My first Colt revolver.

**American1776** · March 13th, 2015, 04:11 PM

I just came across an excellent condition Colt Trooper 38 special. Only thing is it's missing the ejector rod cap (that's an easy fix). This one was sitting in a LGS, and after checking it out, I decided it needed to come with me.

I'm not a Colt expert, so any help on the details is much appreciated. From what little I know, this Trooper was made before they mounted the firing pin on the frame (it has a hammer mounted pin). I THINK that means it has the lock-work of the Python series, not the later Trooper versions.

The action is very light and smooth. I'm used to S&W and Ruger revolvers, and this trigger blows them both out of the water (even my Ruger Match Champion gets beat by this Colt).

Bluing is beautiful to look at. Now apparently checking the carry-up and timing on these OLDER Colts is a completely different procedure than the Smiths and Rugers. From what I've gathered, timing is checked by cocking the hammer and watching the bolt do various things at various times. When I check the timing like on a Ruger or Smith by pulling the trigger and waiting for the bolt to lock before the hammer falls, I get a VERY late timed gun. But when I cock the hammer slowly and watch the bolt, the bolt locks a millisecond before the hammer reaches full cock, and I've read that this is just fine.

Of course the cylinder is welded to the frame in all directions when the trigger is held back.

All in all I'm very impressed with my first Colt revolver. I'm still learning about these Colts so any advice or feedback is greatly appreciated.

**kobsw** · March 13th, 2015, 08:11 PM

ENVEY!!!!!!!!

That revolver is one of my grail guns.

Congrats,

Kobsw

**QuackXP** · March 13th, 2015, 08:36 PM

My very first firearm is is a Colt Lawman MK III that my grandfather gave me. Nice firearm although I prefer my semi autos now I still get the old girl out every once in a while.

**claudel** · March 14th, 2015, 08:13 AM

Use snap caps when you dry fire...

When I had my Mark III Lawman I read about folks breaking firing pins by dry firing on empty cylinders.

It can be tough to find parts...

**lemko** · March 14th, 2015, 01:29 PM

Nice! I had a chance to buy the .357 Magnum version of this revolver several years ago, but didn't. Kind of regret it now, but finding parts or a gunsmith who could repair one of these made me a little skittish.

**American1776** · March 14th, 2015, 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by lemko

Nice! I had a chance to buy the .357 Magnum version of this revolver several years ago, but didn't. Kind of regret it now, but finding parts or a gunsmith who could repair one of these made me a little skittish.

Yes, this is a concern that I have with THIS type of Colt. From what I've read so far, THIS version of the Trooper (before the MK III version) has the same lock work as the Python. If the gun goes out of time, finding a good gunsmith who 1) knows how to work on it and 2) has the parts that need to be handfitted is getting harder and harder as the years go on.

I do hope that since this is a 38 spl. version, the low-pressure rounds will no be liable to wear the timing and lockwork like .357 magnums would.

It would still be cool if I had a .357 version.

**Seabee CO** · March 14th, 2015, 10:57 PM

Originally Posted by American1776

Yes, this is a concern that I have with THIS type of Colt. From what I've read so far, THIS version of the Trooper (before the MK III version) has the same lock work as the Python. If the gun goes out of time, finding a good gunsmith who 1) knows how to work on it and 2) has the parts that need to be handfitted is getting harder and harder as the years go on.

I do hope that since this is a 38 spl. version, the low-pressure rounds will no be liable to wear the timing and lockwork like .357 magnums would.

It would still be cool if I had a .357 version.

While a nice revolver, it is a little bit of a stretch to say "the same lockwork" as a Python. The Colt 357 model, yes...the early Trooper, not so much. While the components may be similar, the internals were not fitted or polished to the high standard as the Python (or 357 model).

**American1776** · March 14th, 2015, 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by Seabee CO

While a nice revolver, it is a little bit of a stretch to say "the same lockwork" as a Python. The Colt 357 model, yes...the early Trooper, not so much. While the components may be similar, the internals were not fitted or polished to the high standard as the Python (or 357 model).

Thanks. I like this gun a lot.

The info about the lock work, This is what I'm trying to pin down. Does the lock work have the same design, but just not as polished? I'm asking this only because I'd like to know what sort of maintenance I might have to look into, should it develop timing issues in the future. As far as I can tell, carry-up and lock-up 'feel' a lot different from my smith & Wessons (even the real old ones).

**Seabee CO** · March 15th, 2015, 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by American1776

Thanks. I like this gun a lot.

The info about the lock work, This is what I'm trying to pin down. Does the lock work have the same design, but just not as polished? I'm asking this only because I'd like to know what sort of maintenance I might have to look into, should it develop timing issues in the future. As far as I can tell, carry-up and lock-up 'feel' a lot different from my smith & Wessons (even the real old ones).

A lot of mis information is out there about the supposed "fragility" of Colt DA lockwork. Speaking from my own experience, I have regularly shot 357 magnum ammo through my Colts with no ill effect. If you visit the Colt Forum, other members will confirm the problem is over stated. More Smith and Wesson L frames have cracked their forcing cones with 357 magnums than Pythons going out of time....and you don't hear people complaining about that. FWIW, the Forcing cone issue isn't a big deal either.

As far as maintenance, like any revolver, clean regularly and wipe down the surface. Leave the internal alone. Out of time issues, with any revolver, will be exhibited by it " spitting lead " out from the cylinder / forcing cone gap...no difference will be felt in the trigger. If you shoot a lot of lead (not jacketed) bullets (or your barrel is leaded by the previous owner) buy a Lewis Lead Remover tool and use it every 500+rounds or so. The tool is great for removing lead form the barrel, forcing cone and cylinder.

If you find you enjoy shooting the trooper...get a Python and enjoy some real revolver magic.