Ruger SRH wolff spring pack.

**tollster** · January 27th, 2015, 09:09 PM

I got the Wolff spring pack for my SRH today, looking for suggestions on which soring rates to use, and not use? Maybe ya'll have some input on some other things I can do while I have it apart.

I found a few link that may help,

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tCHGH2qqV4

**cephas** · January 28th, 2015, 07:08 AM

Put them in an older SP .22 last summer. Wrote about it here: http://forum.pafoa.org/gunsmithing-4...igger-job.html
"Some things I discovered. The stock hammer mainspring is around 14# while the replacements were 8, 10 and 12#. With the limited ammo I had I found the 8 & 10# would fire federals reliably. Had to go to 12# to fire the remingtons every time.
I did not personally care for the trigger reset with the lighter replacement latch spring so I kept it stock. As noted on the triggerjob site the trigger guard latch hole was rough and in need of cleaning out. Step 23.
Any plunger with a spring on it can fly into the black hole of the workshop. Invented new cuss words. However Ruger sent me a new cylinder plunger and spring at no cost. Learned to replace them in large freezer bag.
It was not in need of trigger shims as I originally thought, probably due to my measuring skills, but the hammer shims were well worth the effort."

**tollster** · January 28th, 2015, 04:09 PM

Everything went well, I bypassed the shims as mine felt tight left to right. I did find some areas I had to sand along the hammer edges, and I had to remove the scope to get the hammer out.

I put in the 10 LB. trigger return spring, and am going to try the 12 LB. Hammer spring, hopefully I won't have a light strike issue, but it is the easiest of all the springs to get too if I have to swap it back to the original.

I took my time and polished all the surfaces mentioned in the Ruger SP 101 link, then paid close attention to other contact areas. I have a few years on mine, so I could readily see the areas of wear to help we identify any additional areas I wanted to dress.

It feels much better in double action, smooth, and single action breaks crisp with little effort.

The dremel come in handy, but some areas required a feather touch with light sand paper.. I have used my dremel for years on a lot of various stuff, its invaluable around the shop. Most of the use came in fabricating and polishing bike parts to fit on my Fatboy, I am on my 3rd set of brushes..LOL