PSA: Please read if you own a Winchester Safe . . .

[ranchdude]

This is a long thread, but I figured since my searches for information regarding my problem landed me here, I'd add on to this with what I just learned...

I have a Winchester 10 gun safe from TSC with electronic keypad that I've owned for about a year. I have just recently replaced the battery for the first time, and that all went well, no issues at all.

Now, about a month after doing that I went to return a pistol to the safe this morning only to find that the keypad is unresponsive on the top half when it had just worked fine the night before to get my pistol out.

Well, I figured in my morning haze I had just hit a wrong button in the process of putting in my code. So after a few attempts I figured I'd just walk away from it for a while to see if it reset. Well, that didn't work. When I came back to it, it was doing exactly the same. Only the bottom two rows (7,8,9,*,0,#) of keys were responding and would "chirp" when pressed, and it was not taking a normal 6 digit entry before giving a yellow "no go" but was rather it was taking 8 digits before doing so. So of course, I couldn't enter my actual full code...

I figured I was screwed, especially after reading here what some people have go through.

I then tried disconnecting the battery and checked that the connector on the keypad was securely attached (it was), then reattached the battery. Nothing changed.

So, I disconnected the battery, then while it was disconnected I pressed several keys on the keypad just to make sure any residual charge left from the battery might be depleted. Then I reattached the battery.

All is now good, the keypad immediately came back to life. It appears the keypad or lock mechanism was in some strange programming mode and doing this procedure must have cleared it. Its not uncommon for something that runs off a battery to have a small capacitor in the circuitry to store a little reserve charge. And pressing some keys while the battery was disconnected seems to have drained that reserve charge and allowed it to reset. (at least that is my theory, and I'm sticking to it lol)

But I can at least access the safe for now. But I consider this a warning shot over the bow that it's time to replace this lock with something more dependable. Going through something like this isn't something I want to do in the middle of the night when I hear glass breaking. So I'll be going through all 10 pages here looking for the best suggestions.

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this topic, it's much appreciated.

Hope this helps someone else out there.

RD out...

[NuclearSociety]

Seriously thanks for the updates. When I am searching for obscure information for problems I have I am always so hopeful someone out there who had the same problem shared their story. Im sure that someone out there will find this useful!

[BionicMan]

Im sure that someone out there will find this useful!

Yeah, the 6-10 people that PM me every month wanting to know how to fix their broken Winchester safe, lol. Winchester outta be sponsoring me at this point.

[Parrisk]

If your lock is accepting the code but not unlocking the 1st time READ THIS!!!

Panel is "NL" and lock is RotoBolt

Just had the same issues with my Cannon from TSC.
First occasionally I thought we were mistyping the code but it would beep confirmation of correct code, still locked.
Then it because more and more frequently in a matter of a few weeks.. sometimes have to enter the code 10 or more times while shaking the handle before it would unlock.

Last night I pulled the inner door cover off and removed the lock and pad.. then to a desk. Confirmed it was accepting the code but not activating the locking mechanism. I wiggled the plug at the lock and noticed the little circuit board moved.. tried the code and bam it unlocked..

Tore the lock open and the circuit board is soldered directly to the locking motor and one of the solder bridges had cracked. Reflowed the solder and test with positive results. Tools needed Phillips screwdriver, solder iron, small pick or tiny screwdriver

1 - open safe door, then lock it while open
2 - Remove inner door cover/skin/panel whatever you want to call it
3 - remove 2 screws holding relocker plate, let relocker down
4 - remove wires from lock, remove button panel from outside of door
5 - remove 3 Phillips screws holding lock to door
6 - remove RotoBolt security tape that crosses lock box and remove Phillips screw hidden under tape
7 - carefully lift cover off, and reflow solder bridges from circuit board to motor
8 - I made a small pad out of electricians tape to place between the circuit board and the cover to prevent movement.
9 - place cover back on, using small pick to move the spring for the brass pivot shaft (small hold in cover for this purpose)
10 - replace cover, plug in panel, test the code to ensure the motor works.
11- reassemble.. test several times before putting the door back together and closing the safe.

I also called Cannon Safe 1-800-242-1055 and they are sending me a new upgraded lock and panel for free.


Still considering an Xtreme Redundant Digital/Dial lock upgrade in the near future..

Hope this helps someone else

[streaker69]

If your lock is accepting the code but not unlocking the 1st time READ THIS!!!

Panel is "NL" and lock is RotoBolt

Just had the same issues with my Cannon from TSC.
First occasionally I thought we were mistyping the code but it would beep confirmation of correct code, still locked.
Then it because more and more frequently in a matter of a few weeks.. sometimes have to enter the code 10 or more times while shaking the handle before it would unlock.

Last night I pulled the inner door cover off and removed the lock and pad.. then to a desk. Confirmed it was accepting the code but not activating the locking mechanism. I wiggled the plug at the lock and noticed the little circuit board moved.. tried the code and bam it unlocked..

Tore the lock open and the circuit board is soldered directly to the locking motor and one of the solder bridges had cracked. Reflowed the solder and test with positive results. Tools needed Phillips screwdriver, solder iron, small pick or tiny screwdriver

1 - open safe door, then lock it while open
2 - Remove inner door cover/skin/panel whatever you want to call it
3 - remove 2 screws holding relocker plate, let relocker down
4 - remove wires from lock, remove button panel from outside of door
5 - remove 3 Phillips screws holding lock to door
6 - remove RotoBolt security tape that crosses lock box and remove Phillips screw hidden under tape
7 - carefully lift cover off, and reflow solder bridges from circuit board to motor
8 - I made a small pad out of electricians tape to place between the circuit board and the cover to prevent movement.
9 - place cover back on, using small pick to move the spring for the brass pivot shaft (small hold in cover for this purpose)
10 - replace cover, plug in panel, test the code to ensure the motor works.
11- reassemble.. test several times before putting the door back together and closing the safe.

I also called Cannon Safe 1-800-242-1055 and they are sending me a new upgraded lock and panel for free.


Still considering an Xtreme Redundant Digital/Dial lock upgrade in the near future..

Hope this helps someone else

Caliphornia's devious plan is finally coming to fruition. Ban the good solder so we're forced to use the lead free solder that doesn't flow well and is known to crack easy. Next thing you know, you can't get to your guns. It wouldn't surprise me if that's the problem with a lot of these issues. Good job figuring it out.

[Parrisk]

Caliphornia's devious plan is finally coming to fruition. Ban the good solder so we're forced to use the lead free solder that doesn't flow well and is known to crack easy. Next thing you know, you can't get to your guns. It wouldn't surprise me if that's the problem with a lot of these issues. Good job figuring it out.

Funny part is the Lead Free is per the US Government.. but all the US Government DoD and Space contracts forbid lead free solder.. go figure

[streaker69]

Funny part is the Lead Free is per the US Government.. but all the US Government DoD and Space contracts forbid lead free solder.. go figure

Of course, they don't want tin whiskers on the mars lander.

[Evo8]

Hi BionicMan - this might come as a shock. My lock failed on my Winchester safe as well. Winchester is sending me a replacement lock now. The strange thing is mine is only beeping once and repeating about every 5 seconds. Can you shoot me a PM to assistance? Thank you!

[BionicMan]

Hi BionicMan - this might come as a shock. My lock failed on my Winchester safe as well. Winchester is sending me a replacement lock now. The strange thing is mine is only beeping once and repeating about every 5 seconds. Can you shoot me a PM to assistance? Thank you!

Haha, done.

[byz250f]

Bionic man...wondered if you could send me a PM on how to fix this. I emailed winchester already. I have one safe that is giving me the 3 chirps after plugging in my com...safe is about 4 years old. It gave me an issue when new and I called Winchester and they changed the com...been using the same com for 4 years and now its not working. Tried new batteries...no luck. Very frustrating. Have a few christmas gifts in there that Im hoping I can get out.