Reloading Question - advice needed

[pokerguy005]

I just started getting into reloading. I am getting into competition shooting and figured it would be easier and more cost-effective to reload my own ammo. I purchased a lee classic turret press, am using titegroup, CCI primers and am loading Rainier Ballistics 147 Copper plated flat nose bullets. Had a friend who reloads 9mm and he recommended using titegroup and loading 3.2 grains with an oal of 1.150". Turns out the length was a bit long and couldn't fit in my mags. Not a problem, loaded them a bit shorter and they worked fine. Had a few light primer strikes and have ordered a skeletonized striker. I should mention I am using a Glock 34. Put a competition spring kit in it with a 3 pound striker spring....changed to the 6 pound striker spring and the light strikes have gone away. So the story starts now, based on the lee manual for using my powder and bullet weight tells me to use the smallest disk (.30) to get near the grains I need. It basically throws 3.5 grains and I want to load 3.2-3.3 grains. I don't know if there is any remedy for this. So I talked to my buddy and he uses the Lee setup and he uses CFE pistol powder loaded with 3.8 grains. This uses the smallest disk (.30). I bought CFE and it is very consistently throwing a 3.8 grain charge. Loaded about 20 and took to the range. What a nightmare, I couldn't get consecutive shots to cycle...I was getting failures to eject, failures to feed, stove pipes, double feeds. So I figured the load was too light to adequately make the gun function correctly, so I went home and loaded a bunch to 4.0 grains and went back to the range, same issues, could not get 2 consecutive shots to cycle correctly and same malfunctions. The manual says don't load more than 4.2 grains for the bullet weight and powder I am using. I have attached a picture of the malfunction I was getting most....I recently just polished the feed ramp on my G34 as well. I would appreciate any advice, load recipes you use for 147 flat nose bullets. I have been happy with titegroup, however I literally have to dump out some powder to get the loads I want. If you have a favorite powder I would love to hear it. I am going to be shooting USPSA so I would rather not have it loaded to the max, and would prefer a soft shooting recipe that would still make power factor. Again I am a newb so the more information the better. Thanks.

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[fotomaniac]

Sounds like you need to get a lighter recoil spring setup. Not sure about Glocks, but most I know use 1911 style pistols as they are very convenient for tuning in your load versus gun setup. Some important things to note:

If you plan on continuing your journey into reloading you will find the following items useful:
Dial caliper, case gauges for each caliber, digital scale and of course a comprehensive reloading guidebook.

OAL and taper crimp is important. A case gauge will keep you honest here, and you may wish to pull the barrel once in a while and do a plunk test to double check that your rounds chamber properly.

Btw Lee makes an adjustable charge bar which replaces the disks and will give you more precise control.

[pokerguy005]

I actually thought about getting a lighter recoil spring...my next purchase. I probably could have mentioned I have the calipers, scale and reloading books...I literally weighed every bullet I loaded and calipered them as well.

[wanneroo]

To me it's mandatory to use a case gauge. I check every single round.

I see guys laugh about using a case gauge and then every stage they shoot they are racking rounds out of their guns or clearing malfunctions. Um ok...

Some people use their barrels and that's fine to a point but a case gauge gives you more exact detail on where you are going wrong.

I would do that first. If your rounds fit the gauge then it is likely something you have done with your gun.

Also does the gun work with regular factory 9mm?

Personally I have known some dudes that had modded their Glocks and end up with reliability issues. Also polishing your feed ramp might create more drag for rounds going into the chamber from what I have heard.

It could be the powder as well. If Titegroup worked previously why not continue to use it?

[fotomaniac]

That's a good start. Bullets are gonna vary some. You're probably gonna require that adjustable charge bar. It's the best way to go. The disks are ok...but limited. I actually started with the Lee and moved onto a Dillon once I learned what I really wanted in a load etc. Lee is a great company, great CS, but the machine was a bit too wonky for my taste. I still use it for some things tho because I have a ton of doodads for it.

If you're stove piping, or failing to lock back after the last round, you need to look at your recoil springs, and load. If you are getting rounds stuck trying to get into battery, you may need to look at your OAL. ( too long etc.). If you're not going into full lockup, check the crimp. You should have a taper crimp...not too tight..just enough to get into the breech smoothly, but enough that the rounds won't set back on recoil.

Wanneroo is dead on about using case gauges...also different powder have different characteristics. Try a few. Some burn fast, some slow. I found W231, Titegroup worked nicely for my 9mm. Bullseye, power pistol for .45... And WST, w231 too. Also look through the reloading forums out there. Plenty of folks are happy to help.

[pokerguy005]

Titegroup did work well, but like I said the lee disk that I use to measure my powder drops 3.5 grains and it is the smallest one I can use, so I need to dump some powder out of each case...takes a lot of time and wanted to make it easier ....good idea about the case gauge...I will look into that

[pokerguy005]

Thanks, good info.

[wanneroo]

Titegroup did work well, but like I said the lee disk that I use to measure my powder drops 3.5 grains and it is the smallest one I can use, so I need to dump some powder out of each case...takes a lot of time and wanted to make it easier ....good idea about the case gauge...I will look into that

Check out some other powders when you can. I've used Unique very successfully and that is more of a fluffy powder that might work better with your setup.

[pokerguy005]

thanks...will look into it

[bartomark]

Lots of good info. Also check how far your shells are ejecting. 3-6 ft. is usually good. I play with 1911s and after I find the load I want I will change the recoil spring to get the cases to land in this area. Another way to check if your spring is too stiff is to make sure your slide consistently locks back after the last round.