing any coating on a firearm (just like painting a car, prep, prep prep makes for the best job).

Got it and replied. I've had to order some parts for application. They should be arriving over the next week. Same for prep. I've got acetone. I'll probably buy another gallon at Lowes since it looks like I'll need to use a lot of it for good soaking. I also have several aerosol cans of brake/contact cleaner. I've also ordered a punch kit, so complete and total stripping of the frame (except for the barrel which will be coated as well) will be possible.

I've also noticed on YouTube videos of people doing DIY coating without wearing a respirator. I've ordered one of those as well. They must be nuts risking inhaling that stuff. I've read the MSDS. One guy at least had a dust mask on. I know enough about organics and fine particles to know that doesn't do much good at all.

As this is a used gun that is still in production and that I have done some home smithing on, I suspect it isn't worth much. It should be good practice for more valuable guns should I care to coat those as well.