Springfield model '73 (trap door) question

[Bang]

I've had this 1888 round bayonet rifle for quite a while, obtained from a friend whose father had it for eons, so I am pretty confident that it is not a Frankenrifle.
Everything is correct except the rifle bears 1891 manufacture serial number and the stock has an 1890 cartouche. I'm wondering if anyone has information on manufacturing overlaps (rifle made in 1891 and placed in a stock which has been ready since 1890). I guess the answer lies in just what does the cartouche mean. I believe it means a final inspection of the entire assembly. If that is the case, then the stock is "wrong"...although I'd assume it would not be out of the ordinary for a company armorer to replace a damaged stock with another in the field. Opinions? And thanks

[bamboomaster]

I've had this 1888 round bayonet rifle for quite a while, obtained from a friend whose father had it for eons, so I am pretty confident that it is not a Frankenrifle.
Everything is correct except the rifle bears 1891 manufacture serial number and the stock has an 1890 cartouche. I'm wondering if anyone has information on manufacturing overlaps (rifle made in 1891 and placed in a stock which has been ready since 1890). I guess the answer lies in just what does the cartouche mean. I believe it means a final inspection of the entire assembly. If that is the case, then the stock is "wrong"...although I'd assume it would not be out of the ordinary for a company armorer to replace a damaged stock with another in the field. Opinions? And thanks

As you probably already know, the cartouche of "SWP" and the 1890 date is Samuel W. Porter.

From page 184:

"The mark included the initials of the master armorer in italic letters with the year of inspection," and "was stamped into the wood using a metal die after final inspection of the completed weapon."

A few more blurbs from Poyer's "The .45-70 Springfield" 4th Edition:

From page 186:

"The cartouche is a rectangular box with clipped corners, enclosing the script initials "SWP" (Samuel W. Porter) and the year of inspection. "SWP" cartouches are found on all .45-70 Springfields from circa serial #100,000 to the end of production."

"NOTE: The cartouche date should always be the same or earlier than the date of manufacture as indicated by the serial number, never later. Receiver serial numbers will run ahead of cartouche dates by up to 15,000 to 22,500 numbers between 1877 and 1887, and by lesser amounts to 1891. This was due to the complications of 1) fiscal year reporting, 2) the practice of keeping up to three months stock of parts in inventory, 3) the refurbishing of 22,300 early rifles and carbines in 1881-1882 with new receivers (marked with a star). Circa 1890, some earlier serial-numbered receivers were taken from storage to build new rifles but the stock cartouches will show the actual year of manufacture."

This might explain what you seem to suggest as a dating difference between the final inspection cartouche on the stock and the receiver number (From page 230):

2) Receivers were manufactured in batches, not in a continuous stream. Arms also were not assembled in a continuous stream. Repairs and refurbishment of arms also required manpower, materials and other resources, especially in years like 1881 and 1882 when funding was low or non-existent for the manufacture of new arms.

3) Receivers were serial-numbered after final polishing and annealing but before heat-treating, case-hardening and inspection. Heat-treating is a tricky business and losses due to warping, fracturing and other problems probably accounted for a few thousand lost over the twenty-year production period. It is not clear whether or not those serial numbers were reused when a receiver was scrapped during the manufacturing process, but probably not.

4) Finished receivers were placed into inventory and drawn out as needed by the assemblers. Because they were distributed to assembly stations - on a daily basis during periods when arms were being assembled - the arms were not built in sequence by serial numbers. Lists of serial-numbered arms attached to shipping crates bear this out as they always show a mix of numbers." in the chart above.

And some really good advice on page 233:

"Do not reject a .45-70 Springfield because serial number and cartouche date do not agree. Check the serial number to make certain that the discrepancy conforms to the year. Then decide if the firearm is "as manufactured" using the information in this book."

For the years in question (1890 and 1891), here is the production information for the M1888 Ramrod Bayonet Rifles, the ending serial number reported to the Army and Congress in annual reports by fiscal year (July 1 to June 30), and the "as adjusted" serial numbers reflecting what was written above:

1890:

Qty produced: 7,480
End of year SN: 502,983
As adjusted SN: 510,000

1891:

Qty produced: 30,461
End of year SN: 534,124
As adjusted SN: 534124

Hope this information helps and is not another case of information overload...

Umm, depending how the stock looks, if your gonna clean that stock (and not lose any collectible value in the process):

1. Mix a small quantity of 1/3 raw linseed oil and 2/3 odorless mineral spirits. While wearing nitrile (or other suitable) disposable gloves, dip a small square (3x3" or 4x4") of burlap into the mix and rub into the wood. After 15 minutes, remove any excess that hasn't been absorbed with a clean piece of burlap and let dry for a day or two. I usually repeat the process two or three times over a week using new pieces of burlap for each application. The mineral spirits cleans the dirt off the stock without affecting finish and the raw linseed oil is slowly absorbed into the wood. Using burlap instead of a cloth rag avoids leaving micro fibers embedded in the wood.

2. After a week of cleaning, it's OK to apply 100% raw linseed oil, rubbing it 100 times in each area of application. The heat produced by that rubbing helps promote absorption. After 30 minutes, remove any excess and let dry completely for two or three days (weather and temperature dependent). Repeat two or three times over the next couple of weeks until you're satisfied.

I know people who have used step #2 20x on the same rifle stock (and it needed it). You'll be the judge of what works on yours. Never ever sand between coats and don't rush the drying time.

Do something else productive, like reloading?

[Bang]

Bamboomaster, thank you very much for taking the time and interest in providing this information. Although page 186 seems contradict page 184, (final inspection doesn't make sense if the stock sat waiting for assembly)), I understand the overview and am very happy with your information. I don't plan to sell the piece but I want to be able to tell my inheriting son factual information.

The wood is quite dark and I won't be doing anything to it. The cartouche is a bit faint, as is the encircled P. Why they would stamp it right where a carrier would be grasping with his thumb and fingers I guess is typical of Army Intelligence. Speaking of that, back at the left side of the butt just ahead of the plate is a stamped 13...nothing else. I don't know what outfit or rack number that designates.

I recently purchased the digital version of Wolf's book, but from what you posted, I think I should have bought Poyer's.

I have reloaded (smokeless) for this rifle in the past, and am about to get back into it. I've ordered some things to refine the process. Recent research has me in a better position to more knowledgeably address the unique considerations involved. I may eventually try some GOEXX too. I have quite a bit of soft lead but no mold, furnace or even a ladle anymore...my son has all of that so I have access. I'm kind of leaning toward paper patching, so I ordered various sizes of expanders.

Thanks again! :-)

[bamboomaster]

I have reloaded (smokeless) for this rifle in the past, and am about to get back into it. I've ordered some things to refine the process. Recent research has me in a better position to more knowledgeably address the unique considerations involved. I may eventually try some GOEXX too. I have quite a bit of soft lead but no mold, furnace or even a ladle anymore...my son has all of that so I have access. I'm kind of leaning toward paper patching, so I ordered various sizes of expanders.

Thanks again! :-)

Bang, just a suggestion or two on reloading:

1. Since 500 grain bullets are hard to find, why not consider 405's? They're available in boxes of 250 from here: https://www.kingshooters.com/4570-40...p-p-25585.html for $51.89 per box (around $.21 each). One box ought to last you a season or two. Just seat them to the top of the crimp groove so you have about a thumbnail of the crimp groove exposed. I always use a light crimp, some use none in a single shot rifle. The 405's are also sized .459, and the 300's are sized .458.

2. Unique is not a position sensitive powder and 11.7 grains +/- is what I throw from a Dillon 550B using the small powder bar. I did sand the inside of the powder funnel (particularly the beginning of the funnel and throat with 600 grit and then 1000 grit wet sandpaper (although I didn't use anything to wet it). Just wrap a small piece around a chopstick of appropriate size or the tip of a pencil and have at it. A 300 grain round will go out at around 1150 fps and a 405 grain round about 900 fps. Very low pressure round - you can fire them all day (assuming your rifle is mechanically OK and safe to fire these rounds) with virtually little or no recoil.

3. Blackpowder is fine too, but more care is required while reloading (measure and throw the charges individually - do NOT use the powder reservoir on a press). I use Swiss 1.5F. Just be sure there is no space between the top of the powder and the base of the bullet. While there is obviously more smoke, there is substantially more recoil than the Unique load.

Lyman's 2nd Edition "Black Powder Handbook & Loading Manual" suggests the following loads (by volume equivalent, not weight):

Goex FFg: 60.0 grains, velocity 1182fps, pressure 10,500

Elephant FFg: 60..0 grains, velocity 1174 fps, pressure 7,900

Goex Cartridge: 60.0 grains, velocity 1185 fps, pressure 10,200

Pyrodex RS: 60.0 grains, velocity 1216 fps, pressure 15,500

Pyrodex Select: 60.0 grains, velocity 1138fps, pressure 10,900

If your rifle with the Buffington rear sight shoots high, there's a reason for this and it ain't you. The battlefield zero is 266 yds (with a 500 gr bullet). So depending on the distance (and the powder throw and the bullet weight), you may have to make aiming adjustments once you find where the first few rounds print.

Nothing like getting ready for warmer spring weather, eh?

[Bang]

Thanks. I just ordered the Poyer book, 5th edition. I had been loading with 23 gr of 4759 with dacron. Sadly, it is no longer made. happily, I still have a pound and a half. There are other loads down around 17,000 CUP yielding 1350fps to regulate to the Buffington at 260 yards.. I had planned on using 405s but I want hollow base soft lead. My rifle slugs to .463.

10-4 on the Buffington. The poor soldiers who had no training didn't know to aim low. It is said that the Indians would approach to 20 yards, knowing they wouldn't be hit. I saw why on the range. May be a slight exaggeration, but it's a WTF?? the first time out..